Jump to content

Wideband Sensor


moog5050

Recommended Posts

I was planning on installing a wideband today for later tuning. Rather than replacing the o2 sensor, I was going to weld in another bung to screw in the wideband sensor. I read that it should be installed at least 24" downstream from the block, but before the cat. I have dynatech LTs with cats. Does this mean I should be welding the bung on the header right before it bolts to the cat? Would it be a problem if I just install after the cat? I have read others do that, but does the cat alter the reading? Thanks for your help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The cat will alter the reading like crazy. That's its job, and if you're going to be doing any tuning off of what the wideband reads then even the smallest degree away from accurate will affect your truck. I would go about 6 inches in front of the cat (if you have room), that way you have plenty of space to change them out (or remove them! :devil:) further on down the road.

 

And I believe welding a new bung for the wideband is standard procedure, I think they're bigger than narrowband 02s... :thumbs:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually, I have both an innovate lc1 and an lm1. The lc1 is hardwired a few inches past the stock 02 and infront of the driver side cat, and I have also hooked up the lm1 at the tailpipe with an exhaust clamp and the readings from the two are with in a tenth of each other and both reading at the same frequency. In other words they both act the same. the only diffrence is that when the lc1 reads say 11.2 the lm1 will read 11.3. The only time that the wideband at the past a cat will read differently is when the cats have air injection to help with the burn process, but our truck don't have air injection for the cats.

 

This is just my observation.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually, I have both an innovate lc1 and an lm1. The lc1 is hardwired a few inches past the stock 02 and infront of the driver side cat, and I have also hooked up the lm1 at the tailpipe with an exhaust clamp and the readings from the two are with in a tenth of each other and both reading at the same frequency. In other words they both act the same. the only diffrence is that when the lc1 reads say 11.2 the lm1 will read 11.3. The only time that the wideband at the past a cat will read differently is when the cats have air injection to help with the burn process, but our truck don't have air injection for the cats.

 

This is just my observation.

 

I agree with Reynaldo. Having used the tailpipe hookup for a number of vehicles on the dyno, I haven't had any problems, especially in richer than stoich conditions.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with Reynaldo. Having used the tailpipe hookup for a number of vehicles on the dyno, I haven't had any problems, especially in richer than stoich conditions.

 

 

From my experience (which is once), when I was doing the dyno pull for my dually, I had one pre-cat and at the exit and the reading was .4 off at WOT and .2 off at idle... All the equipment/sensors were good and the motor and exhaust were brand new (not even 100 miles on the motor or cats). Maybe that had something to do with why they were so different... But even .1 can screw up your tuning a little bit right? I just figured you'd want to be as accurate as possible...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with Reynaldo. Having used the tailpipe hookup for a number of vehicles on the dyno, I haven't had any problems, especially in richer than stoich conditions.

 

 

I have done all of my fueling tuning on the dyno with the probe deep in the tailpipe (...that doesn't sound too good :happysad: ) which was after cats in my set-up. I did notice that the sensor needs to be warm or your readings will be a little off or not register on the Dynojet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From my experience (which is once), when I was doing the dyno pull for my dually, I had one pre-cat and at the exit and the reading was .4 off at WOT and .2 off at idle... All the equipment/sensors were good and the motor and exhaust were brand new (not even 100 miles on the motor or cats). Maybe that had something to do with why they were so different... But even .1 can screw up your tuning a little bit right? I just figured you'd want to be as accurate as possible...

Yes, you do want it as accurate as possible, but it'll never be perfect, so pick your battles...

 

In closed loop, fuel trims will always learn out any "error", and fueling "errors" will constantly be occuring due to atmospheric changes, fuel quality changes, etc.

At WOT, you've got a pretty large range of AFRs that will yield the same power (~1-2hp difference). As long as you're erroring .4 AFR points to the rich side and not down in the 11:1 range to begin with, you'll be fine. There will be almost no power difference from 11.5 - 13:1.

 

The difference you were seeing could also be something as simple as wideband calibration inconsistencies.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. I was planning on installing it in the header collectors. ...

That's where I'd put it; measure the driver's side as the #5 and #7 holes are the ones that tend to run lean, they're the problem children.

 

Mr. P.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...