Krambo Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 What if your blown? Thicker oil? I asked SLP's R&D guys 3 different times, 2 different techs and they both told me 10W30 synthetic for my cammed supercharged factory bottom end LQ9. They also stated that for cam break-in, use 5W30 conventional, drain after 30 minutes, use 5W30 again for 500 miles and then go to 10W30 synthetic after that. There is so much information on what oil to use, I just use what the big name engine builders use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted October 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 ok, one last question and i will end this. what about for a winter? gets to the single digits here with wind chill in the negatives 0W 'pours' a lot easier than 5W and still gets to the same viscosity when hot (30); I would not hesitate to use AMSOil 0W-30, I would not do as AMSOil suggests and run it tens of thousands of miles because their product gets thicker as it ages, after a certain point (7500-miles???) it will be an entire grade higher in viscosity, like 5W-40ish... What if your blown? Thicker oil? I asked SLP's R&D guys 3 different times, 2 different techs and they both told me 10W30 synthetic for my cammed supercharged factory bottom end LQ9. They also stated that for cam break-in, use 5W30 conventional, drain after 30 minutes, use 5W30 again for 500 miles and then go to 10W30 synthetic after that. There is so much information on what oil to use, I just use what the big name engine builders use. The first factor to consider is clearances in your engine, and Gen-III/IV engines are tight. Remember oil is not compressible (duh!) so bearings aren't the issue being addressed here (10W will not help your bearings any more than 0W as long as the minimum required pressure is there), it's the ring blowby & PCV problem; 10W base stock will certainly be less likely to have excess oil windage but on the ring pumping issue I am going to differ because I think using thicker oil is just a crutch to address the real problem (I would install gapless rings). Definitely agree on the wet engine issue though, you need to run conventional oil until your rings seat-in (less than 0.5% blowby). Mr. P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadillacbob Posted November 6, 2007 Report Share Posted November 6, 2007 Just an FYI... Me, personally, I run Pennzoil's Platinum Synthetic 10W-30 ($19.95 for a 5-qt. jug @ Wally-World) with a Super Tech "tall" filter (Super Tech is Wal-Mart's generic brand, but it's made by Champion Labs, same company that makes AC Delco filters! And the Super Techs are only $2.47 a piece!) and I change my oil every 3K miles with great results... I worked for Delphi in Flint Michigan back in 95-98... AC/Delphi is the only company that makes Genuine AC filters...There where two plants, one in Flint and one in Great Britain... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelin3rd Posted January 31, 2008 Report Share Posted January 31, 2008 On the Rotella in gasoline engines issue...... My 95 Impala SS, has run Rotella 15W-40 in summer and 10W-30 in winter for the life of the car. The car now has 185,000 miles on it, and still starts, runs, gets up, smooth as ever. Take it for what it is worth, but I cannot say anything but good about it. On a side note, next oil change in the SSS I am switching over to the Mobil 1 tall filter and oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_bnoon_SS Posted January 31, 2008 Report Share Posted January 31, 2008 Amsoil has a 25,000 mile or 1 year drain interval when using their Absolute Efficiency filters and newest synthetic oils. I am just not comfortable with that for some reason. I'm not comfortable running my Amsoil 25000 miles, but I have been running their premium oil since last spring and haven't "changed" the oil in over 10,000 miles. At 5,000, I changed the filter and topped it off. I sent it in for oil analysis and it was just about as good as the Mobil 1 (gold cap extended mile) that I had sent in at 5,000 miles. I won't go much over that though as the gasoline contamination doesn't get filtered out like dirt does and I don't want to end up "washing" the oil out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 (edited) I'm not comfortable running my Amsoil 25000 miles, but I have been running their premium oil since last spring and haven't "changed" the oil in over 10,000 miles. At 5,000, I changed the filter and topped it off. Amsoil has been making that 25,000 mile claim for almost 25 years now. My entire fleet at work has been running on Amsoil for near 20 years now, 25 vehicles currently. We don't go by that "change 1 quart and filter" talk. We do a full Amsoil 0W-30 oil and filter change every 7500 miles. With all our present and past fleet vehicles we have not recorded a single engine failure to date because of Amsoil and the 7500 mile interval we go by. In fact, we have had several vehicles go well beyond 200,000 miles using Amsoil without a stitch of internal engine work, and we beat the crap out of our trucks. Amsoil may have data to prove the 25,000 mile interval claim but I would highly recommend against waiting that long to do a complete oil change. In my opinion, going beyond 7500 miles without doing a full oil change is a recipe for disaster. Edited February 1, 2008 by Fireman31 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YenkoChevelle69 Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 Well, today I changed my oil from Castrol Syntek to Mobile 1 "0w-40" and the stock pf-46 delco filter. Before with the castrol my oil pressure would not move much even at WOT. Tonight as I was driving home after a fresh fluid change and once she warmed up I got on it and PEGGED the oil pressure guage! I'm sold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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