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Old School Chevy Engine Doesn't Wan't To Turn


Fast2500Ak

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Sorry for the long post but I'm trying to get these problems resolved fast, it's already below freezing most days and It's gonna be in the -40's to 60's all too soon. I really don't like the idea of doing engine work in the cold.

 

 

Ok, I have this old late fifties early sixties school bus. It’s big, old, (and if it'll run) awesome. My dad turned it into a party bus when he was in high school and when he went away to college he just parked it out behind my grandma’s house. I never really gave it any thought but now I'm going to college up here in Fairbanks I've been trying to make it run. I didn't even know Chevy made school busses, but apparently they did.

 

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So here are some of the problems it has if anyone has any suggestions I'd greatly appreciate them,

 

1. Lots of old fuel, I just thought it was the one 80 gallon tank, but there's apparently a generator in the back with its own 80-100 gallon tank. I know the main one is full, and the other at least has some rancid gas. Is there any other way to rid of it other than burning it, or siphoning it off? Can something run on it?

 

2. The some of the wiring is bad, lots of fuses bypassed but everyhting seems to work.

 

3. And worst of all, the engine won't turn. It’s a massive Chevy engine, I'm gonna have to guess 500 something CID gas engine. The starter just clunks against the flywheel, but the flywheel refuses to budge.

 

 

 

 

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Here's what I've tried so far:

 

It ran when parked, so I think the some of the piston rings are a stuck to the cylinder walls. I've already tried WD-40 in the chambers, and then I tried PB Blaster, now 5w-30 synthetic oil trying to get them loose. Which has yet to work

 

 

My friend Joe says that I might be able to put some 2 stroke oil in the chambers and fire them one at a time, but that sounds like it could damage something and I don't like the idea of fire around all of that gasoline.

 

So I took out the radiator and fan so I could get to the balancer thinking I could get to the balancer thinking I could just yank on the crankbolt till the crank moved but it just tightens and loosens.

 

Joe also said that a ratchet strap around the flywheel might move it but it could also break it off, which would be lame.

 

I'm thinking I might have to take off a cylinder head, but I don't really want to because I have no idea what kind of engine it is, I assume a Chevy big block. Also there’s a really scary looking relic of an ac unit which I'll have to take off, and I honestly have no idea if it still has compressed Freon in it. How hard is it to take off a Chevy big-block cylinder head.

 

Sorry again for the long post.

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First I would assume that there's a rust ridge built up along the top of the pistons... To rectify this I would pour some marvel mystery oil down the intake, it'll find its way to the open valve and should help loosen that rust up a little bit, set it sit for a couple of days and then try and spin the motor...

 

Second, that old gas has got to go. Assuming the motor has a mechanical fuel pump (we definitely need more information about the motor, BTW), you will need to pump all of this out of the tank (not fun if there's 80 gallons of it...). Hopefully none of the gas has turned to powder and stuffed up the carb... I would get some mid-grade and throw a bunch of sea foam in there to help clean out the lines and carb.

 

Third, a good sequence to bring an old motor back to life is to do basic preventative maintenance... Do an oil change, get new plugs, change ALL the filters (especially fuel and oil), and new plug wires...

 

Lastly, check the electrical system out. If the starter is just whaling on the flywheel that's no good (eventually it will rip the tooth of and then the starter will just spin until you manually move the flywheel so the starter catches), however it could also be that the battery is so weak it can't provide the necessary cranking amperage to the starter and just falls on its face when you turn the key. Also check for good grounds and corroded wiring...

 

 

We need more info, and post up pics if you can!!! Good luck!!!!

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Sounds like you have one of the old truck big blocks, and its seized up. Anything that has been sitting for a what sounds like a long time def probably has the rings seized to the block. I doubt you will get that thing to run without a rebuild, and if by some chance you got it broken loose, you would probably ruin all the rings in the process.

 

As far as the old gas goes, dont try running that thru the engine, it will only cause you more headaches. My advice would be to drop the tank(s) and drain them completely.

 

As far as wiring, I would just test everything to make sure each circuit is working properly.

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Thanks, thats good advice. Yeah I didn't think I would be able to run that old fuel. I found that turning on a mysteroius switch in the cab causes fuel to pour out of the generator, (Really glad I caught that or I might have left it on) I think the tanks are connected so I can probably get the gas out by just catching it. As far as the engine I'll try to get a picture of it. I was so excited when I realized there was writing on the valve covers under all of the grime, I used some wd-40 and low and behold all of the writing wiped off making it the "mystery engine." but here are some things that I know or guess.

 

- big-block chevy

- Old AC protruding up at the upper left hand side (looks like an old sewing machine)

- it has a seporate waterpump/fan assembly connected by a belt off the balencer putting the fan near the top of the enigne

- numerous heater cores all connected with bad hose

- Massive 4 barrel carb/ manual choke, lines entering from the back, and what aapears to be a jerryrigged retunspring.

- the only thing on the bus badge wise either says "ava," which I guess is the type of bus, or "CHEVEROLET" or "CHEVEROLET 6400 SERIES"

- It's hooked up to a maunal 6 speed with granny low and an aftermarket EATON locker in the rear diff

- the spark plugs are next to eachother in groups of 2, unlike my trucks enigne which has evenly spaced plugs

- the distributor is centered at the back of the block and the coil is right next to it

- Interestingly unballanced five blade fan, three blades at the top then two at the bottom

- the alterantor looks newer than the engine, on a righthand bracket opposite the AC

- the tensioner is halfway up the block on the left side directly below the AC

- There are two battery trays, one black positive cable (that had me confused for a while) and a corroded ground which I replaced. The other tray I guess hold a battery which connects to a very back yard-looking-mechanic set of alligator style connectors which I have traced to the generator

- I am using a commercial 12 volt which fit right into the tray. It runs everything fine, the starter sounds great and all the little things like fans, headlights, heater motors all run strongly.

- the harmonic ballencer is at the base of the enigne and has two belts running off of it

- oil filler at the front of the enigne offset slightly to the left on the front of the block

- radiator hose at the far left bottom of the engine, the other it at the top near the center slightly to the left (behind the oil filler)

 

That's all I can recall from memory

 

Well that ought to give you some idea until I get some pictures up, if this sounds familiar maybe someone can id it. Thanks again for the help I'm going to try the Marvel Mystery oil tomarrow.

Edited by Fast2500Ak (see edit history)
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Some demolition derby car help - when trying to free-up a stiff motor pull the plugs, it will be far easier for the starter to turn over. Pull the plugs and squirt a bunch of Dexron-III into the cylinders, it is very high in detergent and breaks up rust.

 

Use a VERY long breaker bar on the crank bolt to turn over the engine, you can get far more leverage than the starter ever could. I'm talking like a 3/4" breaker bar with massive socket and a 4 or 5-ft cheater bar. Get manly. I would normally not advise this but since you are positive that it ran when parked and there is nothing broken in the motor it will be ok. Make ABSOLUTELY sure that the tranny is in neutral because you can break bound-up gearboxes with that much torque. Also remove or loosen all accessory belts until you've got the pistons free. Try rocking the pistons free, both forward & back. If you get some movement then treat again with ATF and let sit a couple days & repeat.

 

Everything rubber will need replacing, count on it - go to the local pick n pull wrecker for hoses in good shape.

 

The carb is shot, you can count on it. It will need a rebuild; even if it runs fine to begin with it will clog up with salts after a little use. Same with fuel lines, I would not be surprised if it needs total replumbing. Fuel tank - drop & drain, then take to high pressure car wash and rinse inside and out, then dry well I would even use a hair dryer to make sure all the moisture is gone.

 

The fan is balanced, the two lonely blades are wider so the weight is the same; 5-blade fans in that arrangement make less noise. Check the fan clutch, it's probably shot.

 

Mr. P.

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When I tried pulling on the crankbolt the other day it just wanted to tighten or loosen, granted I didn't try very hard. I was afraid it might break, is that at all likley. I suppose it would be best to heat it up so it's not bleow freezing. Good point on the sparkplugs, I'll take those out today.

The carb needs to come out anyways, I don't like the idea of a jerryrigged return spring, the last thing I want on an anchient schoolbs with practially no breaks, is an anchient schoolbs with practially no breaks stuck at WOT.

 

 

I'm still working on vids and pics.

 

Thanks again for all the help!

Edited by Fast2500Ak (see edit history)
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