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Alignment Question- After Lowering Front 3"


Turbocoop

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I had to take my truck to a different shop to get it aligned cause our dealership is too sheap to get 20" wheel adapters for the rack... Anyway I lowered it about 3" in the the front and 4" in the back with belltech spindles, DJM shackles + hangers and a few good turns on the keys. I also put in 4 new belltech shocks. I could look at the front wheels and see the camber was waaaay off as soon as I was done, like I expected...

Heres my question- Is it possible to get the camber back to within spec with it lowered this much? After I picked it up from the shop I can still look at the front wheels and see that the camber is almost the same as it was before. I got a 1yr warranty alignment program so I am going back there this weekend to raise hell. And the only reason I know they did anything is because before I took it to them the wheel was cocked to the left when going straight, and now its over on the right a little...

 

Im thinking about just getting my $100 back and throwing on some regular wheels so I can do it myself at work cause this is BS.

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you will most likely need an alignment kit, i think DJM makes one. i just lowered the front of my truck another inch and when i went to align it, i found that i couldnt get the camber near spec, nor the caster. so they most likely did all they can.

 

a kit like this should work

http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts.aspx?cat...d_prod_ids=2498

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hey kelley, dont know if ya remember my old thread similar to this one: http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=37821

 

do you think this would be the solution to my problems if i dont go with the torsion keys and just stay with the spindles and turned torsion bolts?

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I've got the McGaughy's spindles + 1" keys on my truck adjusted for a 2.75" drop, and it is possible to get the alignment within acceptable tolerance albeit not perfect; on the computer the adjustments were in the 'yellow zone' not 'green zone' but the guy aligning it said it should not shorten tire life.

 

Mr. P.

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you will most likely need an alignment kit, i think DJM makes one. i just lowered the front of my truck another inch and when i went to align it, i found that i couldnt get the camber near spec, nor the caster. so they most likely did all they can.

 

a kit like this should work

http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts.aspx?cat...d_prod_ids=2498

 

So is this the kit you used, or did you even use a kit on yours? The only one for 99+ silverados says 2wd- does that matter? I cant believe its the cheapest kit, Im never that lucky... I guess Ill give it a try. Thanks for the help Ill let everyone know how it turns out.

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They did it again and it is a lot better now. I still wanna check it myself but thats too much of a pain in the ass. They said their alignment machine was just recalibrated cause a few other people complained about their alignments, but I think the guy that did it just sucked... Thanks for the help

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They did it again and it is a lot better now. I still wanna check it myself but thats too much of a pain in the ass. They said their alignment machine was just recalibrated cause a few other people complained about their alignments, but I think the guy that did it just sucked... Thanks for the help

 

so did they use that kit or did you just have it realigned again before you bought the kit?

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hey kelley, dont know if ya remember my old thread similar to this one: http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=37821

 

do you think this would be the solution to my problems if i dont go with the torsion keys and just stay with the spindles and turned torsion bolts?

no, the keys/torsions have nothing to do with the alignment. its just the ride height and the spindle geometry. if you buy an alinemnt kit like i posted above, you can get factory specs. if not, like steve said, you will be in the "yellow" which isnt really an issue. you will find that more neg camber=better cornering, but tire life suffers (depending on how much neg camber). more caster also helps in cornering, but once again- tire wear. for me, i dont want factory specs. mine are way off and its just how i like it :D the toe, which is basically the steering, is always easy to return to stock no mattter how low you go.

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