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4l80e And Torque Management


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I read that in order to reduce 100% of the torque management you should also count on beefing your 4L60 transmission with shift kits and billet servos, etc...

 

My question is this...I have a 1500HD with a 4L80E stock transmission. Does anyone think I would have a problem removing 100% of the Torque management with the stock transmission? If so what upgrades would be nessasary? I think I'd be looking into a Transgo Kit anyway, but just want to make sure I won't be hurting my transmission. I don't plan on adding any forced induction or anything, maybe a custom tune, air box and E-fans to start with an exhaust upgrade down the road. I would say very conservative mods. I tow boats from 3000-6000 pounds with my truck in the summer, other wise it's a commuter, handling light loads in the bed from time to time.

 

Probably a question for another post, but what would a 2600RPM converter do for me?

 

Thanks

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what are your other mods? a TQ converter multiplies your tq and allows you to start making power at the stall speed that the coverter was built for. Mr.P said it the best i think it went something like this: imagine being on water skis and being pulled by a rope 50' (stock converter) long from a dead stop. now again only this time with a 100' (higher stall coverter) rope, the boat is able to pick up more speed to launch you from a dead stop. hope that helped

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I plan on doing mostly simple bolt ons. A custom tune, CAI and Long Tube headers (possibly E-fans). Mild by most standards, I want the truck to be more fun to drive than stock and get better economy in the process. Heads and a Cam might be a couple years down the road or maybe nothing depending on how the first wave of mods satisfies my itch. I won't be going to NOS, Turbo or S/C ever. Like I said I tow with the truck (moderate loads), so I don't want to do any mods that will effect it's towability.

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Well, if I read correctly what you want to build is maximum performance without loosing mileage/economy; a 2600-RPM converter would give you a better snap from a standing start, and that's the most I would go without risking a loss in city mileage - best suggestion is the Yank 2600 converter, because it's a bit 'tighter' than other brands and will not eat so much into your city mileage versus other brands. And with the increase in stall speed you are then free to get a good econopower type of cam; even though it is a ways off until you buy your cam/heads, research to find out what converter your chosen head/cam combination requires and then make your stall-speed decision; with some "economy/performance" stuff even 2600 stall speed is not needed for best performance (it won't hurt either!) but will eat into your mileage so you still want to keep some sanity on your stall speed decision and give the motor just enough stall speed to satisfy your cam choice.

 

re Torque Management - install the shift kit, then what I would do in your situation is to reduce or eliminate TM in the "daily driven" mode and leave 30-50% of the factory TM setting in the tow/haul mode. No matter what you do with the torque management, don't forget to lower shift timings to .2 to .3 secs, or zero out shift timings completely to disable adaptive shift fiming in the PCM.

 

And I would not be so anti-blower if I were you, the best way IMO to get a performance truck that has the same mileage and manners as stock is to leave the motor alone and strap a Radix onto it - buh-baam 500+ rwhp. As more people upgrade to the newer larger supercharging systems coming onto the market what I would suggest is that you take the money you would have paid on heads & cam & etc and instead buy a low-mileage used Radix, CAI, & set of headers. You already got the transmission for it. Just saying....

 

Mr. P. :)

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And I would not be so anti-blower if I were you, the best way IMO to get a performance truck that has the same mileage and manners as stock is to leave the motor alone and strap a Radix onto it - buh-baam 500+ rwhp. As more people upgrade to the newer larger supercharging systems coming onto the market what I would suggest is that you take the money you would have paid on heads & cam & etc and instead buy a low-mileage used Radix, CAI, & set of headers. You already got the transmission for it. Just saying....

 

I might consider it before I went with heads and a cam, but at this point I'm not planning on putting that kind of money into the motor. A couple years down the road you never know.

 

I like the idea of using the tow haul mode to have two different settings. Thanx for the advise.

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