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Tac Module


freeman

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my check engine light came on when driving home along with "reduce engine power" message. after checking everything I started it back up and was able to drive it home, with the check engine light still on, stopped by autozone and got the codes read. All 3 codes were for the TAC Module. I found all the info fireman posted about it from a differnt thread, and plan on taking it to the dealership tomorrow. (btw thx fireman) What im wondering if anyone can tell me where this is at so I can check it, and also if anyone has had it replaced how long does it take? My truck is my DD and I gotta work. Im guessing the dealership is the only one that carries this part.

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Its is on the firewall drivers side...little black box with a harness that plugs into it....I am looking for one ....Since i'm so modded i cant use my warranty...i wouldnt any way..I'll find one at a salvage yard or a parted out truck...the wires insude are prone to cracking i've been told and that probably what happened to you and me..P2101 and 2104 FTL

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I found all the info fireman posted about it from a differnt thread, and plan on taking it to the dealership tomorrow. (btw thx fireman)

 

:thumbs: glad the info I provided helped you out, good luck with the fix :chevy:

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if you ok'd that i feel ba dfor you

the amount of labor involved is honestly less than 30 minutes

 

and i can get the parts for about 200-300 max

 

you can find some one selling an old tac that upgraded to the 90mm on pt.net and imo id bet your tb is fine. they are not known for going bad , only if they are improperly ported. , but those to you can find on the net for under 100 bucks.

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if you ok'd that i feel ba dfor you

the amount of labor involved is honestly less than 30 minutes

 

and i can get the parts for about 200-300 max

 

you can find some one selling an old tac that upgraded to the 90mm on pt.net and imo id bet your tb is fine. they are not known for going bad , only if they are improperly ported. , but those to you can find on the net for under 100 bucks.

yea im not really sure, they said they thought it wasnt closing all the way when let off the throttle, whats pissed me off now is he told me theyve replaced the parts but the reduce engine power message followed by disengaging the throttle is still happening. they were suppose to be done with it today but they arent because they dont know whats going on. i let them go ahead and do it because i thought they would have it done by tonight because i needed my truck to get to work tonight

Edited by freeman (see edit history)
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yea im not really sure, they said they thought it wasnt closing all the way when let off the throttle, whats pissed me off now is he told me theyve replaced the parts but the reduce engine power message followed by disengaging the throttle is still happening. they were suppose to be done with it today but they arent because they dont know whats going on. i let them go ahead and do it because i thought they would have it done by tonight because i needed my truck to get to work tonight

 

Since these trucks are drive by wire, I don't think the TBs close all the way.....if you pull your intake off when the truck is not running, the blade in the TB is not closed all the way. Have you had any tuning work done lately?......sounds to me like there is a TP(throttle position) calibration issue.........

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another common problem with these trucks or gm trucks and suvs with this tb setup is one of the wires that plug into the tb will break , it however will not break the insulation just the copper inside so it will appear to be fine but the wire will not be making contact.

 

you can pull back the convaltued tubing and e tape. it should have either 6 ot 8 wires. and the most common wire is either green or yellow . but start from the connector and slowly pull it from the connector and slide back firther on the wire. dont use alot of force to where it would pull i tout of the connector but enough to where it will break just the covering . it usually happened within 6-8 inches from the connector. this very well could be your problem it happened to my ss and a few others i have seen .

 

the new pigtail is not cheap somewhere in the 65-80 dollar range and it comes with all white wires which is just not smart imo because it makes swapping htem a little tougher but if you do end up doing it use either solder or the non insulated crimp connectors with heat shrink .

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Freeman what were the codes thrown any way? do you know the numbers?

P1515

U0107

P2108

had them all read at autozone. all except the u0107 showed a TAC fault, autozone couldnt find anyting for the u0107 and I looked up the u0107 up on here and it was also a TAC problem.

Edited by freeman (see edit history)
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