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Ss Won't Start


03CHEV SS

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This before work I check the fuel pump outside the tank with a batt. charge and it ran. So I go check for voltage at the plug for the fuel pump and I can't get a voltage at all. I have check the crank fuse and switched the fuel pump relay around with another one and still no voltage. Is there a fuel pump fuse as I can't seem to find that one. I'm at a diffenent lose know. Anybody want to buy a truck cheap!!

Thanks for any help or more input guys.

 

I have took it out of park and let it roll forward alittle and have jacked the shifter up and down alittle also.

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12 volts must be present at the 20amp, pcm b fuse in the underhood fuse block to pwr that pump. sounds like you'v got a bigger problem somewhere else, the crank circut and the fuel pump circut don't share any grounds, so it's gonna be a pwr supply issue.

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I think I remember tring to start it in neutral and nothing still. I just taked to guy a shop and he thinks its theft deterrant system. I'm at loss here.

 

 

fyi, if it was a theft deterant issue the fuel pump would still run. vtd dissables fuel injector signal not the pump.

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It still should crank over even if the fuel pump is dead. lot of problems with ignition switches going open on these trucks, fyi.

 

Agree, a big issue with these trucks. Also the wire to the ignition switch is in a bad location for abrasion. But, if that wire was broken, you would still be able to turn her over. Pop that underhood fuse panel cover off and inspect UNDER the fuse panel for rodent activity. A few chewed wires will make for a real headache.

 

FYI, might as well check you ignition wire and switch (even though your symptoms don't really support failure of each). Here is a picture of my brother's Silverado that would not start...the ignition switch wire was broken:

 

Looking in from the driver's side front:

chewedwire1.jpg

 

 

Zoom in from same angle. Look right where the flashlight is focused to see the broken wire:

chewedwire3.jpg

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do you have an aftermarket alarm/remote starter installed?

 

No it has none of that stuff.

 

So you also say the pump should run if the theft deterrent is activated.

 

If the ignition switch through craps would that cause the VTD to lite up and for it to not crank and turn the fuel pump on. When you do turn the ignition switch to run the instrument cluster light and stuff work. Also why would it cause the door locks switch to not let you lock and unlock the doors and the key fab will not let you unlock the doors either. I'm just about to throw in the towel on this thing.

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No it has none of that stuff.

 

So you also say the pump should run if the theft deterrent is activated.

 

If the ignition switch through craps would that cause the VTD to lite up and for it to not crank and turn the fuel pump on. When you do turn the ignition switch to run the instrument cluster light and stuff work. Also why would it cause the door locks switch to not let you lock and unlock the doors and the key fab will not let you unlock the doors either. I'm just about to throw in the towel on this thing.

i'm late on this suggestion..., get it towed to a service place...dealership or some type of garage and get a diagnostic ran on your truck. the diagnostic will not lie and will tell you the problem...we here, can say what we think is wrong with w/your SS all day long but you need a true test. it'll cost about $90 or so.

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i'm late on this suggestion..., get it towed to a service place...dealership or some type of garage and get a diagnostic ran on your truck. the diagnostic will not lie and will tell you the problem...we here, can say what we think is wrong with w/your SS all day long but you need a true test. it'll cost about $90 or so.

 

Yea your right I'm getting it towed tomorrow mourning to a service place and he said he would look at and if he can't fix he will not charge me anything, but I'm hoping he can fix it because there shop rate is much less the dealerships. I really think it has something to do with the theft deterrent system because I hooked the battery back awhile ago and the theft light came and stayed on. I would be worried to much about the cost of fixing but i'm getting ready to go to Canada in couple weeks bear hunting and I don't want to get into that money I've saved. But thanks to all that has tried to help me. I new going into this that is was probably over my head but being the person I am I like to fix my own things. Again thanks to everybody that tried.

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Be sure to post back the root cause so others can use this thread to troubleshoot thier problems if needed! :cheers: Good luck, hope it is something simple!

 

Yea I will. Mechanic A come got it yesterday mourning and he did all the diagnostic checks he could with no luck in fixing it so off to the dealership it goes Monday mourning. He is thinking its in the body control module whatever that is. He said when he was working on it that the brake lights were staying on too . I telling you guys this thing is doing some weird stuff. Then to top all that off yesterday afternoon go to fire the ol TV to watch some TV and that dam thing will not come on. So off to Wal-Mart the wife goes to buy a new flat screen 42" Sanyo and that was 800.00 and some dollars. Wife calls on cell and ask if we should get the extended warranty for 60.00 and I tell her te way things have been going the last few weeks hell yea. Two weeks before all this the wife van blows a head gasket but I did get it traded off and bought a 2006 Chrylser 300 so far all ok with that. Sorry guys but I will diifenetly post what the problem was.

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