detjoe Posted September 27, 2008 Report Posted September 27, 2008 Hey guys I am going to pull my trans today and wonder if anyone has any tips?? I have the rear drive shaft clips off but the shaft whont come forward to slide out?? I think I have it laid out but when the shaft did not budge I just picked up a beer and was done for the night. anything?? I am not going to pull the torsion bars. If I support the trans can I drop the crossmemeber to get at the bolts to remove the Transfercase?? TIA-wish me luck Quote
shadowsniper3006 Posted September 27, 2008 Report Posted September 27, 2008 what clips on the drvie shaft? There should be 4 bolts....ohh isee what your calling clips...yes take the 4 bolts out of them and use a dead blow hammer to hit the yoke(NOT THE TUBE) of the drive shaft to loosen it it's just rusted and very tight tolerance. or use a pry bar to carefully wiggle it out a little at a time for each side. WHen you put it back in use a small amount of grease spread in there and this won't happen again. yes you can support the trans, take out the crossmember and lower it slightly to get extra access to the transfer case and top 2 bellhousing bolts. Remember there are 13mm nuts holding brackets on in 3 places i think. 1 on the passsenger side(trans dip stick) and 1 each on the top 2 bell housing bolts. One holds a breather bracket(2 rubber hoses) the other supports the fuel lines. dont forget to support the motor with the trans coming out. i used a bottle jack and a 2x4 right below the drain plug on the thickest area of the oil pan. The trans lines have a plastic cip covering them up on the trans. Pull the plastic straight back off the connector and let it sit on the line. Then you should see a a metal "E" clip looking thing, i used a 90 degree pick owl to get it out of the slot on the connector but a small flat blade works to. after the clip is removed(i taped it to a peice of carboard because it can lost so easy) the trans line should come right out. I aslo marked the top line with paintmarker so there could be no reversing them. the top 2 trans bolts can be gotton from under the truck over the trans with long extensions a u-joint and a 15mm. Or you can get your hand at them from the passenger side of the truck above the fuel rail and wiggle it in between the block and fire wall. Don't forget to take out the 3x converter bolts. Take the starter bolts off and the small plastic cover and you can get them from that access panel. I never took the starter it self off, just zip tied it somewhere out of the way. DISCONNECT the battery when working by the starter.....i found out the hard way. you can rotate the fly wheel via crank bolt or a prybar in the small round access cover at the bottom of the tranny housing by hooking the prybar on a flywheel tooth and prying in the direction you want to go. The good part about that is you can go both ways. Only tighten with the crank bolt If you buy new GM converter bolts they come with lock tight on them, other wise lock tight the old ones, don't ask how i know. sorry about spelling i never reread this, if you run into a problem i know you have zippy's number but here is mine to in case i can help out. 414-379-0823 And no...i'm not sure how to get the large connector off on the passenger side?????i never removed the tranny from the truck just took it out 4 times for converter changes Would also help to drain the transfer case before you start to make it lighter and replacing fliud can't hurt anyway. I used autotrak in mine but it says ATF in the book. I was also told by the dealer the valvolin trans oil is closest to the GM dextron 3 if you don't want to go to the dealer. Brad Quote
detjoe Posted September 27, 2008 Author Report Posted September 27, 2008 thanks Brad. I have the following off: starter driveshafts -still stuck in truck trans crossmember exhaust what is killing me: the top two trans to transfer case bolts, one is the top one holing the fuel lines. the fking torque converter bolts! how the hell am I surposed to break that loose. besides those I should be getting close. needed a break! Quote
shadowsniper3006 Posted September 27, 2008 Report Posted September 27, 2008 use a box end wrench on them you have to trun the fly wheel just right to get the wrench in there. Then using a prybar hold the flywheel from turning with the other hand. Use a pry bar on the drivshaft....be very carefull with the crossmember off, the driveshaft will only slip in a certain amount and then stop. if you lower the trans to much you might bind the driveshaft. Keep working on the driveshaft by prying between the pinion yoke and the u-joint. I also had luck with a brass punch on the u-joint cab and hitting it up towards the bed of the truck when laying on your back. remember not hit anything AL with a hard hammer or punch only the u joint. And never hit the shaft it self with anything i used a 15 or 17mm u joint socket with extensions to get the top bolt. you may be able to use the open end of the wrench but very carefull not to roll the edges of the nut or slip off and brake your hand. Brad Quote
Krambo Posted September 28, 2008 Report Posted September 28, 2008 (edited) Yea, a prybar is the best bet for the d-shaft used near the U-joint. You can hit the areas that are rusted on with some penn. oil for the night as well. Converter bolts...yea, a real PITA. I went out and bought the ratcheting wrenches. They helped me alot although I only would get one to two clicks until the handle would hit...it took a while. Make sure the starter is out and out of the way. You may need to remove the oil dipstick as well. Use loctite on the bolts when you re-install. The upper t-case bolts are a pain as well. Since I take out my tranny a lot it seems, I bought a cheap box-end at lowes and bent it using a torch. It helps get at it. Kind of a poor mans crescent moon wrench. If you look at the "tunnel" on the truck body just above where those bolts are, you will see channels that I guess are there for clearance for wrenches if you have stubbies. Since I bent a wrench, it fits in there. Before I bent a wrench, I used a deep socket and a u-joint knuckle. Place the seep socket on the stud first and then wiggle the U-joint onto the end, add an extention. It may not even go all the way on (very tight fit) but you should be able to crack it. Good luck and props on doing it yourself!!!!!! Remember on the re-install, place the tranny dipstick in BEFORE mounting the tranny,...you will never wiggle it in once the tranny is mounted Edited September 28, 2008 by Krambo (see edit history) Quote
detjoe Posted September 28, 2008 Author Report Posted September 28, 2008 transfer case is out. done for tonight its not rocket science or tuning but man alot of these bolts are are pain to get at Quote
detjoe Posted September 29, 2008 Author Report Posted September 29, 2008 man F %^$&*^@*^*^@^#@%^@(@^ I cannot get the danm torque converter bolts out and now its dark...I want to break them danm things off...I need a 8 mm allen socket I need this out so it can get freshed and I can put it back and get to the m -event Quote
supersub Posted September 29, 2008 Report Posted September 29, 2008 make sure you use american made sockets !!!! Quote
detjoe Posted September 29, 2008 Author Report Posted September 29, 2008 as Ray has pointed out I destroyed my short 15mm (chinese)socket, got a new one and continued to round them off...picked up a 8mm allen socket thing to try today. Quote
zippy Posted September 29, 2008 Report Posted September 29, 2008 5 days to have it ready... I sure hope you don't have to cut them bolts off there. Sounds like the dealer that worked on it last got them good and tight. Quote
detjoe Posted September 29, 2008 Author Report Posted September 29, 2008 yep and they might have taken my TBTC? can you shear them off with air chisel? how would the dealer get them out if they rounded off? I know I need new ones. whats the part # for the torque converter bolts? is it worth getting the ARP ones? whats the Part # for the transfercase gasket? Mine looks ok but at the bolts its kind of chewed up. I have kid detail till 11 then I am back on the cement. Zippy-you and your cousin made this look too easy yea 5 days...and I still have to get it in:) Quote
zippy Posted September 29, 2008 Report Posted September 29, 2008 Air chisel, dremmel cutter, vice grips, remove trans with conveter still attached to the flexplate, etc. None are fun. 24242395 gasket for transfer case. 11589040 torque converter bolts. Many have been done in my garage with no lift. None any fun. Should go back in much easier. Quote
detjoe Posted September 29, 2008 Author Report Posted September 29, 2008 45min later I have rounded off the 8mm hex. these bolts are made of fk#@$ soft plastic...these bolts have lost to some cheap chinese tools too! I want to use the arp bolts now b/c of how bad these have come out. I am thinking I will put the flat chisel on the air hammer and try sheer them off. I remember dropping it the first time in your garage, it was easier watching Quote
detjoe Posted September 29, 2008 Author Report Posted September 29, 2008 2 hours later and I am no where closer to having any torque converter bolts out. I think when my trans was warrantied they swapped out my TBTC and screwed up putting the bolts back?? F&^*&^ Quote
zippy Posted September 29, 2008 Report Posted September 29, 2008 You may have enough clearance to pull it out with the converter still attached to the flexplate. I've had to do that before on engines that were locked up. It will ruin the front pump converter seal, but that's not a big deal. With the trans out there is more room to cut them off. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.