southga03ss Posted November 11, 2008 Report Share Posted November 11, 2008 Well, I let my cousin borrow my truck to pull a trailer and move out of his apartment into his new house. It was dark, he was pulling the trailer, transmission line came off of the cooler, he didn't know it, and he drove it till it stopped. Blew a ton of fluid out of it. I went and met him, put fluid in it and he drove it on home (about 2 miles from where he broke down). He called me the next day, said it won't shift out of 2nd, and sure enough, the truck has 1st, 2nd, and Reverse. I looked at zippy's website, but I'm not sure what I need to fix it. I was thinking of buying the parts and getting a tranny guy I know to fix it, but I'm not sure what parts to buy. I'm pretty sure there is nothing electrically wrong with it, it shifts fine into 3rd but the truck won't move in 3rd, feels like it is in neutral. Any help would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSThunder Posted November 12, 2008 Report Share Posted November 12, 2008 Well, I let my cousin borrow my truck to pull a trailer and move out of his apartment into his new house. It was dark, he was pulling the trailer, transmission line came off of the cooler, he didn't know it, and he drove it till it stopped. Blew a ton of fluid out of it. I went and met him, put fluid in it and he drove it on home (about 2 miles from where he broke down). He called me the next day, said it won't shift out of 2nd, and sure enough, the truck has 1st, 2nd, and Reverse. I looked at zippy's website, but I'm not sure what I need to fix it. I was thinking of buying the parts and getting a tranny guy I know to fix it, but I'm not sure what parts to buy. I'm pretty sure there is nothing electrically wrong with it, it shifts fine into 3rd but the truck won't move in 3rd, feels like it is in neutral. Any help would be appreciated. You might want to contact zippy, MrP or Danny. these guys know a lot of the trans so they should be able to help you diagnose what parts you need to replace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted November 12, 2008 Report Share Posted November 12, 2008 Stick a fork in it, that trans is done...fluid level is critical with these transmissions, and running it that low on fluid probably fried the clutches/bands/etc. That unit will probably need to be torn down and rebuilt, or totally replaced. Keep us posted...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbeast ss Posted November 12, 2008 Report Share Posted November 12, 2008 Stick a fork in it, that trans is done...fluid level is critical with these transmissions, and running it that low on fluid probably fried the clutches/bands/etc. That unit will probably need to be torn down and rebuilt, or totally replaced. Keep us posted...... get a fully build trans,time to break that piggy bank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted November 12, 2008 Report Share Posted November 12, 2008 What power level are you shooting for? That is your main deciding factor on parts selection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southga03ss Posted November 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2008 Well that's great news, but as I figured. Thanks guys for the advice, will keep you updated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted November 12, 2008 Report Share Posted November 12, 2008 (edited) Stick a fork in it, that trans is done... You cannot run a 4L60 dry at all, they are very unforgiving. Once you get it apart you may discover that there is far more damage inside that just burned-up frictions, if there is scoring on hard parts then it may be cheaper to start with a different core; if you do decide to build a different core then do look into using a 4L70 core, they are $100 more on the market than the 4L60 cores but IMO worth it (if you have to start from a new core) because they come with 5-pinion planets and improved shell, among other refinements. But to answer your question, my recommendation is to use all Alto High Energy (red) frictions and wide band With creativity you can get 9 frictions in the 3-4 clutch pack. Some guys are using the graphite band with sucess, they are a lot more forgiving to abuse I am told??? But do NOT use stock or graphite or kevlar frictions. Also upgrade the shell (Beast shell) and use a Corvette 2nd servo and valve body modifications. For starters. There's a ton of stuff on the market now for these transmissions, so to recommend beyond that will require knowing if the truck is NA or FI/NOS. Very sorry to hear about your transmission, FWIW I know the pain many times over. Mr. P. Edited November 12, 2008 by Mr. P. (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southga03ss Posted November 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2008 Just wondering if anyone has ever rebuilt a tranny pump. I'm currently looking at buying all of the parts for my tranny (beast shell, alto red eagle clutches, vette servos,etc., etc.) and I wanted to get the parts required for a pump rebuild, but I don't know what all is involved in the process. Help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BmanSS Posted November 20, 2008 Report Share Posted November 20, 2008 Just wondering if anyone has ever rebuilt a tranny pump. I'm currently looking at buying all of the parts for my tranny (beast shell, alto red eagle clutches, vette servos,etc., etc.) and I wanted to get the parts required for a pump rebuild, but I don't know what all is involved in the process. Help? If it was still pulling strong 1st n rev ,you probably wont need anything other than a front seal and the other plastic pieces......and all of that stuff comes in the rebuild kit. I use a hose clamp and a 2 bolts for pins to line up the pump halves if you can find a long enough worm gear house clamp to go around the outside edge of the punp get it ,or you can put a couple of clamps together to make it long enough. line up the halves with OUT the outer o-ring on it and make sure the bolts you use are not sloppy in the holes,drop the bolts in opposite of each other and tighten the crap out of the clamps .that way the pump is lined up 2 ways. Torque the pump bolts down , take the clamp an 2 line up bolts off, leave the teflon seals and the outer oring off ,now you should be able to drop the pump into the case w ease if its alined correctly pull it back out and put your seals on and put it back in. You will need a special tool to install the seals on input shaft also good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southga03ss Posted December 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2008 Update: I have ordered the parts to build my tranny: Complete gasket kit, filter, Red Eagle 8 frictions with 7 full thickness Kolene steels, 29 element sprag, Alto Carbon fiber wide-band, Beast reaction shell, superior 2/4 servos, 0.500" boost valve, pinless accumulator pistons, 1-2 accumulator spring, 13 vane pump rotor kit, Tru-Cool Max transmission cooler, and Transgo valve body plate. I did purchase a TBTC about a month ago when the tranny first went out, but I'm really wanting to get a Vigilante. Now, I'm unsure about a few things. I want a 3200 stall P.I converter. I know a guy that has a good deal on a 9.5" Vigilante with 3200 stall that was in a 4L60E in a late model camaro. Will this converter work? Everyone that has a Silverado that I have looked at on the web runs a 10.5" converter. I, myself, don't know the difference. Can someone explain to me why I would need a 10.5" and not a 9.5." I plan on re-building this tranny myself over Christmas break. I have a good friend that is a mechanic and we've rebuilt a 4L60E once before. I have 3 manuals and pictures, so I think we can handle it. I don't want to skim out on the converter, I plan on selling the STS kit I have and spraying the guts out of it once I get it back together. Hell with the turbo. I love nitrous, have ran it on many vehicles before, and even on my SSS before the turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted December 17, 2008 Report Share Posted December 17, 2008 (edited) I did purchase a TBTC about a month ago when the tranny first went out, but I'm really wanting to get a Vigilante. Now, I'm unsure about a few things. I want a 3200 stall P.I converter. I know a guy that has a good deal on a 9.5" Vigilante with 3200 stall that was in a 4L60E in a late model camaro. Will this converter work? Everyone that has a Silverado that I have looked at on the web runs a 10.5" converter. I, myself, don't know the difference. Can someone explain to me why I would need a 10.5" and not a 9.5." If you go with a 9.5" converter, most of your towing capability will be Bye Bye unless it is a very light load....a larger 10.5" TC allows you to retain most of your towing capability....... Edited December 17, 2008 by Fireman31 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krambo Posted December 17, 2008 Report Share Posted December 17, 2008 (edited) I know a guy that has a good deal on a 9.5" Vigilante with 3200 stall that was in a 4L60E in a late model camaro. Will this converter work? Everyone that has a Silverado that I have looked at on the web runs a 10.5" converter. I, myself, don't know the difference. Can someone explain to me why I would need a 10.5" and not a 9.5." Yea, that converter should work. I personally would send it to PI for a flush / going over and tell them what your plans are. I hear the turnaround is pretty quick however with the Holidays looming, it may take a week or more. The 10.5 is a larger converter (obviously) which favors more lock-up clutch surface area (I believe) among other things which of course is favorable for a HEAVY truck that may tow vs. a car which may weigh a ton less. I also hear that getting a 10.5" to effectively / efficiently stall higher than 3200 is difficult hence you see the stall ratings over 3200 come in a 9.5" variety. BTW, I now run a 9.5" lock-up Vig. so I guess you can't say EVERY Silverado runs a 10.5" Edited December 17, 2008 by Krambo (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southga03ss Posted December 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2008 Thanks guys for the help, I don't plan on towing anything, but I went ahead and bought a 10.5" with 3000 stall. Got a good deal on it and I'll take lots of pics and update everyone once I get started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southga03ss Posted January 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2009 Well I got the tranny out over the holidays and broke it down. Sure enough, the 3/4 clutches were burnt up. Good thing is, that was the only thing wrong inside the whole tranny. But, I couldn't see going through the whole thing without beefing it up. So, after I tore it down, I replaced the 1/2 clutches with Alto high performance clutches, same for reverse, replaced the 3/4 clutches with the Alto Red Eagle 9 friction pack, corvette 2nd servo, and Sonnax 4th gear servo, beast shell, larger boost valve, upgraded the pump spring, pinless accumulator pistons, Alto carbon fiber wide band, and transgo valve body plate. I haven't completely finished yet though, because I was sent the wrong filter. While I am here, I was reading about fluids. I read alot of posts where people say to stay away from the synthetic fluids because of slippage, but they normally produce lower heat. I am thinking about using the Amsoil super shift, raptor blood, or the BTE super shift fluid. I did purchase the Tru-Cool Max cooler and I am replacing the factory fluid lines with teflon lined steel braided hoses so that I don't have to worry about the lines blowing off ever again. I also have the PI 3000 stall triple disc converter that will be installed. What do you guys think about the fluid? I don't want to have to go back in and replace clutches when I could have extended the life by using different fluids. I know alot of people are running the Amsoil but I was wondering if anyone had any opinions on the BTE. It is $15.50 per gallon and the Amsoil is $10.XX a quart. Thanks for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted January 5, 2009 Report Share Posted January 5, 2009 I am running Dexron VI(synthetic) straight from the dealership.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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