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Made The Switch From Mobil 1


rojo_143

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Yup green cap; the M1 0W-40 (silver cap) is also great where you have to deal with loading more heat into the oil, like desert summer driving, road racing, and driving forced induction like a pissed-off teenager. This month M1 is selling it's NASCAR high-zinc formulation (black cap) and if you have serious valvespring pressures and high-rate camshaft profiles then you definitely want the extra zinc; it's not EPA approved lol.

 

But the biggie is USE AN OIL FILTER WITH A GOOD ANTI-DRAINBACK VALVE, Mobile-1, K&N, or Purolator IMO. Dan (sprayed99) had this exact issue with his brand new TBSS, and replacing the oil filter with a Mobile-1 arrested the problem in it's tracks. The reason the vavetrain rattles on startup is because the engine oil galleys are empty.

 

Mr. P.

 

 

I saw the 0w-30, and I was kind of skeptical / very nervouse to use anything like this. I don't know much about oil, other than the fact that my dad's buddys build race motors and will only use Mobil 1. I grew up on it, so it is just natural. Don't mean to jack the thread, but does anyone have more info on the 0w-30 oil. And possitives/negatives to using it? Thanks

 

Rob

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u can find more info on it on the mobil1 website i wouldnt get it for getting more mpg but thats jsut me.......... and as for the tall filter...... it will not hit a rock..... trust me here is mine and it tucks in pretty well........ K&N... i dont remember the part number but if u do a serach on the forum it should pop up... CIMG0383.jpg

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what is the part number for the tall filter?

I forget; I crawled under the truck but the label is against the oil pan, I can't read it. When you go to buy the filter, look in the catalog for the filter for the 2003 Corvette, it's the same price and 1" taller. Not much but hey for the same price...

 

... does anyone have more info on the 0w-30 oil. And possitives/negatives to using it? Thanks

This has been talked about a bit in the past. If you have stock bottom-end, the clearances are so tight and so stable that you can use very thin oil, the viscosity is still 30 when hot but only 0W when cold - this guarantees that at startup you get almost immediate flow of oil to the bearings, versus if you used say 20-50 the engine would run a good 5-10 seconds rattling away before the thick oil made it's way to critical surfaces. Note I am speaking about COLD startup, once oil is hot it runs at a different (thinner) viscosity. But the biggest advantage to 0W oils is that you can use a very dense filter (like Mobile-1 and Purolator) and the oil passes through the finer filter media easier, the finer filters trap out more contaminants from the engine oil. I have become a big believer in running the lightest weight oil that still gets the job done, combined with a very dense filter. Running 0W-30 and Mobile-1 filter I have no problem pegging the oil pressure guage past 80-psi in my truck, in the worse summer heat it never falls below 35-psi at idle.

 

If you are going to put a TON of heat into the oil (blower, heavy towing, desert driving) then you might consider going to an oil with a viscosity of 40 when hot (0W-40 or 5W-40). If you are running aftermarket bearings/pistons then you have to choose an oil appropriate for the bearing and skirt clearances used, and this is where 10-30, 15-40, and 20-50 are used.

 

Mr. P.

Edited by Mr. P. (see edit history)
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I have been using only mobil 1 oil filters since i have owned it. I just switched to a K&N to see if i notice a difference. I am not sure if it is piston slap i do not know what that sounds like?? If so what do you have to do to fix it? Resleave the cylinder?

 

Piston slap sounds like a knock on cold start up. Valve train noise is more like tapping. My 7.4L in my 99 burb did this horribly! I'm sad to say every once and a while my truck is doing it also!

I'm running gold cap mobil1 and a shorty mobil1 filter.

I heard a brand new vette the other day slapping away when he startd her up!

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I forget; I crawled under the truck but the label is against the oil pan, I can't read it. When you go to buy the filter, look in the catalog for the filter for the 2003 Corvette, it's the same price and 1" taller. Not much but hey for the same price...

 

 

This has been talked about a bit in the past. If you have stock bottom-end, the clearances are so tight and so stable that you can use very thin oil, the viscosity is still 30 when hot but only 0W when cold - this guarantees that at startup you get almost immediate flow of oil to the bearings, versus if you used say 20-50 the engine would run a good 5-10 seconds rattling away before the thick oil made it's way to critical surfaces. Note I am speaking about COLD startup, once oil is hot it runs at a different (thinner) viscosity. But the biggest advantage to 0W oils is that you can use a very dense filter (like Mobile-1 and Purolator) and the oil passes through the finer filter media easier, the finer filters trap out more contaminants from the engine oil. I have become a big believer in running the lightest weight oil that still gets the job done, combined with a very dense filter. Running 0W-30 and Mobile-1 filter I have no problem pegging the oil pressure guage past 80-psi in my truck, in the worse summer heat it never falls below 35-psi at idle.

 

If you are going to put a TON of heat into the oil (blower, heavy towing, desert driving) then you might consider going to an oil with a viscosity of 40 when hot (0W-40 or 5W-40). If you are running aftermarket bearings/pistons then you have to choose an oil appropriate for the bearing and skirt clearances used, and this is where 10-30, 15-40, and 20-50 are used.

 

Mr. P.

 

 

Thanks Mr. P you always seem to have the answers and the best advise! :thumbs:

 

Rob

 

(Thread jack complete. Lol.)

 

 

As for the tall filter, I think it is a M1-206. But I am not possitive. Like everyone said if you look up and 03 Vette itll give you the right one. And I will secound 10zin. I have the tall M1 filter and there is no issues, it still tucks away. If you manage to hit something that hard and you can puncture it, then the oil filter is probably the least of your problems.

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Were you using the off the shelf RP, or the racing blend? I've never used the off the self stuff in they SSS. Always the XRP.

 

 

Yea i was using the off the flesh RP. I did read though that the XRP is good stuff but decided to switch to to amosil. I also use there filters but I still like the K&N filters.

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Well i have been contemplating switching from Mobil 1 motor oil for a while no major reason other than some slight lifter knocking for a couple of minutes during cold start ups. I have been talkin to a copuple guys at work and at the local dealerships and they said that mobil 1 is kind of notorious for that??? Anyone else experience this problem? Well I switched to Castrol Edge 5W30 to see if it would make a difference Now i am just waiting on a cold morning to see if the motor still makes noise.

 

 

i use Q horsepower sinthetic and love it :thumbs:

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