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Got My Headers, Obx.. Now I Have A Quick Question


mightbstock

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My OBX's have been on for over 30k miles with no leaks. They went in from the bottom with ease. I did ditch the clamps later and had them welded. You will need two plugs since they have 6 O2 holes. Use the factory gaskets at the head. Mine are very close to the frame though and may be the reason for my KR but I'm not sure. Also, you will need to tie up the plug wires for 5 and 7 to keep them off the header pipe. I just zip-tied them to the coil. I really figured I would have had one burn by now and have carried an extra wire in the truck but never had to put it on.

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put my obx's on a couple months ago and they fit like a charm! the only thing you will need to do is get the good "$60" plug wire protector boots to protect the 2 rear wires on the driver side "i belive its the 6 and 8 plugg, correct me if im rong" because i have burnt through 2 plugg wires already, i have now doubled up the boots so i have 2 on each wire now...lol hope this helps!

ohh by the way i dont know if you know this but pull the driverside wheel well splash gaurd out it makes getting to the bolts alot easyer on the driverside header!!!

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The two rear plug wires on the Driver's side are #5 and #7. What brand of plug wires are you guys running? I had a similar issue with my old MSD wires, the long boots didn't want to stay bent. I switched to Taylor 409s, the shorter boots solved the problem, no more zip ties.......

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The two rear plug wires on the Driver's side are #5 and #7. What brand of plug wires are you guys running? I had a similar issue with my old MSD wires, the long boots didn't want to stay bent. I switched to Taylor 409s, the shorter boots solved the problem, no more zip ties.......

 

yeah thats what burt up is the msd's i got some ac decos on those two cylinders now so if they burn up im not throwing 20 bucks away evertime it happens...lol

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maybe a tunner can chime in here and set me straight, but the gain with a 160 stat is pretty much nothing unless your SC'd and creating a huge heat problem. It allows you to advance the timing just a bit more because a cool motor will resist detenation better. I'd be very interested in what a tunner does with a 160 compared to a stock 195 in terms of advance, and then how much HP the timing advance gives. But at any rate it isn't going to hurt anything so why not...

 

I noticed a difference when i installed mine and had zippy email me an updated tune, nothing huge but i could tell a little difference, worth the 20 bucks i spent IMO

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I noticed a difference when i installed mine and had zippy email me an updated tune, nothing huge but i could tell a little difference, worth the 20 bucks i spent IMO

 

i am sorry but i doubt you felt the diff. in what a 160 stat will give you. Unless you dyno'd it or track tested it, there is no way to feel a diff in performance gain of a lower thermostat, and i'm not even sure it will show a change on a dyno with a mild compression NA motor. I could be wrong as i have not tested this either, but from what i understand is the tunning change, the gain would be very minimal on a NA motor that does not have to deal with very high compression or a boosted motor that is dealing with high heat and high compression.

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i talked to zippy today about the 160 stat, and as he is the tunner to the stars i thought i'd tell what i learned. I have to stand half corrected about it. He said that on a NA motor it will make very little difference but on a blown motor it can make a big deal. He said that a 2 degrees in timing advance could be 20 hp so i stand corrected there. But like i said on lower compression Na motor is not going to gain anything or very little. He did say that it can produce hp another way though. By lowering coolant temps the radiator temp is cooler and therefore the air rushing into engine compartment is cooler. A cooler engine compartment can build more hp by cooler iats, and less heat in the intake manifold and intake tube. hope this helps.

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i believe they are 300 series stainless.

 

anyway i'm getting so sick of people bashing OBX....unless your moving an a$ load of air you can't beat them for the price. 1.750 primary tubes, stainless, bolt in, i never had a fitment problem. unless i need a 1.875 primary i can't see buying anything else. Tell the guys that bash them.....to get their story right and learn the facts.

 

the reason most folks don't like the OBX headers is they are only 2.5" collectors. My choice will be ARH on my truck but im going a bit farther than most do.

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true, but i'd like to see what a 1.875 primary and a 3" collector would do to the power band of a stock cubed motor. No doubt they would make more hp but how much higher in the power band would they make it and would it be usable in most stock cubed motors.

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