NashSS Posted October 21, 2009 Report Share Posted October 21, 2009 Well my brakes are starting to sing to me just while driving(not while braking though) so I need to replace them before winter hits! I wanna know is there anything I should know before taking a step into this project. Is there any tools I will need to rent from an auto store? Any special ways of putting the pistons back in or anything? I just want to know as its an SS and I don't have much experience doing brakes but I will have help. Also when I was looking on autozone they mentioned something about a spindle locking nut or something? Is this an issue? Also Is there any thing wrong with using Duralast products? I dont wanna tear into this thing and mess something up so if there is any advise please pass it on to me I will be doing both Pads and Rotors and Front and Rear! Thanks Guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSplaytoy Posted October 21, 2009 Report Share Posted October 21, 2009 I'm trying to remember off the top of my head here, but all you will need for tools is a 14mm, 19mm, a C-clamp, an allen key that is pretty big (not sure but prob 8mm), a hammer for light tapping to get the rotors off, and maybe a small prybar or something to get the caliper off the rotor. I am not sure if that is exact, but you definitely don't need any special tools. If those are wrong, I am sure someone will correct me. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Posted October 21, 2009 Report Share Posted October 21, 2009 (edited) Our trucks are the easiest brakes I've ever changed. Pads - Front is 2 torx bolts - I can't remember which size and god knows why GM still uses these dumbass things. Might want to get some high temp grease and lube up these two bolts - I have a craftsman set of torx bits and it was the largest one - I think they sell a 4 piece set at Autozone that includes the correct size also. ...pop the bolts out and pry the caliper pistons open slightly with a screwdriver and the caliper should just pop off and swap pads. Rear is 2 12mm bolts that are even easier. I just used channel lock pliers to squeeze the pistons in and then just swapped pads. I did my rotors a long time ago but they were also fairly easy - I had to turn down my parking brake so I could get the one rotor on the rear but had zero issues with the install. Don't forget a can of brake cleaner Edited October 21, 2009 by Ross (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NashSS Posted October 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2009 Im looking on autozone and came across some durlast cmax gold Ceramic Ultra Quiet - Premium ceramic pad with a patented nitrile rubber shim, includes disc-brake hardware kit. What is this disc brake hardware kit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSplaytoy Posted October 21, 2009 Report Share Posted October 21, 2009 Im looking on autozone and came across some durlast cmax gold Ceramic Ultra Quiet - Premium ceramic pad with a patented nitrile rubber shim, includes disc-brake hardware kit. What is this disc brake hardware kit? The harware kit just usually means it comes with the little metal retainers where the pad slides in to. Nothing that special. They are nice to have though. I fukt one up once The stock pads that came with my truck lasted the longest. I usually get the wearever ones from Advance/Autozone. They usually give me the wrong ones for the back...weetahds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NashSS Posted October 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2009 So I shoud just spend the extra money and get the pads with the kit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rays B4U Posted October 21, 2009 Report Share Posted October 21, 2009 Here's a "How-To" in our "How-To Section" that may or may not be helpful to you, unfortunately the pictures are missing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSplaytoy Posted October 21, 2009 Report Share Posted October 21, 2009 So I shoud just spend the extra money and get the pads with the kit? Only if you think you might break off part of the tab on the retainer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted October 21, 2009 Report Share Posted October 21, 2009 Only if you think you might break off part of the tab on the retainer Most quality brake pad sets come with the hardware, if you do not need new slides, just throw the ones in the kit away. It can come in handy if you have them, if the ones are in your truck are original, i'd bet they need to be replaced. You will know for sure when you get the caliper off and the old pads out. My advice......be prepared to get dirty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSplaytoy Posted October 21, 2009 Report Share Posted October 21, 2009 My advice......be prepared to get dirty. It's not that bad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Posted October 21, 2009 Report Share Posted October 21, 2009 Yeah - I just cleaned my slides with brake cleaner and a brush - they move pretty well.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcsilveradoss Posted October 21, 2009 Report Share Posted October 21, 2009 you WILL need a breakover bar for the rear caliper bolts, GM spent more money on locktite for our trucks than anything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black2003SS Posted October 21, 2009 Report Share Posted October 21, 2009 (edited) After dealing with Autozone and then O'Riellys Auto Parts (formally Murrays), both couldnt give me the right parts if their life depended on it and service just plain sucked. I ended up returning everything and spent the little extra and went with NAPA. They had everything right in their computers and didnt have to guess or match parts and were not too much more expensive. Autozone and O'Rielly's have the standard 5.3L Z71 rotors listed as fitting the SS which are much smaller, we have, I believe, the HD truck rotors on the rear, everything is different, pads, rotors, calipers, etc. And they will swear their computer is right until you physically bring in your rotor and compare them in front of them. At that point, after proving they were wrong, I returned everything and went back over to NAPA, the only reason I didnt go with NAPA first was because of price...won't make that mistake again. Oh, and spring for the premium stuff with the coating on the rotors, they will last much longer and probably not have the rust issues I mention below. The only other thing to be aware of is that if your rears have really worn/rusted in, taking the rear rotors off might be a little bit of a pain to get the hat section off of the parking brake pads. I went with the cheapy murrays rotors on my first brake job because funds were tight and they rusted something awful and the parking pads were hanging up on the rust ridge and it was hard to get them off. I had to get in there and pry the pads back (they are spring loaded so it didnt hurt them) to get the rotors off. Edited October 21, 2009 by Black2003SS (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Posted October 21, 2009 Report Share Posted October 21, 2009 kcsilveradoss - now that you mention it I did forget that but my rear bolts were easy - even with just a box end wrench but the fronts I needed the big 1/2 breaker bar... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NashSS Posted October 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2009 well we just removed the wheels and looked at the rotors and pads and they are fine on the fronts. I guess I was just being paranoid because I hear a sound coming from somewhere but when I press the brakes the sound goes away. Rears are next just wanted to give an update. I torque the lugnuts to 140 right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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