Jump to content

Radix Boost Q&A


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

I'm sure the heavy SS truck wouldn't be a good combination for the Radix / LS6 cam, but the reg cabs turn out great and I have him shifting at 6200rpms. I know it sounds a little high, but the truck and Radix continues to pull very hard up the 6200rpms in a lighter truck. Just thought I'd share that, I know some of your have other trucks/toys.

 

I recommend ditching the stock pulley and installing the 3.0" , this usually requires no additional tuning with premium fuel.

 

nice topic,

 

allen

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On that calculator I came up with 5.2 seconds to 60. When I first got my truck re-tuned I was putting down 4.3 to 4.4 0-60's on the G-tech. Since doing my new servo and shift kit I have been getting G-tech times consistent with that of the calcualtor that was posted. I think the hard shifts are causing false knock but I don't know yet. Any ideas from an expert would be helpful. As for these pulley, are you guys saying the parasitic loss from the smaller pulley isn't worth it? I have a 3.3 and I was going to put on a 3.0.....that's what my "tune" is set-up for. Anyway, I'm a little discouraged by the performance of my Radix. It does get to hot, it should have come with a better intercooler and I believe what you guys are saying about its failure to create enough boost for a 6.0.

 

:rolleyes:

 

MN5, that Radix must have been in the way of your motor.....did you run your tuck both with and without the blower to see the performance difference or was the blower put on the 427 before it went in?

 

Farmtruck, how quick can I get a pulley from you? Which one should I do? 3.1, 3.0, 2.9???????

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anyone else having what they think it false Knock?

 

Anyone else with a Radix or ASM headers have a imbalance in LTFT's? One side rich or lean

 

I know the Lightning has its Knock sensors disabled. Could they have had the same issue of False Knock.

 

The C5 will put down 450RWHP with a Intercooled Magnason so what kind of times and traps could you get with a SS and 450RWHP?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

one more thing....what do you think the corrected horsepower is at the fly wheel? 600 to 650?

The motor made just under 600 FWHP on the Engine Dyno without the blower.

 

The blower doesn't get "in the way" 7-8 lbs of boost.

 

Because I haven't dyno'ed RWHP & TQ are any bodies guess. But my thoughts are that it has a broad and flat power curve (a good thing) and that the radix is limited to the low to mid 500RWHP range on a built motor.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i've ran into a similar situation on a friends car. he unfotunatly picked a blower which was great for a stock to very mild engine and i worked with what i could there. at 8psi of boost i think we were only picking up may be 40hp or so from the blower because we had to spin it so fast to get that number. it made 470hp on the dyno with race fuel in it and 468 on pump gas. with the combonation the engine was setup up with it should have made 410-430 area without a blower. on the other hand it made 500+ ft lbs of torque (i forget the exact number) which was where the blower was the biggest help. even with too small of a blower, it sure makes for nice torque once the boost comes up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

MN

 

I figured your motor would do 600hp w/o the blower. I just didn't understand how the magnacharger could help. I figured the heat from the compressed air along with spinning the thing was almost a wash. But, additional torque on these things is obviously a huge help. Are you sticking with it or are you still trying to sell your blower? How far can these things be taken? If you go too much further (turbo) you'd be looking at some serious power, but I'd think you're/we're limited by the other componenents in the driveline, right? What could the rest of these drivelines handle w/o breaking shafts and breaking gears?

 

BTW....got any more vids on that thing? I still have your 0-90 run on my desktop!

 

:thumbs:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

[xcelr8, so you don't think boost will help a motor? Even a built motor? ]

 

Ben

 

That's not what I meant. Our blowers aren't meant to create 8lbs of boost on a 427, apparently they're hardly enough for a 6.0. There isn't any type of forced induction that creates more parisitic loss and heat than a roots style blower.....especially one that has to be overdriven (because it's undersized) to create the proper amount of boost. For example, the tuner that helped me with my truck had a DRM corvette in his shop with a 427 and a magnacharger. They were having a hard time getting more than 2lbs boost with this set-up. They had additional concerns too. The design of the corvette blowers doesn't keep the rear cylinders rich enough, so they (rear cylinders)are running about 800-900 degrees hotter than the other cylinders.....magnacharger had to choke down the rear of the vette blower to accomodate the windsheild. (nice engineering) They have a nice package as far as looks and install goes, but I think they are a little short on function when it comes to a modified motor. If I knew I'd need to overdrive my blower to see 7lbs of boost I would have went with something different. The charge temps they quote for these blowers is with the reccomended pulley. I for one would like to see the charge temps of a roots blower that is spinning at 10-20% higher revolutions than what was intended.

 

 

Now to my point.....It seems to me that if someone has a radical engine upgrade a centrifugal s/c or a turbo is a better investment. If you disagree, that's OK......just look how the other guys are doing at the track with different blowers. MNC5 would lay down 12's with his blower riding in the passenger seat. That's why I asked if he did a before and after run...dyno or track.

 

;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...