dublenut Posted October 3, 2010 Report Share Posted October 3, 2010 whats up guys. i just replaced my head gasket in a sbc. my question is what can i add to my oil to get rid of the old milky oil. i have already changed the oil and filter twice and the oil is still milky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted October 3, 2010 Report Share Posted October 3, 2010 Did you do 1 head gasket or both? If your oil is still milky, then there still must be a leak... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueAKSSS Posted October 4, 2010 Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 Did you do 1 head gasket or both? If your oil is still milky, then there still must be a leak... I would have to agree, also if it's a Vortec Style SBC there known for leaking coolant into the oil via leaky intake gaskets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cramer Posted October 4, 2010 Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 Also did you check the head to make sure it wasn't warped? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wody Posted October 4, 2010 Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 (edited) does the oil level change? does your coolant level drop? could also fill a clear container with the oil from the engine and let it sit for a day or so and see if you get any separation between liquids. Edited October 4, 2010 by WODY™ (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dublenut Posted October 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 i changed boths gaskets just to make sure. it dosent overheat and i havent checked the oil level. i does smoke when i drive it. i just had this motor rebuilt 1 week before the head gasket blew. i know for sure it had a sleeve in one of the cylinder before i took it to the machine shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04CHASE Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 did they seal the intake manifold well? silicone needs to be used in the front and back of the manifold but usually wont leak into each other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wody Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 i changed boths gaskets just to make sure. it dosent overheat and i havent checked the oil level. i does smoke when i drive it. i just had this motor rebuilt 1 week before the head gasket blew. i know for sure it had a sleeve in one of the cylinder before i took it to the machine shop. what color smoke? and coolant level? correct oil used? oil pressure? and do the clear container test to see if there is any separation between liquids. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dublenut Posted October 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2010 (edited) its white smoke when i floor it coolant level dosent seem to drop. oil pressure is at 45psi, i dont have a overflow catch can. the intake was leaking from front and back. just turned it on and its still leaking. dam oil leaks Edited October 6, 2010 by dublenut (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted October 6, 2010 Report Share Posted October 6, 2010 its white smoke when i floor it ... OK you are battling a lot of different issues here. Answering your original question - what we did in my demolition derby days after aquiring a "new" car that had been sitting in a field for 20-years was to add 1-qt of ATF to the oil; transmission fluid is very high in detergent, and any waxy sludge buildup inside the crankcase will get washed into the oil filter within a few hundred miles. Remember to change the filter and oil after a short while!!! We have totally plugged filters before doing this on motors that had a 1/4" of waxy sludge buildup in them, because they were operated in the 60's-70's with crappy cheap straight-weight motor oils. Smoke under WOT - means you are sucking oil either down the intake port: * bad intake valve guides (very likely on poorly rebuilt heads) * bad intake valve seals * oil coming into intake via PCV valve (very likely if rings not seated) * leaky intake manifold gaskets and oil getting sucked into the port from the underside of intake (very likely on poorly reman'd motor) - OR - * one or more oil control rings are failing to do their job (likely on a poorly reman'd motor). DO THIS: 1. pull the plugs, and look for wet ones. 2. buy/rent/borrow a leakdown tester, learn how to use it, and determine the mechanical condition of the chambers - I personally never let go of or sign-off on a project with a reman'd motor without first performing a leakdown gauge check. 3. as you are not sure if the cooling system is in solid shape, perform a cooling system pressure check; take the vehicle to a radiator shop if you have to, they should be able to do this check for cheap (or free!). Is the cooling system leak-free? ...perform a cooling system pressure check. Are the head gaskets leak-free? ...perform a cylinder leakdown pressure check. Do those two checks first - that will tell you the 'hard mechanical' condition of the rings, cylinder hone/wear-in, and gaskets. Then start hunting for oil intrusion, that is a separate issue to troubleshoot. My money is that the intake manifold flanges are not machined at the correct angles to seal against the heads, and you are pulling oil into the port runner from the bottom (lifter valley area). Seen it MANY times on reman'd SBCs. If this is indeed what's happening then you will spend $50-75 to have the intake flanges machined, or you have to run thicker intake gaskets. Mr. P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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