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The Big 3 Upgrade


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I know I need to use 0 gauge wire to do this upgrade but Im not sure about how much wire I will need and how exactly to go about doing it. I really dont want to pay our lal audio shops to do it and rather do it myself. So if someone can help me out and tell me how to go about doing ths and what is needed. Im doing thes because I have the altenator/engine noise comig from my speakers. I had a previous headunit in there and thought it was bad but its still doing it with my double din unit. I have grounds for both amps in behind the seats whic is grounded to the bolt under the seat in the center. I also have a ground under the steering column into the metal bracing. I thougth that ground might not be srong but I unooked it and I still had the noise so I left it hooked up. Iknow its not in the headunit or the wiring behind it. Im not sure where its coming from but I figured by doing the big 3 upgrade that it woudl take care of it. Or mayb just add an addition ground from the altenator. Thanx fo rthe help in advance guys.

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do you have any 12v wire run along with your rca's? if so that can produce your symptoms. i always run my rca's opposite from all other 12v wiring. but as far as the big 3 upgrade. its just as simple as removing the cables and cuting your new bigger wire the same length and finding which ends you'll need to make it work. pretty simple. usually takes longer to take the old cable off than to buiild the new ones. hope this helps. gary

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My power wire is going down the drivers side and the 3 sets of RCA's and remote wire is going down the passenger side. I have to 3 sets cuz we rewired for new speakers so I have 2 amps. So in order for that Pac filter to work Id have to get 3 of them and theres not enough room to fit 3 of those in behind the head unit.

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Ground your deck to where you amps are grounded. that'll fix most or all of it. If you still have noice, replace evasion. What kind are they?

Sent from my GT-I9000M using Tapatalk

 

 

Evasion??

 

 

Well I picked up 2 of those PAC ground loop from the local audio shop. I will try to put them in and see if that works on the next decent non rainy day.

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Evasion??

 

 

Well I picked up 2 of those PAC ground loop from the local audio shop. I will try to put them in and see if that works on the next decent non rainy day.

Sorry it's supposed to say rca's. Tapatalk wouldn't let you edit a post.

 

If you ground everything to the same spot, it can eliminate a ground loop.

Ground loop isolators are a band-aid solution that usually doesn't work. If I were you I would try to fix the problem.

 

There are many reasons why noise can be introduced into a system. You can eliminate them one by one, till it's fixed.

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Sorry but what exactly is the "big 3 upgrade"

Sorry but what exactly is the "big 3 upgrade"

:squintnoeswerdrun::withstupid:

 

GOOGLE SEARCH RESULTS

 

The "Big Three" upgrade means improving the current capacity of three cables: 1) alternator positive to battery positive, 2) battery negative to chassis, and 3) engine ground to chassis. Some people replace the factory wiring; others add additional cables to the factory wiring.

 

The write-up on The12Volt has pretty-much been the internet bible on the subject for many years.

 

Mr. P. :)

Edited by Mr. P. (see edit history)
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In all honesty, turn down the gains on your amps. The gain control on your amps are only to boost / match the input signal with the audio source and have no impact on amplifier output. If you crank your gains, you will be clipping your signal anyway which will show up on a RTA if you have access to one. Without getting into the specifics on how to match signal gains from one amp to another and then to the signal source using a RTA and test tones, just lowering your gains will do wonders for noise. If this doesn't work, you have a true signal interruption somewhere.

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In all honesty, turn down the gains on your amps. The gain control on your amps are only to boost / match the input signal with the audio source and have no impact on amplifier output. If you crank your gains, you will be clipping your signal anyway which will show up on a RTA if you have access to one. Without getting into the specifics on how to match signal gains from one amp to another and then to the signal source using a RTA and test tones, just lowering your gains will do wonders for noise. If this doesn't work, you have a true signal interruption somewhere.

 

 

:withstupid: do not use boost or anything along those lines. match the GAIN with what ur subs outputs are minus a little. the bass boost is a joke and kills subs faster than anything. u will see a big diffenence in quality of sound as well as the whining u hear. also, the big 3 is very easy, i havent got around to do it but its def a helpful thing. after that ground ur radio or head unit to the metal brackets under ur steering wheel where the bottom dahs piece mounts. that is welded straight to the frame. scrape a little paint, run a ring terminal on the wire and use self tapping screws. very simple. ground loop isolators are a HUGE joke.

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ground ur radio or head unit to the metal brackets under ur steering wheel where the bottom dahs piece mounts. that is welded straight to the frame. scrape a little paint, run a ring terminal on the wire and use self tapping screws. very simple. ground loop isolators are a HUGE joke.

 

Sorry man.... but I disagree.

I always ground the headunit to where the amps are grounded. It's common practice at car audio shops.

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My gains on my amps are barely up as is so thats not the problem. I installed this setup with a good frined of mine who is a professional with this stuff. We just never had time to tackle the ground noise until now.

 

Well the groudn loop isolators actually took care of the problem and it sounds fine. It didnt cut back on any signal coming throught the speakers and is sounds much clearer like its supposed to without that annoying whine. Its nice to be able to hear all the pings and tings like you should with sound quality.

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