How Much Gain Will This Give Me

[slowfive0]

Ok, I got the bug. Went 12.67 at 104 with the following mods (see sig below) this past weekend and now I want more.

 

Thinking about e-fans and a 90mm tb/j-tube upgrade. Is it worth it and will it make much difference?

 

Also, I seen at least one SS Silverado on here going 12.30 that was running 111mph with a similar combo to me---Where am I going to gain 7 mph??? lol Thanks.

[misterp]

E-Fans gains - about 10+ hp; 90mm TB - about 15+ hp (that's my guess on the TB). I would think you could gain 2-3 tenths between both of them and a retune for the TB.

 

Mr. P.

 

PS - I would be curious to see what the truck runs with the catback disconnected.

Edited October 11, 2010 by Mr. P. (see edit history)

[Krambo]

I have a deep relationship with a Radix and the 6.0L SSS and the 1/4 mile. All the mods you mentioned are good and will show improvement however there are some easy ones that will get you a much better time and MPH.

 

First and foremost is the tuning. A lower MPH than comparable trucks with the same mods has alot to do with IAT's and timing pulled in these tables for safety. As you IAT's increase, your timing will drop (if your tuner was safe about the curve). In my experience, some may have issues with this, you will want to hold between 19 - 21* of advance with boost in the 8-9# range. This gave me the most power on the dyno however I did trip some KR. I pulled back the sensitivity on the sensors (tuning) a bit and all was well. Heat is the enemy in this relationship! Anything over 150* at the top end will have trouble keeping KR in check at these timing levels. If you can hold an actual 20* of advance through the traps, keep IAT's idealy below 125* and have a constant 8-9# of boost, you will go faster.

 

Second, is your 60ft time...what was it? You should be able to pull 1.6's with your mods, if not, look at your tuning and IAT's at launch. Zero'ing my Burst Knock settings picked me up 0.05 repeatedly. Now, if you think 0.05 isn't much overall, your right however in your 60ft time, that is substantial. There is a huge difference in power and 60ft time in relation to IAT's. Do your best to run with a luke warm motor (not cold). FYI, my best ever ET with the Radix had IAT's in the 80's at the launch. My best ever 60ft had them in the 50's.

 

Gearing and converter lock up. With shorter tires (29") and locking your converter just after your 2-3 shift, you will stay in the powerband of your combo. If you take note, during your 1/4 mile run, you stay in 3rd gear for roughly 50% of the overall run. You want to be able to maximize this time in your combo's sweet spot hence the locking of the converter at the appropriate time. Having tuned numerous Radix set-ups similar to yours, you will want to shift at about 6200 for your 1-2 and 6100 for your 2-3. Lock-up will should occur at about 90-93MPH with stock sized tires. You may need to experiment with this. Were you running stock wheels and tires?

 

As for physical mods:

 

1. Pin your crank pulley

2. Run a colder plug than stock (NGK TR6 or equal, better to try a non-projected tip: NGK BR6EF)

3. Strait through flow mufflers (magnaflow etc) 3".

4. 90mm LS2 TB conversion

5. E-fans. This is a great mod to keep under hood temps down in the staging lanes. If you wire your intercooler pump to a switch, you can cool the blower down nicely with the motor off as well. (make sure you have a good battery!)

[misterp]

Great Post!

[brobradh77]

Great Post!

 

LOl..Now I seet ips like this a few years later..LMAO Thanks Kevin..justkidding...I need to head to the track and see where i'm at now...one of these days it will all come together for me I know it.

[detjoe]

good info here! I like how you explain the relationship between the tune and a real world 'feeling' like temapature. For us rookie tuners it helps to have a good understanding of the concepts before we get over whelmed with tables.

 

Kevin-You are too modist with your tuning skills

Edited October 11, 2010 by detjoe (see edit history)

[RICE EATER]

great post !!..alot of helpfull hints..i never though about a switch for my pump to go along with my efans..!!

 

did you ever play around with tire size? most guys seem to think a 28 or 29 inch tire works best. my truck has 22s and really kills my mph..but i had a set of 16s with alil tire thats only about 26inchs..and obvious i picked up alot of mph 111mph..always been curious if i would see more or less gaines with a 28.. i relized if i was alil faster i might run out of 3rd and try to shift in to 4th..but so far so good

 

i know another member has played around with spacers..and a larger intercooler..and saw huge gains..something like 100hp..altho thats on a bigger tvs2300 and larger motor..but im wondering what kinda gains us radix guys would see..now that they are in production..im very tempted..

 

any way to keep the iats down ..i get excited about..considering im seen 150* after the 1/4

[Krambo]

did you ever play around with tire size? most guys seem to think a 28 or 29 inch tire works best. my truck has 22s and really kills my mph..but i had a set of 16s with alil tire thats only about 26inchs..and obvious i picked up alot of mph 111mph..always been curious if i would see more or less gaines with a 28.. i relized if i was alil faster i might run out of 3rd and try to shift in to 4th..but so far so good

 

 

I experimented a little here and found that a 29" seemed to be best for the AWD (for me). Drag radials did next to nothing in the cold time of the year but stuck like glue in the summer.

 

Just want to clear up one of my statements about timing. I was running meth when I was doing alot of the dyno work. While the Intake temps never really showed any improvement (with any nozzle) it did add a nice bump in octane. I feel this octane bump allowed for a tick or two more timing advance (not much though). Once fuel was dialed in, I increased timing by 2 degrees on every pull starting at 14*. I found that every degree between 14 and 18 gave 10RWHP. Gains from 18-20 were minimal but still gains. I think since my truck was beat on during this tuning session the last runs were lower than if they were done on a cold engine. I forced these timing values (dangerous however I wanted to do a 408 and if the engine went, so be it) by zeroing my KR sensors. I did a run at 24* however aborted because I actually heard detonation! I loaded a 20* tune and did one final confirmatory run and saw a small tick of KR however it gave me the best overall power curve with some level of safety.

 

One other change I made to my tune to run in the 11's that many tuners will not do is to shorten the KR recovery rate. When a knock event occurs the stock KR decay rate will pull timing your entire 1/4 mile run. This is for safety of your engine, nothing more and the stock values are VERY conservative. I confirmed a 50HP increase from 14* to 20* so if I pull 5 degrees of timing during most of my run, that is significant! I made my decay slope very steep which in the event of KR, still pulled timing to quench the perceived knock however the timing recovered very quickly to get me back into the max power timing level. This could also be a major contributor to your lower MPH as if you had a knock event in 3rd gear, you could have been several degrees of timing less going through the traps even though the knock event happened a few seconds earlier.

 

There is a fine line of what one tuner calls "safe" and another calls "aggressive". A good tuner is not going to mess with your KR decay values, KR sensitivity, and max KR values in order for you to squeeze out a couple of tenths...and rightfully so. If you do not have the means to experiment with tuning, you need to maximize the variables you can control in order to improve ET and MPH. Here is a quick list:

 

1. TEMPERATURE - both intake temps and ambient. Density Altitude falls into this area however I found that ice cold temps (in the 40's) were better than a -2000DA. You want your best times, drag in the late fall, keep your truck engine cool (no idling in the staging lanes) and don't hot lap.

 

2. WEIGHT - you can pick up a few tenths by removing the tailgate, limit your fuel and running smaller and lighter wheels. Get rid of the jack, spare, your CD case and other junk in the cab. The windshield washer res. holds several pounds of fluid etc.

 

3. Run good, fresh, High Octane fuel.

 

4. Make sure your equipment health is tip-top. Your blower belt, airfilter, battery, new plugs etc.

 

5. Have Fun! If you are not having fun with improving your times and it becomes annoying or too costly, step back and re-evaluate if it is worth it.

 

Disclaimer - I AM NOT A TUNER. I made changes in my tune knowing that I was operating on a fine line of engine safety. (that one is for you Joe ).

[blackbeast ss]

So you ran with your converter locked right?? did you ever run with it unlocked and see if it made a big difference??

 

good post btw!!

Edited October 12, 2010 by blackbeast ss (see edit history)

[idahoBLKss]

I experimented a little here and found that a 29" seemed to be best for the AWD (for me). Drag radials did next to nothing in the cold time of the year but stuck like glue in the summer.

 

Just want to clear up one of my statements about timing. I was running meth when I was doing alot of the dyno work. While the Intake temps never really showed any improvement (with any nozzle) it did add a nice bump in octane. I feel this octane bump allowed for a tick or two more timing advance (not much though). Once fuel was dialed in, I increased timing by 2 degrees on every pull starting at 14*. I found that every degree between 14 and 18 gave 10RWHP. Gains from 18-20 were minimal but still gains. I think since my truck was beat on during this tuning session the last runs were lower than if they were done on a cold engine. I forced these timing values (dangerous however I wanted to do a 408 and if the engine went, so be it) by zeroing my KR sensors. I did a run at 24* however aborted because I actually heard detonation! I loaded a 20* tune and did one final confirmatory run and saw a small tick of KR however it gave me the best overall power curve with some level of safety.

 

One other change I made to my tune to run in the 11's that many tuners will not do is to shorten the KR recovery rate. When a knock event occurs the stock KR decay rate will pull timing your entire 1/4 mile run. This is for safety of your engine, nothing more and the stock values are VERY conservative. I confirmed a 50HP increase from 14* to 20* so if I pull 5 degrees of timing during most of my run, that is significant! I made my decay slope very steep which in the event of KR, still pulled timing to quench the perceived knock however the timing recovered very quickly to get me back into the max power timing level. This could also be a major contributor to your lower MPH as if you had a knock event in 3rd gear, you could have been several degrees of timing less going through the traps even though the knock event happened a few seconds earlier.

 

There is a fine line of what one tuner calls "safe" and another calls "aggressive". A good tuner is not going to mess with your KR decay values, KR sensitivity, and max KR values in order for you to squeeze out a couple of tenths...and rightfully so. If you do not have the means to experiment with tuning, you need to maximize the variables you can control in order to improve ET and MPH. Here is a quick list:

 

1. TEMPERATURE - both intake temps and ambient. Density Altitude falls into this area however I found that ice cold temps (in the 40's) were better than a -2000DA. You want your best times, drag in the late fall, keep your truck engine cool (no idling in the staging lanes) and don't hot lap.

 

2. WEIGHT - you can pick up a few tenths by removing the tailgate, limit your fuel and running smaller and lighter wheels. Get rid of the jack, spare, your CD case and other junk in the cab. The windshield washer res. holds several pounds of fluid etc.

 

3. Run good, fresh, High Octane fuel.

 

4. Make sure your equipment health is tip-top. Your blower belt, airfilter, battery, new plugs etc.

 

5. Have Fun! If you are not having fun with improving your times and it becomes annoying or too costly, step back and re-evaluate if it is worth it.

 

Disclaimer - I AM NOT A TUNER. I made changes in my tune knowing that I was operating on a fine line of engine safety. (that one is for you Joe ).

 

 

great post and great info... i know your hesitant about e85 but i would love to see you play with it and see the outcome of it.

[slowfive0]

First and foremost is the tuning. A lower MPH than comparable trucks with the same mods has alot to do with IAT's and timing pulled in these tables for safety. As you IAT's increase, your timing will drop (if your tuner was safe about the curve). In my experience, some may have issues with this, you will want to hold between 19 - 21* of advance with boost in the 8-9# range. This gave me the most power on the dyno however I did trip some KR. I pulled back the sensitivity on the sensors (tuning) a bit and all was well. Heat is the enemy in this relationship! Anything over 150* at the top end will have trouble keeping KR in check at these timing levels. If you can hold an actual 20* of advance through the traps, keep IAT's idealy below 125* and have a constant 8-9# of boost, you will go faster.

 

Wow, there is a tremendous amount of hard earned information here and I for one appreciate you sharing it! Thank you!!!

I'm really excited about this now. I'm seeing 20 at the top of 2nd and close to that at the top of first, but only 13.5-14 in 3rd due to the lower rpm range (no KR in 3rd). This is due to a dip/valley in my timing table around the 4700 rpm band to account for the torque peak. I have 20 in the tables in the higher rpm range, but only 16 around the torque peak. If I can get the engine to take around 20 in 3rd gear, I bet it will pick up BIG TIME!!! Whoo hoo! The 12.67 pass was with 151 IAT too. I'll play with the sensor sensitivity too and see what happens.

 

Second, is your 60ft time...what was it? You should be able to pull 1.6's with your mods, if not, look at your tuning and IAT's at launch. Zero'ing my Burst Knock settings picked me up 0.05 repeatedly. Now, if you think 0.05 isn't much overall, your right however in your 60ft time, that is substantial. There is a huge difference in power and 60ft time in relation to IAT's. Do your best to run with a luke warm motor (not cold). FYI, my best ever ET with the Radix had IAT's in the 80's at the launch. My best ever 60ft had them in the 50's.

 

60's were in the mid 1.7's. It was spinning a tad (more like hazing the tires), but I think with more power it would pick up 60 regardless. Timing was 14.5 - 16.5 during launch and converter was flashing to 2700-2800 during this time. I think zeroing this would help me a lot. I sometimes get some banging on the launch like I have a loose or worn mount. Depends on how hard it hooks. I never had IAT's that low---lmao! Were you iciing the blower? I was scared to try that for risk of damaging the rotors.

 

Gearing and converter lock up. With shorter tires (29") and locking your converter just after your 2-3 shift, you will stay in the powerband of your combo. If you take note, during your 1/4 mile run, you stay in 3rd gear for roughly 50% of the overall run. You want to be able to maximize this time in your combo's sweet spot hence the locking of the converter at the appropriate time. Having tuned numerous Radix set-ups similar to yours, you will want to shift at about 6200 for your 1-2 and 6100 for your 2-3. Lock-up will should occur at about 90-93MPH with stock sized tires. You may need to experiment with this. Were you running stock wheels and tires?

 

Tires/wheels are stock. Tune is set up for a 31" tire. Is this right and will it matter if not? Converter is locking up at 98mph currently. 1/2 shift is happening at 6400 and 2/3 at 6100. The max 1/2 shift rpm in the tune is set to 6100 and 41mph. The log shows it shifting at 46mph. Desired shift times in tune are maximized and the shifts feel great. Is it just revving up too quick and by the time the shift happens it is revving a little higher than commanded? Weird. I'll definitely play with it in this area. Did you ever try raising your shift rpms a little? I thought I read somewhere where guys had gone faster with shifts closer to 6500, but that it was dangerous (stock rod bolts)...

EDIT: I just realized that is probably my problem (wrong tire size). If the true tire height (stock wheel) is shorter than 31", than my 41mph shift point is probably closer to 45mph which would explain why it is shifting higher than I wanted. I just looked at the lockup command in the tune and it set at 95mph, but my log was showing that it locked up at 98mph.

What should I put in for a tire height for stock tire/wheel combo? Thanks!

 

As for physical mods:

 

1. Pin your crank pulley

Yes

2. Run a colder plug than stock (NGK TR6 or equal, better to try a non-projected tip: NGK BR6EF)

Yes

3. Strait through flow mufflers (magnaflow etc) 3".

Going to drop the x-pipe in near future and see change with flowmasters

4. 90mm LS2 TB conversion

No, is it worth it?

5. E-fans. This is a great mod to keep under hood temps down in the staging lanes. If you wire your intercooler pump to a switch, you can cool the blower down nicely with the motor off as well. (make sure you have a good battery!)

No, is it worth it from performance aspect (drag)?

 

 

great post !!..alot of helpfull hints..i never though about a switch for my pump to go along with my efans..!!

 

did you ever play around with tire size? most guys seem to think a 28 or 29 inch tire works best. my truck has 22s and really kills my mph..but i had a set of 16s with alil tire thats only about 26inchs..and obvious i picked up alot of mph 111mph..always been curious if i would see more or less gaines with a 28.. i relized if i was alil faster i might run out of 3rd and try to shift in to 4th..but so far so good

 

i know another member has played around with spacers..and a larger intercooler..and saw huge gains..something like 100hp..altho thats on a bigger tvs2300 and larger motor..but im wondering what kinda gains us radix guys would see..now that they are in production..im very tempted..

 

any way to keep the iats down ..i get excited about..considering im seen 150* after the 1/4

 

Yours was the truck I was thinking of (111 mph traps). LOL! Nice to know that I have a lot of potential left! Crazy thing is this is with the M112 blower. Can't imagine what the celing is with the TVS blowers ;-)

 

Interested in the spacer gains as well?

 

I experimented a little here and found that a 29" seemed to be best for the AWD (for me). Drag radials did next to nothing in the cold time of the year but stuck like glue in the summer.

 

What size is stock?

 

Just want to clear up one of my statements about timing. I was running meth when I was doing alot of the dyno work. While the Intake temps never really showed any improvement (with any nozzle) it did add a nice bump in octane. I feel this octane bump allowed for a tick or two more timing advance (not much though). Once fuel was dialed in, I increased timing by 2 degrees on every pull starting at 14*. I found that every degree between 14 and 18 gave 10RWHP. Gains from 18-20 were minimal but still gains. I think since my truck was beat on during this tuning session the last runs were lower than if they were done on a cold engine. I forced these timing values (dangerous however I wanted to do a 408 and if the engine went, so be it) by zeroing my KR sensors. I did a run at 24* however aborted because I actually heard detonation! I loaded a 20* tune and did one final confirmatory run and saw a small tick of KR however it gave me the best overall power curve with some level of safety.

 

It "seems" like we can get one of these trucks down in the 12 teens without meth. That is an assumption---please correct me if that is wrong. That being said, will the meth help it go faster or just safer/more consistent? I thought it wasn't good for the rotors (coating)?

 

One other change I made to my tune to run in the 11's that many tuners will not do is to shorten the KR recovery rate. When a knock event occurs the stock KR decay rate will pull timing your entire 1/4 mile run. This is for safety of your engine, nothing more and the stock values are VERY conservative. I confirmed a 50HP increase from 14* to 20* so if I pull 5 degrees of timing during most of my run, that is significant! I made my decay slope very steep which in the event of KR, still pulled timing to quench the perceived knock however the timing recovered very quickly to get me back into the max power timing level. This could also be a major contributor to your lower MPH as if you had a knock event in 3rd gear, you could have been several degrees of timing less going through the traps even though the knock event happened a few seconds earlier.

 

There is a fine line of what one tuner calls "safe" and another calls "aggressive". A good tuner is not going to mess with your KR decay values, KR sensitivity, and max KR values in order for you to squeeze out a couple of tenths...and rightfully so. If you do not have the means to experiment with tuning, you need to maximize the variables you can control in order to improve ET and MPH. Here is a quick list:

 

Great advice----I'll have to think about playing much with these in the interest of a couple of tenths. Maybe when I get another car to drive first---lmao!

 

1. TEMPERATURE - both intake temps and ambient. Density Altitude falls into this area however I found that ice cold temps (in the 40's) were better than a -2000DA. You want your best times, drag in the late fall, keep your truck engine cool (no idling in the staging lanes) and don't hot lap.

 

2. WEIGHT - you can pick up a few tenths by removing the tailgate, limit your fuel and running smaller and lighter wheels. Get rid of the jack, spare, your CD case and other junk in the cab. The windshield washer res. holds several pounds of fluid etc.

 

3. Run good, fresh, High Octane fuel.

 

4. Make sure your equipment health is tip-top. Your blower belt, airfilter, battery, new plugs etc.

 

5. Have Fun! If you are not having fun with improving your times and it becomes annoying or too costly, step back and re-evaluate if it is worth it.

 

Great advice and thank you!!!!

 

Disclaimer - I AM NOT A TUNER. I made changes in my tune knowing that I was operating on a fine line of engine safety. (that one is for you Joe ).

 

 

So you ran with your converter locked right?? did you ever run with it unlocked and see if it made a big difference??

 

I'm assuming me? If so, yes I did, but later in the run (98mph). I will be experimenting more with this ;-)

 

good post btw!!

 

Agreed, thanks to all of the great feedback. Thanks guys!!!!

Edited October 18, 2010 by slowfive0 (see edit history)

[Krambo]

Wow, there is a tremendous amount of hard earned information here and I for one appreciate you sharing it! Thank you!!!

I'm really excited about this now. I'm seeing 20 at the top of 2nd and close to that at the top of first, but only 13.5-14 in 3rd due to the lower rpm range (no KR in 3rd). This is due to a dip/valley in my timing table around the 4700 rpm band to account for the torque peak. I have 20 in the tables in the higher rpm range, but only 16 around the torque peak. If I can get the engine to take around 20 in 3rd gear, I bet it will pick up BIG TIME!!! Whoo hoo! The 12.67 pass was with 151 IAT too. I'll play with the sensor sensitivity too and see what happens.

 

Yea, You should see ET improvement if you can keep the timing in 3rd higher. Get that IAT down too.

 

60's were in the mid 1.7's. It was spinning a tad (more like hazing the tires), but I think with more power it would pick up 60 regardless. Timing was 14.5 - 16.5 during launch and converter was flashing to 2700-2800 during this time. I think zeroing this would help me a lot. I sometimes get some banging on the launch like I have a loose or worn mount. Depends on how hard it hooks. I never had IAT's that low---lmao! Were you iciing the blower? I was scared to try that for risk of damaging the rotors.

 

That is a good 60 on stock tires. Remember alot of what I said is not the safest method to gain ET so make sure you want to push the limits before trying any of these. Yes, I iced my blower. Heat soak is aweful on the 112's IMHO. I let the truck sit for at least an hour with a bag of ice on the manifold. Icing the manifold will not hurt it, just keep the liquid water from dripping on your motor.

 

Tires/wheels are stock. Tune is set up for a 31" tire. Is this right and will it matter if not? Converter is locking up at 98mph currently. 1/2 shift is happening at 6400 and 2/3 at 6100. The max 1/2 shift rpm in the tune is set to 6100 and 41mph. The log shows it shifting at 46mph. Desired shift times in tune are maximized and the shifts feel great. Is it just revving up too quick and by the time the shift happens it is revving a little higher than commanded? Weird. I'll definitely play with it in this area. Did you ever try raising your shift rpms a little? I thought I read somewhere where guys had gone faster with shifts closer to 6500, but that it was dangerous (stock rod bolts)...

EDIT: I just realized that is probably my problem (wrong tire size). If the true tire height (stock wheel) is shorter than 31", than my 41mph shift point is probably closer to 45mph which would explain why it is shifting higher than I wanted. I just looked at the lockup command in the tune and it set at 95mph, but my log was showing that it locked up at 98mph.

What should I put in for a tire height for stock tire/wheel combo? Thanks!

 

Your actual logged shift points will hardly ever be exact with what you command. Clutch slippage, electrical delays, line pressure, converter slip etc. all will impact this value. As long as it is close its fine. Now, if you are commanding say 6000 and it shifts at 6500, then you may have something to look at.

 

I shifted as high as 6800 with no gains found and it is obvious when you look at efficiency maps. My dyno charts show a pretty sharp decline after 6500 anyway. From what I have read and inquired about, it can take as much as 60-70HP just to drive the 112 well beyond its efficiency range. So by spinning it that high you actually use more HP than it will make in that RPM level...not to mention the HEAT generated. You really need to look at the efficiency map of the 112 to dial it in. I got real involved back in the day and challenged this map with real world data with no success. Believe the map.

 

Here is a formula for you (roots "PD" supercharger):

 

Engine RPM X Crank shaft pulley diameter = Driven RPM X Driven diameter (blower pulley)

 

Shift at 6200RPM X 7.527 (stock crank pulley diameter) = Driven RPM X 2.8 inch blower pulley

 

46,667.4 = Driven RPM X 2.8

 

16,666.929 = Driven RPM (or observed Radix Rotor RPM).

 

Looking at the Radix 112 efficiency map, you can determine if you are running the blower outside of its "power band". I used to have this map on my old laptop but it died and took alot of my good info with it From what I remember, the blower does its best between say 7,000 and 13,000RPMs. Anything higher than that, you run into the wall of deminishing returns. Not only do you have to worry about the isentropic efficiency of the 112 at those RPMs but also the physical energy (HP) needed to drive the rotors to generate the same boost pressure. This is why you hear that the 112 is not suited for a 6.0L. The compressor simply cannot generate desireable boost we are looking for in the engineered efficiency range. Matching the efficiency of the compressor is argueably more important than making the most possible boost.

 

I also believe I read that the bearrings in the compressor are not rated to spin more than 18,000RPMS but that was just hearsay..

 

This is also why a cam choice is absolutely critical for the Radix. If your cam makes power through 6500 and you are using a 2.8 pulley, you are just wasting the power to spin the blower. If you have no choice then running a larger pulley on the blower will actually help if you need to shift that high. A cam that makes most of its power by 6000 engine RPM is ideal for the Radix 112 on the 6.0L IMHO.

 

 

 

4. 90mm LS2 TB conversion

No, is it worth it?

5. E-fans. This is a great mod to keep under hood temps down in the staging lanes. If you wire your intercooler pump to a switch, you can cool the blower down nicely with the motor off as well. (make sure you have a good battery!)

No, is it worth it from performance aspect (drag)?

 

The 90 is a good upgrade when you are looking for every bit out of it. I would do it. E-fans have alot of benifits, I would do them as well.

 

 

It "seems" like we can get one of these trucks down in the 12 teens without meth. That is an assumption---please correct me if that is wrong. That being said, will the meth help it go faster or just safer/more consistent? I thought it wasn't good for the rotors (coating)?

 

Ed Mack is running a 12 flat with no meth or nitrous. Meth isn't really worth it in terms of IAT cooling. As for the Octane bump, yes it is good. A galon of race fuel cut into regular 93 Octane will do the same thing if you can tune for any AFR changes.

 

 

blackbeast ss, on 12 October 2010 - 01:37 PM, said:

 

So you ran with your converter locked right?? did you ever run with it unlocked and see if it made a big difference??

 

Once I found the sweet spot, I could repeatidly show gains of 2 MPH and one tenth in my set-up.

Edited October 18, 2010 by Krambo (see edit history)

[Krambo]

...oh, and for the E85. I am not totally opposed to using it. If you have big enough injectors and have it readily available, I am SURE it will benifit due to the higher "octane" rating and the cooling effects of the atomized ethanol into the chamber. Tuning will be the key here.

 

I only have 2 locations within 100 miles of me that sells E85. I have more gas stations offereing CAM-2 and other race fuels than E-85.

[Krambo]

Hey, found these for discussion.

 

112 Performance Map:

 

 

 

TVS1900 Performance Map:

 

 

 

I really want to point out where the sweet spots are on these 2 documents. Look at the green lines. That is blower RPMs that I discussed in a previous post. You can easily see that the 112 is horribly inefficient at anything over 13,000 blower RPMs. Now compare that to the new TVS designs and you can see why the new TVS blowers are so much better.

 

So in a nutshell, if you can maximize this efficiency index and maximize your engine to operate in these ranges, you will go fast (er).

 

Good topic. I think we are flushing out a few more technical aspects regarding the little ol' 112 Radix.

Edited October 18, 2010 by Krambo (see edit history)

[Krambo]

...Some more for discussion:

 

In a post above I pointed out just how much power it takes to drive the blower past its efficiency range. The following graph illustrates this nicely:

 

 

So looking at this graph, you can deduce that in order to turn the blower at 13000 (blower RPMs) and produce 10psi continuously, you need 60+ HP. Now we just calculated that you are turning more than 16,000 blower RPMs...you can only imagine how much HP it is taking to spin that (way out of its efficiency range). Now look at the Delta Temperature graph. You can see that the temps generated are fairly flat up until the 10,000 blower RPM threshold then increase dramatically. So what does this mean...shifting higher doesn't mean a faster truck, infact may actually hurt your ET.

 

Here is another good graph to look at:

 

 

Volumetric efficiency pretty much flat-lines after 12000 blower RPMs meaning you most likely will not squeeze any more boost out of the compressor over this value at 10psi.

 

So does this mean never shift above 12000 blower RPMs,...no not at all. Keep in mind it is what is under the curve that will move you down the 1/4 mile. Take your current shift points and calculate the blower RPMs. Now calculate the blower RPMs just after shift. This is your "power window" that you will want to shift either up or down (via shift points) to maximize efficiency and make the most power.

 

Once you have this power window, you can match a cam or other supporting mods to this RPM band. Most people buy the supercharger to compliment their already modded engine while it should be the other way around as the 112 is often the bottleneck of a max effort 6.0L or higher.

 

 

Of course this is internet talk and I am not an engineer for Eaton...take it for wahtever it is worth!