03SSrado Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 i need to be edumacated on this i suppose. i ran the SSS at the strip the other night. ran 9.76 @ 73 mph. always lookin to hit somethin a little quicker. so i was curious if AWD robbed any HP to the ground. If so whats the easiest way to unhook it w/o pullin driveshaft or is that the way to go? lookin for 9.6's next time out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_aSSet Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 why not just do some go fast mods? awd does rob hp but id just do some mods to get to 9.6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03SSrado Posted November 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 why not just do some go fast mods? awd does rob hp but id just do some mods to get to 9.6 wish i could afford it. only a senior in high school. applied for a job at about a million places so i could do some stuff to it. got CAI and an after market muffler. that 9.76 was on that so basically stock. now ive got the hypertech to bump up shift points and keep engine a little cooler, also shift firmness. while on that topic anyone know the power curve on these trucks. where should i be shiftin to get peak pull and not fall on its face in 2nd gear. but im trying to sell my mud truck so i can do long tubes, and not real sure what else ... thought about cammin it but im not gonna tear into it until im ready to build it and pull some real power out of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yfz450_0569 Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 It's a more complicated process than you think.. You can't just pull the drive shaft because of the transfer case, unless you swap to a 4wd transfer case. And the biggest thing will be if you loose the weight, not just simply disable it because then you loose traction much easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03SSrado Posted November 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 It's a more complicated process than you think.. You can't just pull the drive shaft because of the transfer case, unless you swap to a 4wd transfer case. And the biggest thing will be if you loose the weight, not just simply disable it because then you loose traction much easier. that was gonna be one of my next questions.. if i did unhook it somehow i didnt know if an almost stock ss would blow the tires off or what. because it doesnt really think about spinnin in awd so i didnt know if itd just chirp off the line or if id spin through 60ft or what. i did race a duramax and he destroyed me. ran like 9.0 and i had seen him run earlier in 2wd and it did spin off the line...but then again i talked to him about it and his truck makes 770 ft lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yfz450_0569 Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 that was gonna be one of my next questions.. if i did unhook it somehow i didnt know if an almost stock ss would blow the tires off or what. because it doesnt really think about spinnin in awd so i didnt know if itd just chirp off the line or if id spin through 60ft or what. i did race a duramax and he destroyed me. ran like 9.0 and i had seen him run earlier in 2wd and it did spin off the line...but then again i talked to him about it and his truck makes 770 ft lbs. Yeah those diesels can do that with just simply a programmer.. I ran a 9.37 with my AWD with Wheatley tune and I've also considered doing away with AWD. I'm sure in the 1/8th you won't gain much because of traction issues is my guess, but in the 1/4 you should do somewhat better. I really don't know what kind of issues two wheel drives have, but I think with a good tune and torque management off, it should roast them pretty easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_aSSet Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 ditch the hypertech and get a custom tune, well worth the money Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03SSrado Posted November 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2010 haha yeah thatll probably be one of the next things on the to do list. dad bought me hypertech for my birthday, DEF NOT GONNA TURN IT DOWN! but thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssspringer Posted November 4, 2010 Report Share Posted November 4, 2010 When you start makin' REAL power...AWD is the way to go. No traction issues..just gotta make sure the stock tranny and diffs can handle it. I'm not sure just what the stock set up can handle..but i'm sure some of the heavy hitters here can help you with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JF-03-SS Posted November 4, 2010 Report Share Posted November 4, 2010 A custom tune will knock a few tenths off the 1/8 mile time 4 sure and DON"T pull the front shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8hnpSS Posted November 4, 2010 Report Share Posted November 4, 2010 A custom tune will knock a few tenths off the 1/8 mile time 4 sure and DON"T pull the front shaft. if you pull the front shaft you will fry your t-case. once you start laying down some good power you will want AWD for traction. if i stall it up i get some tire spin even with the AWD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03SSrado Posted November 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2010 ok guys!! thanks for the input yeah i understand if i had real horses under the hood id want it. but pretty much stock i think i hear a TINY chirp leavin the line thats why i didnt know what itd do in 2wd. gonna leave it as is right now. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted November 4, 2010 Report Share Posted November 4, 2010 (edited) Search for a thread I did forever ago on cheap mods. These trucks come very detuned from the factory. Cheapest way to make a 'fast' SSS: 1) Sonnax shift kit + Corvette servo ($100) 2) Trailblazer V6 Torque Converter (wrecking yard, $50) 3) Gut cats and port-match factory exhaust manifolds (sweat equity!) 4) Find a craigslist nitrous kit - no more than 100-shot on stock trans 5) Pawn that POS handheld tuner and use that money to buy a professional tune from Wheatley or BlackBear ($250-300) 6) Shed tailgate & backseat on raceday 7) Air stock tires down if you need more traction at the track (21-psi seems best on goodyears) That should get the truck into the mid to low-13's and if you are careful should be able to do it for under a grand, and part of that would be offset by the sale of the handheld. 6) BONUS - if you can find a good used cutout have it installed after the "Y" 7) BONUS - used GM efans ($250-300) If you decide you want to go REALLY fast, you can add a second nitrous kit with standalone fuel system (not cheap but not super costly either) along with cam & a LS2 intake & pacesetter headers and run high-11's in the 1/4-mile. Seen it, been there, got the T-shirt & witnessed the busted rear axles & transmissions along the way! Making the power is not that expensive, where it will cost you $$$ is transmission work so the key for you will be to make sure whatever you do it will not harm transmission life - this is where Wheatley and BlackBear can keep you from breaking stuff and going broke on your truck. AFA your AWD vs 2WD question, both trucks ironically turn the same 1/4-mile times, but the AWD trucks have much better traction and the 2WD trucks have much better top-end. You would hurt yourself disconnecting the front-driveshaft because you will burn-up the transfer case (already said) but also you have 250-lbs of extra front drivetrain doing *nothing* for you, it would be just dead weight. Edited November 4, 2010 by Mr. P. (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yfz450_0569 Posted November 4, 2010 Report Share Posted November 4, 2010 Search for a thread I did forever ago on cheap mods. These trucks come very detuned from the factory. Cheapest way to make a 'fast' SSS: 1) Sonnax shift kit + Corvette servo ($100) 2) Trailblazer V6 Torque Converter (wrecking yard, $50) 3) Gut cats and port-match factory exhaust manifolds (sweat equity!) 4) Find a craigslist nitrous kit - no more than 100-shot on stock trans 5) Pawn that POS handheld tuner and use that money to buy a professional tune from Wheatley or BlackBear ($250-300) 6) Shed tailgate & backseat on raceday 7) Air stock tires down if you need more traction at the track (21-psi seems best on goodyears) That should get the truck into the mid to low-13's and if you are careful should be able to do it for under a grand, and part of that would be offset by the sale of the handheld. 6) BONUS - if you can find a good used cutout have it installed after the "Y" 7) BONUS - used GM efans ($250-300) If you decide you want to go REALLY fast, you can add a second nitrous kit with standalone fuel system (not cheap but not super costly either) along with cam & a LS2 intake & pacesetter headers and run high-11's in the 1/4-mile. Seen it, been there, got the T-shirt & witnessed the busted rear axles & transmissions along the way! Making the power is not that expensive, where it will cost you $$ is transmission work so the key for you will be to make sure whatever you do it will not harm transmission life - this is where Wheatley and BlackBear can keep you from breaking stuff and going broke on your truck. AFA your AWD vs 2WD question, both trucks ironically turn the same 1/4-mile times, but the AWD trucks have much better traction and the 2WD trucks have much better top-end. You would hurt yourself disconnecting the front-driveshaft because you will burn-up the transfer case (already said) but also you have 250-lbs of extra front drivetrain doing *nothing* for you, it would be just dead weight. I like the torque converter idea, already have the tune, gutted cats, and plan on shift kit & servo... What's involved in port matching the manifolds? Another idea that idk if helps much.. Drop-in K&N filter, cut a portion out of the front bottom half of the air box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03SSrado Posted November 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2010 yeah i had mentioned droppin the cats and throwin some longtubes on it earlier.. that list may get put to use here soon when i sell my other truck. i appreciate the input guys.. really do. maybe but next track season i can see some quicker times. id like to do some things over the winter and drop a few tenths. maybe not to yall but anyway these trucks sit they are stout!! its fun bustin all the ricers around town and runnin down some gt's that leave the high school in the afternoon. fools that cant drive a stick and crappy ford power..and the fact that our trucks weigh twice as much..ive shocked many people haha good ol chevy power but thanks for that list. i plan on goin through the motor in the next year or so.. do some type of budget built. cam , tune and some top end work .. but its my DD so cant put it down for long and do anything too radical Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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