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Just Bought D1Sc....Now What?

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Well like I said previously, I wanted to go FI. So I bought this polished D1 from Rick Vor over on PT.Net. Its just the head unit so I have to get the other parts from procharger but my question is, now what? What size pulley should I buy? wanting to run 10-12 pounds. Thinking on going ahead and putting 60# injectors in it. Are the Siemens (spelling?) plug and play? I would also like some FI guys opinions on fuel pump. Walbro or Bosch 044? which have you used what have you liked or not likes about them. And who to tune it? Will most likely have to get a mail order then do the Autocal. We have one local tuner down in Jacksonville but Im not a fan of his work. Anything anyone can help me with with be appreciated. Thanks, Kyle



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  • 1 month later...

Nice looking compressor :thumbs:


You are going to have to get the brackets from ATI. I would have them polished, but with the 'hammered' aka 'tumbled' finish they come with it's going to take a lot of labor to make those brackets shine like the blower.


Pulley size, I am not familiar enough with this product to offer a knowledgeable suggestion; I know 12psi is easily within the D1's reach.


Siemens are not plug & play, however modifying your injector harness is just a simple 2-3 hour soldering & re-looming job. You can find 'shorty' 60# injectors in the aftermarket that use the EV6 connector but they're usually $500 a set. Also, they usually are re-drilled stock injectors, that's not a bad thing but make sure that the set you buy is flowmatched, AND that the company you buy the injectors from can supply all the tuning information needed to make your PCM work with them. There is more to making injectors fire correctly than inputing the flow rate, there's a few tables of injector parameters that need to be correct or your idle will suffer. That is why the Siemens are still preferred, because #1 everyone knows how to make them idle well, and #2 because they are tall they have better control at lower RPMs (cleaner idle) - usually. That said, I have a set of redrilled injectors and got them to work fine for me, but I had to read the GM part number off them and research to find they were originally late-90s BBC injectors that had been redrilled, so I made and educated guess as to the voltage offsets etc from the original application... PITA.


With the amount of boost you are desiring, 12-psi will make anywhere from 700-800 hp and that is just out of reach of a single Walbro pump, I would step-up to the Bosch 044 pump. I would have put that unit in my truck back in the day if I had realized it was an option. The 044 pump is the factory fuel pump on Mercedes-Benz AMG supercars, it's a stout unit. You need to research whether a fuel return will be mandatory to support that much demand for fuel, a single 3/8" line IMO is kinda iffy at those power levels, I would install a return system which means increased costs in custom fuel rails, fittings, tank module modification, etc etc etc. In my mind the decision-point by my recollection is 650-hp?? after that point I believe that a single 3/8" line cannot fuel that much horsepower but I could well be wrong, but double-check me on the return vs. returnless question just to be sure.


Get a fuel pressure sending unit you can log! Aeroforce sells one $65, Casper's has a schrader valve adapter, $20...


Fab your own intercooler, the ATI one won't keep up with your desired level of performance. That compressor flows 1400-CFM, you need an air-to-air cooler core ideally measuring about 8" x 24" x 3.5". I run a Novi-1500 (similar 1400-CFM) and my intercooler is 8" x 16" x 3.5" and my IATs are about 15-20 degrees above ambient at all times, I researched and my I/C only flows 1000-CFM before becoming an obstruction. I am a BIG fan of buying 3" aluminum tubing bends/elbows/straights from CXRacing and cutting/fitting them into the desired charge plumbing shapes, then having them TIG welded together - assuming you do the fit-up & prep yourself and hire-out the welding you should be able to craft an *excellent* intercooler setup that is unbeatable for $800 in parts, plus a day of a fabricator's labor. Well, that's what I am planning on my own truck right now!!! The reason I harrang on this charge tubing plumbing design is because using a bunch of elbows & tubing sections means you have to use a zillion worm clamps to hold it all together and each 'joint' is simply another possible point of failure; this kit design flaw is not just limited to the ATI kits... And use T-bolt clamps!


Get a serious bypass valve, if you like 'em loud then consider either the ATI, Tial, or Vortech Mondo valve (or similar). "Quiet" will not be an option for you because there is no way to plumb the bypass air back to the inlet of the compressor. Because no 'inlet' exists in the ATI truck setup, the air cleaner attaches straight to the compressor...


You will have to move the PCM. Get or download a copy of the ATI install doc. zachm89 has a harcopy of it, maybe he would be willing to photograph it for you with his phone... This is one area I dislike about the ATI setup (how the PCM is relocated) they don't give the PCM much support IMO.


Efans will be a BIG help, space-wise.


If you have a brake system with the electric brake assist pump (SSS trucks, etc) you will have to relocate that electrical assist pump so as to be able to fit an air cleaner element. After helping zachm89, I would highly recommend removing the vac assist brake system in favor of the hydraboost, for space savings.


Plugs - NGK TR6 @ 0.032" - 0.034" gap. MSD plug wires are a godsend.


Don't forget your PCV plumbing changes, so you don't blow gaskets out of your motor at WOT.


Pin the crank.


Tuning - abandon the MAF and go 2-bar SD, get the GM 2-bar MAP sensor. If you use EFILive (or autocal) it save you $100 in custom OS licensing fees versus HPT.


Remove the cats, with the amount of raw gas (enrichment fuel) you will be putting through them at those power levels they'll melt down on you.


Headers: I would run 1-7/8" primaries & 3" collectors, that will narrow your options down to only a couple vendors.


Converter: TCS, Circle-D, or Vigilante 3000-RPM; 2800 will work well too. I'm assuming stock camming here, aftermarket cams will have differing stall requirements.


Valvetrain: shore-up the factory valvetrain, pushrods at the least. Trunion upgrade is $160 well spent. If the motor has over 75K on factory valvesprings I would replace them with new ones as they will have sagged 10+ % after all those miles and the intake at 12-psi will effectively 'negate' that much pressure from the over-the-nose spring pressure...


I'm sure I will think of more...


Mr. P. :)

Edited by Mr. P. (see edit history)
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Good info Mr P,and I will add-get a 3.85 pulley,that should make you happy and get 10-12 psi,and have zippy do the tune,he can do these in his sleep! when he originally did my D1 mail order tune it fired and ran perfect and clicked off high 12's in the 1/4 the same day!

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