2003OnyxSS Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 (edited) i have an 03 silverado ss.. it has around 360 horse right now im putting a 2wd tranny in my truck and i know there are different options. what should i choose and why. also keep in mind i would like to work on the motor and put some more horses under the hood eventually so i want it to handle power, i dont want it to shift like a 69 camero but i want it to be stiff and shift tight and handle the power without breaking. what do i get, why and what are the differences!?? thank you! Edited February 20, 2011 by kennyouellette03 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_aSSet Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 (edited) shift kit and vette servo if u just want stiffer shifts and stronger parts i wouldnt go as far as a new tranny with 400 hp Edited February 18, 2011 by The_aSSet (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2003OnyxSS Posted February 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 my tranny is tight and shifts good.. .problem is i am converting from awd to 2wd with my ss and rather than ripping my tranny apart (i live in northern maine and not single person up here is smart enough rebuild a tranny) so it will be cheaper for me to just purchase a 2wd tranny. so i need to know which is best with what i have now for hp and my future plans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2bfast Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 60E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bag Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 (edited) Your budget will mostly depend on which way to go. What is your budget? You're gonna have to get a 2wd trans anyway so I'd buy a 60 or 65E from a builder who doesn't require a core. Performabuilt, FLT and B&M offer a good deal on those that are suitable up to 500hp. I went with P.built cuz they had the best warranty, no core required and free shipping. Suggestion: make sure whoever you get your trans from provides the front bell housing and rear tail shaft housing! Edited February 18, 2011 by Bad aSS Silvy (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2003OnyxSS Posted February 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 (edited) l Edited February 20, 2011 by kennyouellette03 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04CHASE Posted February 20, 2011 Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 2wd is a bit easier on the trans when you just spin the tires. if your planning on hitting the track with some aggressive 2wd launch's and slicks with more than 500 rwhp id consider the 80e with a truck with less than 500 rwhp and a 2wd id stick with a built 65e they are stronger than most give them credit for when built properly . 80e's are just strong stock , a shift kit and they last a long time with moderate power. they weigh an ass ton though . sifenote:id be curious to actually know my drivetrain loss id guess in the neighborhood of 30% with the 80e/awd/3.73 =alot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigCountry Posted February 25, 2011 Report Share Posted February 25, 2011 If your buying a trans anyway, I would buy the 80, bought mine with low low miles for $850, and if you can fab just a little, you can build your own crossmember and do the wiring cheap. I turned around and sold my 65 for 750 in a day after the swap. So I was out $100 on the trans, the price of fluid, filter, shift kit (I installed myself), rear yoke, u-joint, dipstick and a few odd n ends bolts. Don't think I spent more than about 500 bucks all said and done. My $.02. You will need a near rear shaft for the AWD/2WD conversion as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wizard Posted February 25, 2011 Report Share Posted February 25, 2011 I guess I don't understand why converting from awd to rwd? Unless your pushing an ass load of power and reliability is the issue. Why not buy a newer rwd SS or ??? But one of the unique features of the SS is the awd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted February 25, 2011 Report Share Posted February 25, 2011 sifenote:id be curious to actually know my drivetrain loss id guess in the neighborhood of 30% with the 80e/awd/3.73 =alot Yeah a little talked-about fact is swapping to an 80E costs you 2-MPG; the intermediate shaft design kills economy. Mr. P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigCountry Posted February 25, 2011 Report Share Posted February 25, 2011 I do agree with the wiz, I'd keep the awd if it were me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
O2 WS6 TA Posted February 26, 2011 Report Share Posted February 26, 2011 Yeah a little talked-about fact is swapping to an 80E costs you 2-MPG; the intermediate shaft design kills economy. Mr. P. Yeah, and our MPG is already delightful, to say the least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warden Posted February 27, 2011 Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 If you are staying under 800RWHP I would go with the 4L65E.I have a RPM 4L60E StageV in my C5.It's good for 9.5s if your tune is right.I have a friend with the same trans and he has been running 9.0 for 3 years.Something a lot of peopl don't consider is the tune has a big affect on the life of the trans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince @ FLT Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 If you are staying under 800RWHP I would go with the 4L65E.I have a RPM 4L60E StageV in my C5.It's good for 9.5s if your tune is right.I have a friend with the same trans and he has been running 9.0 for 3 years.Something a lot of peopl don't consider is the tune has a big affect on the life of the trans. With the weight of these trucks there is no way a built 65 is going to take that kind of power I don't care who builds it. I honestly do not believe that a 9.0 C5 with a 4l60E is still going for three years without being freshened up. What is you buddies name and how many passes are on it? I'm good friends with the folks over at RPM but hardly believe this claim. Sorry but I have seen many guys convert to the 80 because they could not keep the 3-4 clutch in these transmissions. With the weight of these trucks and if you plan on pushing over 450 rwhp I believe it is best to look into a stronger option. I feel that the 80E is the way to go IMO. Vince Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warden Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 You're probably right about the 4L80E being the way to go for this kind of weight.I'm still in Vette mode and I wasn't considering the weight of these trucks.The guys name is Arun with the blue Z06 out of Toronto.I have no idea how many passes are on the car.Obviously he's not going to the track every weekend.He is a pro tuner and that has a lot to do with making the trans live.Most guys in this range have stepped up to a glide or the 4L80E but they need to cut the car up and spend big to get one in. With the weight of these trucks there is no way a built 65 is going to take that kind of power I don't care who builds it. I honestly do not believe that a 9.0 C5 with a 4l60E is still going for three years without being freshened up. What is you buddies name and how many passes are on it? I'm good friends with the folks over at RPM but hardly believe this claim. Sorry but I have seen many guys convert to the 80 because they could not keep the 3-4 clutch in these transmissions. With the weight of these trucks and if you plan on pushing over 450 rwhp I believe it is best to look into a stronger option. I feel that the 80E is the way to go IMO. Vince Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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