eddies-blk-intimidator-06 Posted February 19, 2011 Report Share Posted February 19, 2011 (edited) so my novi 1200 is working fine but if i am driving at 50-60 and step to full throttle i kinda feel need little more power, not psi but cfm, i already got forged pistons a blower cam not shure of the aspecs of it but sure is blower cam, 80 lb injectors and a just installed boost a pump with the walboro 255, also got installed a new Ls2 t/b with the x-link i got 2 pulley to use a 3.1 and a 2.85, woul;d my boost will be same with this same pulleys????? any opinions or advice will be much appreciated. the kit in the pic is for a mustang. once i install this v7 head i will be selling the kit with my paxton novi 1200 head unit., got the kit to do the swap. Edited February 19, 2011 by eddiess-06 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04CHASE Posted February 19, 2011 Report Share Posted February 19, 2011 you sent me a pm and like i said not sur eof what it will do as im not familiar with the paxtons ( almost identical to vortech's blowers) but if its the ysi vortech and the paxton was the same mount as the vortech ( cast bracket that has the alt and ps pumps on it )i dont think it will fit . the case is a bit bigger and the discharge and intake flanges are bigger as well. so new couplers and all will be needed as well as some clearance issues may arise. the ysi is a pretty big boy , its equal to some of the series procharger . and should kick major ass. the other thing is belt drive , if it bolts up . you will need some serious drive for this thing. minumum 8 rib and imo thats not near enough . a cog or 10 rib will be needed and those will have to be full on custom setups. i know ati can do it because they did the 8 rib for my vortech . you will need a custom tensioner and the magnacharger one will work up to a 8 or 10 rib . the intercooler will also need some love as the paxton uncluded wont be up to the task of cooling that much more air efficiently. good luck , this was the route i would have gone had i kept the vortech blower setup . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddies-blk-intimidator-06 Posted February 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 you sent me a pm and like i said not sur eof what it will do as im not familiar with the paxtons ( almost identical to vortech's blowers) but if its the ysi vortech and the paxton was the same mount as the vortech ( cast bracket that has the alt and ps pumps on it )i dont think it will fit . the case is a bit bigger and the discharge and intake flanges are bigger as well. so new couplers and all will be needed as well as some clearance issues may arise. the ysi is a pretty big boy , its equal to some of the series procharger . and should kick major ass. the other thing is belt drive , if it bolts up . you will need some serious drive for this thing. minumum 8 rib and imo thats not near enough . a cog or 10 rib will be needed and those will have to be full on custom setups. i know ati can do it because they did the 8 rib for my vortech . you will need a custom tensioner and the magnacharger one will work up to a 8 or 10 rib . the intercooler will also need some love as the paxton uncluded wont be up to the task of cooling that much more air efficiently. good luck , this was the route i would have gone had i kept the vortech blower setup . about mounting, it will use same bracket as the paxton 1200 i am sure of that, and about the belt i already have 8 rib setup, and the magnuson belt tensioner,. i do have an s/c cog belt pulley but not the crank one, on the crank i got the ATI 10% overdrive 8 rib. but about my already installed air to water cooler not sure what can i do..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04CHASE Posted February 20, 2011 Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 i remember i was getting up there with iats . spinning that t trim but this blower may run more efficient and repoduce lower iat's with that i/c gotta try and see . give it a go and see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Interchange info - The Novi 1200, Novi 1500, and Vortech YSi all use identical mounting brackets. The Paxton Novi 1200 is a Vortech S-trim, but with a billet cover instead of a cast one. The Paxton Novi 1500 is a Vortech T-trim, but with a billet cover instead of a cast one. My opinion on your build - I am doubtful that a single Walbro-255 using the '06 returnless fuel system plumbing will feed a set of 80-pounders. You have waaaaay more injector than your fuel system can support, or your supercharger can use. As you say you have forged pistons and want to go fast, I would - 1. install -8AN fuel feed, and -6 fuel return with either a single large pump (preferred) or dual Walbro-255s 2. keep the 80# injectors you have 3. upgrade to the Vortech YSi supercharger 4. address supercharger drive issues, to combat belt slippage Do you have any logged runs? What level of boost/map pressures are you seeing, and what is your fuel pressure & injector duty cycle behavior like? Mr. P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddies-blk-intimidator-06 Posted March 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 Interchange info - The Novi 1200, Novi 1500, and Vortech YSi all use identical mounting brackets. The Paxton Novi 1200 is a Vortech S-trim, but with a billet cover instead of a cast one. The Paxton Novi 1500 is a Vortech T-trim, but with a billet cover instead of a cast one. My opinion on your build - I am doubtful that a single Walbro-255 using the '06 returnless fuel system plumbing will feed a set of 80-pounders. You have waaaaay more injector than your fuel system can support, or your supercharger can use. As you say you have forged pistons and want to go fast, I would - 1. install -8AN fuel feed, and -6 fuel return with either a single large pump (preferred) or dual Walbro-255s 2. keep the 80# injectors you have 3. upgrade to the Vortech YSi supercharger 4. address supercharger drive issues, to combat belt slippage Do you have any logged runs? What level of boost/map pressures are you seeing, and what is your fuel pressure & injector duty cycle behavior like? Mr. P. i already got and installed a vortech v-7 ysi , and a mondo bypass valve, much more diference. and in your recomendations i am lost in the #1 any link or how to?????? thnkx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 (edited) i already got and installed a vortech v-7 ysi , and a mondo bypass valve, much more diference. and in your recomendations i am lost in the #1 any link or how to?????? thnkx Awesome I want to do that myself, in the far future; for now I must make-do with the Novi-1500! There's no how-to, you are going to have to design your own. The good thing, is that the fuel pump/bucket opening in the tank is so monstrously big you can easily get a bunch of hardware inside the tank! Random thoughts/ideas, in no order: Modifications in-tank - totally depends on whether you are using a single or multiple pump setup. If you are using multiple pumps, you can eletrically switch the extra pumps to only kick-on when going into boost, to save wear & tear and keep the fuel from getting hot via circulation. With multiple pump setups, you need to make sure that the pump outlets have one-way-valving, so that a neighbor pump cannot push backwards through one of the others... I would prefer a large single pump (in-tank preferably) because if you have a pump failure it won't run the motor lean (it'll just die) whereas if you have multiple pumps and one goes lean then you will run lean (have low fuel pressure & then detonation); you can wire multiple pumps to quit if pressure fails but this gets complicated pretty fast and now there are large intank pumps that I think will deliver the kind of fuel supply you now need. You will have to drill the fuel pump module and install a -8 bulkhead fitting. The actual fuel line plumbing I would do a bit differently than most do, both to save money and have a cleaner install. What I would do is, from the #8 bulkhead run hard line (1/2" aluminum tubing) to the frame rail all the way up to where the brake ABS unit is (where the stock fuel line manifold 'jumps' onto the back of the transmission) and at that point install a 1-ft section of flexible rubber hose (-8AN), then run another solid 3-ft length of aluminum tubing along the spine of the transmission directly to the fuel rail; that way the only rubber line & fittings are where you need them, to allow for driveline movement. I would then re-purpose the OE 3/8" steel line as your fuel return line; at the fuel tank, you will have to change that factory 3/8" plumbing to use a -6 AN bulkhead which shoots the return fuel straight down into the pump bucket, so that bucket is full all the time during launch, turns, etc. If I were doing your project, I would get rid of the in-tank fuel pressure regulator & filter, and run the pump output straight out the tank and install a serviceable external fuel filter on the frame rail (like the 1999-2003 trucks) and an honest boost-referenced fuel pressure regulator in the return line, and retune the injector flow rate table (IFR) to suit. OR you can shortcut all this DIY and call Lonnies or Trick and buy a ready-to-install kit, they are well thought out but $$$. Mr. P. One other thing - run 10-gauge wire (or 12-gauge maybe?) all the way back to the fuel pump, it's probably easiest to use a relay to do this but you want to assure no voltage drop at the pump! Edited March 28, 2011 by Mr. P. (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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