feece08 Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Just dropped mytruck off at the muffler shop! Question, I putting in two fake cats going to an x pipe then to 2 dynomax race bullets with turn downs by the axle. Were should I have him weld the sensor? In the x pipe? Should I have two sensors? And the old cats have those sensors in them am I gong to have to pull the cables going to them and delete them from the pcm? Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruiser04 Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Just dropped mytruck off at the muffler shop! Question, I putting in two fake cats going to an x pipe then to 2 dynomax race bullets with turn downs by the axle. Were should I have him weld the sensor? In the x pipe? Should I have two sensors? And the old cats have those sensors in them am I gong to have to pull the cables going to them and delete them from the pcm? Thanks guys. put the wideband sensor right after the collector in ur headers..... this is assuming u have LT's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 You don't need 2 WB02 sensors; you will see very little difference in WB readings if the sensor is installed in the driver's pipe, passenger's pipe, or the shared X-crossover pipe. This is *my take* on the subject of WB02 sensor mounting - the further away from the motor the sensor is, the longer the delay will be in logging changes in AFR; so if the sensor is mounted at the back bumper then the logging software will show the WB02 'trace' about 1/2-second (or more) after the commanded AFR, you will see the PCM make a fueling change and then after 1/2-second later *finally* the WB02 reports the situation after the AFR change. So I like the WB02 sensor mounted as close to the motor as possible, that way when reviewing tuning logs the PCM's commanded AFR line will line-up much more nicely with the WB02 reading trace. My WB02 sensor is located at the driver's collector and with driving and tuning I can see that the WB02 reading is about 1-2 frames behind the commanded AFR. If you want simplicity, it is perfectly OK to put the WB02 sensor in place of one of the rear O2 sensors. Rear O2's - you can leave the sensors in place, or remove them at your discretion; either way, you must disable them via tuning or you will always have the check-engine light on and fail emissions testing because the EPA flag is tripped. Mr. P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruiser04 Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 You don't need 2 WB02 sensors; you will see very little difference in WB readings if the sensor is installed in the driver's pipe, passenger's pipe, or the shared X-crossover pipe. This is *my take* on the subject of WB02 sensor mounting - the further away from the motor the sensor is, the longer the delay will be in logging changes in AFR; so if the sensor is mounted at the back bumper then the logging software will show the WB02 'trace' about 1/2-second (or more) after the commanded AFR, you will see the PCM make a fueling change and then after 1/2-second later *finally* the WB02 reports the situation after the AFR change. So I like the WB02 sensor mounted as close to the motor as possible, that way when reviewing tuning logs the PCM's commanded AFR line will line-up much more nicely with the WB02 reading trace. My WB02 sensor is located at the driver's collector and with driving and tuning I can see that the WB02 reading is about 1-2 frames behind the commanded AFR. If you want simplicity, it is perfectly OK to put the WB02 sensor in place of one of the rear O2 sensors. Rear O2's - you can leave the sensors in place, or remove them at your discretion; either way, you must disable them via tuning or you will always have the check-engine light on and fail emissions testing because the EPA flag is tripped. Mr. P. well said, this also where my wideband sensor is located Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04CHASE Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 also dont face the bung in the 6 o clock position or close. i forgot the clocked angles recomended but keeping the sensor in the top portion of the pipe is crucial for sensor life as water will get into it and ruin it quickly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feece08 Posted February 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2011 cool thanks for the input. ill talk to the dude tomrrow about puttin it before the x pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feece08 Posted February 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2011 so i have the sensor wired up on the passenger side right before the cat..seems to be staying around 14ish. but when i get on it and stay on it for a sec, it pegs out at 10...is this normal does it have to be calibrated or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted February 25, 2011 Report Share Posted February 25, 2011 You need a tune. At idle, you desire stochiometric (14.7:1); at WOT without boost most tuners shoot for 12.3 - 12.8 to 1; above 4-psi boost, you want 11.8:1. Anything richer than about 11.5:1 is wasting fuel for little benefit. If your AFR is in the 10's, it's definitely rich and if in the low-10s it will be so rich that you risk missfire and/or washing the engine oil off the cylinder walls. Mr. P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feece08 Posted February 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2011 perfect...lol do you think i should get it on the dyno like it already has been...or send it out to wheatley? the new engine is past its breakin period now so i think i could get more out of it this time around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 In your project, I would get a good tuner like one would hire a good lawyer - find the best, pay him what he's worth, and do what he tells you! Find a person that is competent to tune your truck that you can also work with and will support your efforts! Mr. P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feece08 Posted March 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2011 okay so my truck is over at slowhawk in mass right now. don said the tune was going pretty well until....he said he think he found an issue with the fuel system. every time you floor it it goes pretty lean. its got 60lb injectors so he said he doesnt think its that, but theres no inline fuel pump..i gues most SC kits come with one? idk just seeing if any of ya had any input...or possibly a price for a pump. BTW it has a procharger on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruiser04 Posted March 3, 2011 Report Share Posted March 3, 2011 u def. need a fuel pump upgrade with F\I if u didnt install one with the procharger i would def do it now..... i got the magnusson intank pump i think it was like 100 bucks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feece08 Posted March 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 u def. need a fuel pump upgrade with F\I if u didnt install one with the procharger i would def do it now..... i got the magnusson intank pump i think it was like 100 bucks yea i talked to don today over at slowhawk. he said that he cant put an inline fuel pump on but they make an aftermarcket voltage "thingy" that switches the pump from 12 voltz to 17 as soon as the boost goes to 4psi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chpspecial Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 yea i talked to don today over at slowhawk. he said that he cant put an inline fuel pump on but they make an aftermarcket voltage "thingy" that switches the pump from 12 voltz to 17 as soon as the boost goes to 4psi. don't just do the "thingy" call magnacharger or racetronix and get the intank fuel pump for the 04+ trucks with a returnless system. Then get the kennebell Boost-A-pump = thingy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feece08 Posted March 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 don't just do the "thingy" call magnacharger or racetronix and get the intank fuel pump for the 04+ trucks with a returnless system. Then get the kennebell Boost-A-pump = thingy lol yea he said he was putting in the kenny bell ssystem. i dont think hes doing the intank pump though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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