Engine Rebuilt By Machine Shop, Now Engine Knocks!

[sprayed99]

You do not have to drop the cross member.

You do have to remove the water pump, intake piping, dampener (pressed on to the crank snout, remove with a 3 jaw puller and your existing crank bolt, then use a longer M16 bolt to get it all the way off) and timing chain cover. To get the timing chain cover off you have to remove the bolts in the front along with two bolts that are on the bottom that also secures a wiring holder. You have to remove two bell housing bolts that go to the oil pan also. Loosen the oil pan bolts about a half an inch all the way around, and it should lower down far enough to get access to the oil pick up tube to pump bolt. The bolt is on the underside of the pump and is a PITA to remove and get back in. a trick I use is: use a 10mm ratcheting flexhead wrench, and when the wrench can't get to it anymore and your fingers are hurting take a piece of wire (bailing or hardwire of some sort) and put a 180* bend in the end with about a half inch of excess. Wrap it around the bolt threads and take some needle nose pliers and tighten the wire around the threads making sure that it is butted up against the head on the bolt. The bolt won't fall in the oil pan, and you can use it as a wrench. ( Stuff some rags in the front opening of the oil pan too just in case you drop something in there.) Now put your finger on the bolt head, and start turning the wire like a wrench till it's out. Now you can take the oil pump bolts that are going into the block out. Pry or push down on the oil pump pick up tube while rotating the pump clockwise and toward you. The pump will come out, and you will see the o-ring either on the pick up tube, or in the pump inlet hole.

 

 

BTW when you get a o-ring from the dealer also get a new crank bolt. They are torque to yield bolts meant for one time use. Some have used them multiple times but some have had them fail too. They are cheap too.

 

 

Actually you can remove the cross member to remove the oil pan. He doesn't have to pull off the pump to change the o-ring. He can remove the oil pan and then have full access to the pick up tube which is held on by 2 nuts from the studs on the crank scraper. Once you have pulled the pick up tube you can then verify which o ring you need. This is a very simple job. You also have to remove the very bottom 2 transmission bellhousing bolts because they are also holding the pan. The oil pan in the LS engines is a very "structural part". If you really wanted to you could also add a .080 spacer on the bottom side of the relief spring for the plunger valve. this is all they do when they shim a LS6 oil pump. This alone will increase oil pressure by as much as 10psi at idle.

[mikecite7]

New Red O-Ring ......Problem fixed.... Wow I can't believe a Red O-Ring would fix so much trouble.... It had the green one on it.........The guy at the engine shop was amazed.... He added it to his book of notes! Thanks so much.....for all the responses..... I knew it was not piston slap because like I said I have heard engines with piston slap...

 

Now I gotta track down a low voltage to cam sensor "sometimes takes 2-3 times to start" and the abs sensors are setting off the dinger when i put it in gear... if it is not one thing its another.....lol

[Cramer]

Change your oil asap too. Also check your oil and filter for alot of shavings or anything that shouldn't be in there. You could still have done some bearing damage or lifter damage. Glad that's what was wrong. Glad to help too.

[misterp]

Thanks for sharing your experience - I am very glad for you, that you found & fixed the issue.

 

Mr. P.