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Rear Brake Squeal With Hawk Lts Pads


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Ok, here we go..

 

This has been an ongoing problem for the past 6 months. How it started, I needed rear brake pads. So I bought the Hawk LTS 385Y.640 pads and Centric premium 120.66041 rotors that a shop bought and put on. Squealed and grinding like it was metal on metal. The shop blame it on the fiction material of the pad and that the rear was high performance and the front was stock. So I replaced the front with the same setup as the rear and the front hasn't squealed once. Took it back to the shop to redo the rear brakes and I noticed the pad was overhanging the rotor, they just sanded it down flat and didn't think nothing of it. This time they put brake quiet on the back of the pads. Still grinding and squealing at low speed stops. So I searched these forums and found that the shop put the wrong rotors on. They were 325mm instead of 330mm, the right rotor is 120.66045. I was done with that shop and did my brake job to the tee by cleaning all components, replacing the brake hardware, sanded with 150 then 320 on the rotors to take off the pad material, did the same with brake pads so it was a smooth surface, locktite brake quiet to the back of the pads, greased all metal to metal contact points and bedded in to Hawks instructions twice. They still squeal at low speeds but no grinding because of the right size rotors. I'm about to give up on these pads, does anyone have any suggestions? One other note, I noticed the inboard pad was worn on an angle, guessing do to the wrong size rotor and sanded it close to flat but Hawk told me it was not nessesary and the pad will wear in to flat. My thinking was the pad should be evenly touching the rotor during bed in. Hawk says no, but I think the pads are beat do to being stressed on the wrong rotors, saw a light crack and rough chips by the edge which I sanded to smooth. Just strange that the front has the same setup and hasn't made any noise.

Edited by highvoltamps (see edit history)
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The set of Hawk pads I had on my truck was the worst set of pads I have ever had, i'll never buy them again. Sounds to me like you need another set of rear pads, the crack and burrs on the edge are enough to cause some squeaking at low speeds, and usually a cracked pad is the sign of an overheated pad. The inboard pad always wears a bit faster then the outboard pad, that is normal. Machine the rotors and install new pads and you should be fine........

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Thanks for the help guys. I spoke to justin at Hawk and he says the pads are defective and going to cover those pads under warranty. Going to try one more time installing these pads, just strange that the front has the same setup with no problems. Hopefully being installed for months on the wrong rotors messed them up...

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New pads are on and bedded them in this morning. No noise so far but I don't like how the bed in wear is on the rotor. About 3/4 of the rotor width transferred the brake material and the bottom 1/4 still looks the same. I'm going to try to bed in one more time tomorrow and see what happens. I didn't resurface the rotors b/c they are only a month old. I used a sanding block with 120 grit to take off the old transfer material.

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Oh no, the rear brake squeal is back but not as bad. I noticed the wear is mainly on the middle of the rotor with some scoring marks but still smooth. Think the squealing is brake dust from an uneven surface on the rotor. Should have waited to put the new pads on with the new rotors. I think I need the rotors resufaced from the old pads not wearing flat or I need new calipers or new brake pads. Just don't understand why the front has the same setup and has not made any noise and the rotor wear is even from top to bottom.

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I think you arleady figured out your answer, as you stated, you should have cut the rotors before installing the new pads. New pads + old scored/warped/worn rotor surface = noise, glazing, improper pad bedding, and premature pad wear......

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I think you arleady figured out your answer, as you stated, you should have cut the rotors before installing the new pads. New pads + old scored/warped/worn rotor surface = noise, glazing, improper pad bedding, and premature pad wear......

 

 

Yeah but do you think they can already be messed up after 3 weeks of use with the old pads. I took a sanding block with 120 grit and took of the old transfer film and they looked near new again.

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Yeah but do you think they can already be messed up after 3 weeks of use with the old pads. I took a sanding block with 120 grit and took of the old transfer film and they looked near new again.

 

Doesn't take much, 1 day of stop and go driving will do it....

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Doesn't take much, 1 day of stop and go driving will do it....

 

 

Good to know thanks. That makes sense, since I changed the pads and rotors on the front at the same time and had no problems. I'm going to get the rotors resurfaced. Do you think I can salvage the pads by sanding them down flat?

Edited by highvoltamps (see edit history)
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Good to know thanks. That makes sense, since I changed the pads and rotors on the front at the same time and had no problems. I'm going to get the rotors resurfaced. Do you think I can salvage the pads by sanding them down flat?

 

Yes, sand them lightly with 80 grit sandpaper and repeat the bedding process with the freshly cut rotors.....

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Yes, sand them lightly with 80 grit sandpaper and repeat the bedding process with the freshly cut rotors.....

 

 

Thanks good buddy. Since you know your brakes, I got one more for you. The shop that did my brakes used an air gun to tighten the caliper bolts and now the the one side both spin when tightened. I have to put channels around the pin and tighten the bolts. Is this bad pins or the caliper?

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