hondaeater Posted June 12, 2011 Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 i want all the input/feedback i can get on this ok so the reason for all of this is, last week my buddy is going to college for auto mechanics so i figured i would let him help me out on changing my knock sensors, that went well now it came time to putting the intake manifold back on and i let him torque everything down while i took a smoke break, he fails to mention there is a missing intake manifold bolt and right when i fired it up could tell there was something wrong he decides to tell me theres a bolt missing and so on, pulled the manifold back off and sure enough stuck in the intake valve on cylinder 6 was planning fixing that myself seeing as its an arm and a leg to have a shop do it but seeing as i have to take the heads off to get it machined out i might as well rebuild the motor and build it, my transmission is fully built so thats not an issue just don't know what to run as far as cams/heads/springs/lifters? so all help, numbers, and figures would be nice horsepower range i would like to be in the 600-700 all motor and that would be the bolt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSplaytoy Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 You're buddy needs more experience and needs to be more careful and observant. Are you planning a nitrous or boosted build or gonna go n/a? How much of a budget do you have? I would go 408 with whatever you choose and then pick a cam and heads to support your build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hottelboy Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 horsepower range i would like to be in the 600-700 all motor At the wheels? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hondaeater Posted June 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 horsepower range i would like to be in the 600-700 all motor At the wheels? at the wheels in the 600hp the transimission just got a full build and its warrantied out under the transmission shop if i manage to burn it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hondaeater Posted June 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 You're buddy needs more experience and needs to be more careful and observant. Are you planning a nitrous or boosted build or gonna go n/a? How much of a budget do you have? I would go 408 with whatever you choose and then pick a cam and heads to support your build. the budget part is undetermined at the moment seeing as i have everything paid off, and more then likely a nitrous build i was planning on building up off the stock block seeing as you can squeeze a pretty good amount of horsepower/torque out of them and as far as my buddy goes he's going to college in 2 months for diesel mechanics i feel sorry for the vehicle he works on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hottelboy Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 Everyone started that way man! Only a few will admit it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hondaeater Posted June 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 i have contacted wheatley and he said he could help me figure out what i need but not an answer yet but he is a busy man and does great work so i'll give him time even though im on a deadline Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hottelboy Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 (edited) i have contacted wheatley and he said he could help me figure out what i need but not an answer yet but he is a busy man and does great work so i'll give him time even though im on a deadline Do your research, Wheatley WAS my tuner. Ask a lot of questions before you pick a tuner!!!!! Ask everyone you see on here, find builds like your planning to build and ask why they have the tuner they have,if they would change, and so on. I didnt ask enough questions to people. If you would like to start with me, 2bfast, zach89, CHPSPECIAL,mr.P,sprayed99,kcsilveradoss,ZIPPY,shadowsniper,KRAMBO. There are a lot of people on here willing to tell you who and why they have done what they have done. *****IMPORTANT***** YOU HAVE TO ASK THEM! **The guys in CAPS also tune** also Shadowsniper has the fastest N/A pass and has put in some serious time doing so, if I was n/a thats who I'd be bothering. Edited June 13, 2011 by hottelsss (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hondaeater Posted June 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 Do your research, Wheatley WAS my tuner. Ask a lot of questions before you pick a tuner!!!!! Ask everyone you see on here, find builds like your planning to build and ask why they have the tuner they have,if they would change, and so on. I didnt ask enough questions to people. If you would like to start with me, 2bfast, zach89, CHPSPECIAL,mr.P,sprayed99,kcsilveradoss,ZIPPY,shadowsniper,KRAMBO. There are a lot of people on here willing to tell you who and why they have done what they have done. *****IMPORTANT***** YOU HAVE TO ASK THEM! **The guys in CAPS also tune** also Shadowsniper has the fastest N/A pass and has put in some serious time doing so, if I was n/a thats who I'd be bothering. thanks for the advice Hottel, ive talked to Shadow he gave me some realitivly good advice on what works as far as burning a SH*T of oil, and what would be my best bet for a set up seeing as its gonna be my daily driver for a while, forgot to call Zippy this morning been busy with work, sorta realizing 500-600hp is my best bet for a daily driver with a 125 shot cant decide whether to run wet or dry, but definatly gonna keep asking around alot of people have told me what heads i should run and go from there with the cam and so on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsniper3006 Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 Call Zippy at night, around 8-9pm central works best, he should be off work by then. Wet kit. Kevin(KRAMBO) has a dry shot on his truck stacked with a wet kit, so he's a great guy to talk nitrous to. I think overall tuning(NA/wet kit vs. NA/dry kit) and nitrous preformance will be better with a wet kit, and safer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2bfast Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 Do your research, werd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Procelll Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 You can get alot of good information of here and asking the guys with first hand experience on it helps alot too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsniper3006 Posted June 17, 2011 Report Share Posted June 17, 2011 (edited) 500- 600 rwhp is an easier(cheaper) goal to get. Like i said, my buddy runs just over 500 with a lq9 taken to a 427 and the drivablity is awesome. More torque then it knows what to do with, i've put a lot of miles on his truck and of coarse my truck.......his truck is sooooo much nicer to drive with the larger cubic inches. Like i said, the oil problem comes in with the 4.125 stroke and the 6.125/6.2 rod, if you go with a 4 inch stroke you'll be fine for oiling, but that only gets you a 414 ci with a maxed out bore on the stock block. Still plenty good, and still more then capable of 500 to the wheels. But if you go with a LSX block, you can increase the bore and maintain the 4.0 stroke to get the CI you need for the 550+ hp and still be streetable. Also, like i said, i would be interested to see what zippy thinks about a 4.125 stroke crank with the 6.067 long ls7 titanuim rod. That may just be the answer to getting the larger 457 ci motor but maybe not getting the oil burning due to the shorter rod keeping the wrist pin lower then the standard 6.125 rod. You'll lose the mechanical advantage of the longer rod, but get the larger cubic inches, which i would think would be worth it. But thats just a theory that needs to be run past zippy. A 4.125 stroke with a 6.125 rod causes oil burning problems, thats .125 longer stroke and a .127 longer rod then stock(6.098 stock), that moves the wrist pin up .252 up on the piston. A 4.125 stroke with a 6.067 rod would move the wrist pin up .094 on the piston(6.098 stock-6.067 ls7= .031 shorter)(4.125-4.0=.125 longer stroke therefore moving the wrsit pin up)(.125 longer stroke-.031 shorter rod=.094 movement of the wrist pin up VS .252)., maybe this helps the oil buring and gets you the power of the large cubic inch motor. This may involve customs pistons for wrist pin location, but if i could get 457 Ci and not get oil use... Guys feel free to correct me if any of my numbers/theory is wrong. And the larger bore of the LSX block will be critical to use the larger runner trick flow heads to make the power you want and keep the cam reasonable for street manners and wear on parts. Edited June 17, 2011 by shadowsniper3006 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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