shadow308 Posted November 19, 2011 Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 Ive got a stock 1500 ss 2003, 120,000 miles. it had been hesitating in 3rd gear, it keep getting worse. I just changed fluid and filter, it shifts thru 1st 2nd and when it goes to third it tries to shift and then engine revs and I let off the fuel and it goes back to 2nd. I can floor it and it will shift through. when I manually shift, 1st and 2nd fine 3rd and 4th it pulls up to about 35 mph and then engine revs. Could it be a shifting selinoid? and I had a scanner put on it and it said EVAP control valve selinod was bad, I assume that wouldnt have nothing to do with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2bfast Posted November 19, 2011 Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 Ive got a stock 1500 ss 2003, 120,000 miles. it had been hesitating in 3rd gear, it keep getting worse. I just changed fluid and filter, it shifts thru 1st 2nd and when it goes to third it tries to shift and then engine revs and I let off the fuel and it goes back to 2nd. I can floor it and it will shift through. when I manually shift, 1st and 2nd fine 3rd and 4th it pulls up to about 35 mph and then engine revs. Could it be a shifting selinoid? and I had a scanner put on it and it said EVAP control valve selinod was bad, I assume that wouldnt have nothing to do with it. 3/4 clutches are most likely slipping. Pull the pan and see whats at the bottom and report back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadow308 Posted November 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 3/4 clutches are most likely slipping. Pull the pan and see whats at the bottom and report back I pulled Pan last night and changed filter and fluid, fluid didnt really smell burnt. But the pan had 1/4 inch or more of sludge and when I examine it , it's like grease with a dark silver tint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2bfast Posted November 19, 2011 Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 (edited) I pulled Pan last night and changed filter and fluid, fluid didnt really smell burnt. But the pan had 1/4 inch or more of sludge and when I examine it , it's like grease with a dark silver tint. Fluid doesnt ness. have to be burned. The "sludge" you are seeing is most likely clutch material. Time to remove the transmission and see whats going on internally Edited November 19, 2011 by 2BFAST (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sswake Posted November 19, 2011 Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 I'm with 2BFast, sounds like the 3/4 clutches. That's exactly what mine did and it was the 3/4. It's at FLT now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawnss Posted November 19, 2011 Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 This was the story of my life for the last 2 years. went through 1 stock 4l60 and 2 built 4l60s mine all ended up doing the same thing. burning up 3/4th clutch's. its time to yank your tranny and go through it. i switched to a 4l80 and haven't had a problem so far. not saying a 4l80 is the cream of the crop and can't be broken but so far my stock 4l80 has out lasted my 2 built 60s. plus i love the new billet circle d 3200-3400 stall good luck. its really not that bad. its just a matter of pulling it. i have done 2 of my 4 tranny swaps by myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted November 19, 2011 Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 I agree that it is likely the 3-4 clutches wiped out. It's a shame with yours shawnss, I think yours were mostly killed from tuning rather than power. As you've seen on here, 12's isn't that hard to get a 65E to hold up to. A truck with good tuning and a stock trans will outlast a truck with a built trans and poor tuning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadow308 Posted November 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 Whats the chances of just getting by with a new clutch pack, or do I need total rebuild Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawnss Posted November 20, 2011 Report Share Posted November 20, 2011 (edited) Whats the chances of just getting by with a new clutch pack, or do I need total rebuild well one down fall to doing it this way is that you already have the trans out. personally i'd just rebuild it. im not saying a full on rebuild of every piece. i'd replace all the wear type parts in there just to be safe. its kinda like draining your oil but not changing the filter. not saying it can't be done by just replacing the clutch disk/pack's. its just while your in there you should just replace it. plus if your already paying labor you should get it all done. it would be the shits if you just paid a bunch of money and then 6 months down the road it fails again. this is just my opinion. really the parts for the transmission aren't that pricey it's the labor your going to pay somebody to do thats costly. Edited November 20, 2011 by shawnss (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2bfast Posted November 20, 2011 Report Share Posted November 20, 2011 its just while your in there you should just replace it. really the parts for the transmission aren't that pricey it's the labor your going to pay somebody to do thats costly. Not always, depending on the failure trans parts can add up quick. Also some of those packs you really dont "have" to replace I .E forward, reverse, low/reverse depending upon inspection from progressive damage. Although if these frictions need replaced, installing performance frictions in these areas are overkill and that money can be spent else where. Frictions that will need attention, 2/4 apply band along with a new reverse drum, obvious 3/4s, and overruns. Also need to pay attention to the molded pistons in the input drum. There are a lot of ways to build a transmission, but at 120k miles the only way you will know what you really need to replace is after teardown and inspection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted November 21, 2011 Report Share Posted November 21, 2011 Whats the chances of just getting by with a new clutch pack, or do I need total rebuild At this point because of your situation, and the mileage on the transmission, it would be best to replace all the frictions, bands, and have the rest of the trans given a once over while its out. The transmission is definitely not something to repair "half ass" so to speak..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2bfast Posted November 21, 2011 Report Share Posted November 21, 2011 (edited) it would be best to replace all the frictions, bands, and have the rest of the trans given a once over while its out. Why would you replace all the frictions when 3 out of the 5 dont have to be unless progressivly damaged?? There are a few areas you can get away with re-using parts so if they look good reuse them. And there is only one band in a 60...... edit: if you are a known company such as FLT or RPM you would get all new frictions for warranty purposes Edited November 21, 2011 by 2BFAST (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krambo Posted November 21, 2011 Report Share Posted November 21, 2011 With the mileage on your transmission, confirmed wear (material in the pan) and the need to pull it...I would do a complete overhaul. If you are not doing the R&R yourself, a good chunk of cost is in just that...now would be the time to replace all the wear parts (clutches / bands etc.). I suspect all will need to be replaced anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goosalandi29 Posted December 13, 2011 Report Share Posted December 13, 2011 This was the story of my life for the last 2 years. went through 1 stock 4l60 and 2 built 4l60s mine all ended up doing the same thing. burning up 3/4th clutch's. its time to yank your tranny and go through it. i switched to a 4l80 and haven't had a problem so far. not saying a 4l80 is the cream of the crop and can't be broken but so far my stock 4l80 has out lasted my 2 built 60s. plus i love the new billet circle d 3200-3400 stall good luck. its really not that bad. its just a matter of pulling it. i have done 2 of my 4 tranny swaps by myself. I was wondering how hard it was, and what you need to do to make the 4l80e work in the silverado ss? This will be the third stock rebuild I have been through and I am getting frustrated. I have no motor work done and I am just looking to make my truck dependable again. The last rebuild is only at 30k miles and is slipping again from 3 to 4th. I am kinda hard on my truck sometimes but for the most part I am nice. Is it worth changing it or just upgrading my current transmission. Keep in mind I don't plan to do any motor work in the future either, but I do tow a 3,500lb boat from time to time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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