skrlin Posted April 12, 2013 Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 (edited) Just had a quick question my brakes on my SSS get into temps of 250F almost 300F in the rear with normal driving, I also noticed stress cracks on my rear rotors from excessive heat. Just recently I took apart the rears to install pads to find the drivers side caliper sliding pin to be stuck, fixed it up installed new grease yada yada. I also removed the parking brake lines/drum style assembly to elimate any other drag on the system. Also noticed with the increased temps that the grease for the sliding pins/contact points is turning orange from the heat! I have not bled the system yet but curious as to know if air in the system might cause a drag on the brakes causing my rotors to get HOT. Would like some insight on this, could this be a proportioning valve/master cylinder issues as well? All input is greatly appreciated. Thanks. Edited April 12, 2013 by skrlin (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted April 12, 2013 Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 Have you checked to make sure the pistons in the caliper aren't hanging up? Sounds like a caliper may be freezing up..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downeast Johnny Posted April 12, 2013 Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 Air in the system should not pressurize the calipers. If you still have the overheating problem after re-greasing the guide pins I think that Fireman is probably correct in his assessment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aldofashow Posted April 12, 2013 Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 Sounds like new calipers would not hurt get oem autozone and advance are not even close to your oem Quality steel calipers instead of your stock aluminum ones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chpspecial Posted April 12, 2013 Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 The purpose of brakes is to convert kinetic energy into heat... In doing so, the work done causes the stopping action of brakes. Heat is necessary for brakes to work.. the more heat they can absorb and dissipate the better they work and faster they stop. Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skrlin Posted April 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 When I put the rear pads in the rear the pistons seemed to move alright when backing them out for the new pads. Could it still be the calipers regardless of they moved back alright? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted April 12, 2013 Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 If the piston moves like it should, then it could the slide pins you talked about being stuck. If the hole in the bracket is rusting etc the pins can seize with heat. I only use high grade synthetic high temp brake grease for those, I pack it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted April 12, 2013 Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 (edited) When I put the rear pads in the rear the pistons seemed to move alright when backing them out for the new pads. Could it still be the calipers regardless of they moved back alright? Yessir, that happened to me. Everything was fine when I did a front brake job on the SS, but I had one of the 2 pistons freeze up on the drivers caliper shortly after. I wound up frying a brand new set of EBC rotors and pads only 500 miles into their life..... Edited April 12, 2013 by Fireman31 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blick05SS Posted April 13, 2013 Report Share Posted April 13, 2013 The 1 thing over looked a lot is your brake hoses as well if there is a failure there they can let fluid in but not out not saying thats your issue but definately something to look into Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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