Ktownsitdown Posted December 12, 2013 Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 I'm in the planning process for my engine build. I am going to build in two stages for monetary reasons NA in stage 1 Then later adding FI. I'm looking for opinions about Displacement on Demand and Variable valve timing. This is my daily driver and I put down 700 miles or so a week so mileage is a great factor/ influence on my build. I have a 6.0 block and plan to stroke to 408 with a target of 9.5 - 10 cr so that I can get descent performance until I can get blown. When I do add a blower I plan on a new cam that's designed for FI and I want to make my power in the rpm range I use the most. I'm looking for power starting around 1200 rpms and don't care to rev over 5500 for the most part. With all that said how viable are the dod lifters and or vvt cam to achieve the most power and still get some kind of mileage. I would really appreciate any advice from someone who has experience with either. I am using a Mega squirt processor that is going to be controlling both fuel and timming. I have the mega squirt already and have the sequential fuel board installed and am pretty sure it can controll both dod and vvt with modification ( info about tuning mega squirt is there it's just scattered so it's hard to digest ). Again any advice is very welcome. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadianVRss Posted December 12, 2013 Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 Umm I'm confused. We don't have DOD or VVT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ktownsitdown Posted December 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 Correct, I don't have dod or vvt either. however; I do have a bare ls block that is just itching to have one or both. As far as I can tell from the little bit of research I've done dod can be accplished by using dod lifters and valley pan then programming. Same with VVT. If I use the correct cam and plate the rest is in the tune. I would love to have 550 hp at the wheels and get mpg or better. It's like most things though, to get what you want your gonna lose what you have. I just am trying to make an informed decision. Is this what I really want? What are the down sides? I know the positive - mo fuel economy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ktownsitdown Posted December 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 ^ 20 mpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kissfans03ss Posted December 12, 2013 Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 I personally would get a beater that's good on gas and then just build the as especially if you are driving 700 miles a week. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2003_SuperSport Posted December 12, 2013 Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 700miles is to much for these rare trucks to be putting on every week... I have never had alot of money but I always saved and upgraded as I could afford to... I had a $700 92' delta 88' that drove as good as a and had a sound system, Had a little bit of rust, but put on over 40K with reg maintanence before I sold it with 220k miles for my next DD a 2001 buick century, then a jeep wrangler and now a 2006 SS Impala lol... So I went up the DD ladder but I sure still miss that 92' olds LOL... You can look like a bum during the week but look like a rock star on the weekends LOL... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ktownsitdown Posted December 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 I am a project manager for a property management / general contracting firm so my ride is one of my tools. Must be presentable and have a large trunk. I wish I could get away with a beater I would be rockin a hilux or something. I have a "grocery getter" for all things other than work but I spend 90% of my driving time in my "work truck" so I tend to spend more on it than my other vehicles. I typically get 400/500 k out of my work trucks - with good PM and a rebuild or two along the way it has worked for me so far. I am going to build a runner just trying to be mileage oriented as well. If Vettes can get 30 mpg on the highway why can't I try to achieve something close to that. I understand weight and aerodynamics aren't the same but the running gear is close enough that I should be able to eat a GT up at will and still get 20 mpg or better. Well that's my goal anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tburkdoll Posted December 12, 2013 Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 You should read into this build by Zippy... http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic/71059-my-mule-project/?hl=%2B408+%2Btahoe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MID12sSSS Posted December 13, 2013 Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 This guy is selling a DOD kit. Not sure if it'll help you or not. http://m.performancetrucks.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5170093#post5170093 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ktownsitdown Posted December 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 You should read into this build by Zippy... http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic/71059-my-mule-project/?hl=%2B408+%2Btahoe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ktownsitdown Posted December 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 Nice write up. That thread is from '11 how did the engine turn out? Last post I saw was from 11/11. That's def a direction I am interested in. Reliability is an absolute must. I'm not trying to turn 7 grand, I want a motor happy at 1800/2300 and is full on at 5500. Most of my travel is two lane county rds to and from work then some red light to red light right around most our properties. A little fun between job sites makes the day all worth while. I'm thinking a strong short block with the right cam ( need help ) and a good tune ( for better or worse I'm doing myself ) with the ability to save fuel in cruise situation will pay for itself. I have been studying Mega Squirt engine management systems for about three years now and bought one a year or so ago. Long story short it's just about time for me to dive in. The great thing about the system is I can install it as "read only" to begin with while a) it learns my engine and b) I become more secure with my ability to navigate the software. Then from there do a fuel only take over with a stand alone harness without modifying my stock harness. Simply unplug my stock injector pigtails and plugging MS to them with IAT WB 02 and Tps. At any time I can plug stock fuel back up. Once satisfied with my fuel map I can take over timing ( that's when the power can be gained) MS is easiest to set up with an external crank wheel and can again be plugged up without modding stock wiring. As long as I never mess with any of the GM sensors the stock computer will not realize it's not controlling the engine. the plan is to add duplicates. One for MS and let the stock ones be. Once control of both fuel and timing is with the MS controller I can build full VE Timing and fuel maps in real time ( just need a consistent driver while manning the laptop on some back roads to get her close enough to open the loop. With my Ms I have the sequential fuel daughter board as well as a modified board for controlling a 6E which can be further modded to control a 8E which will be a whole new venture tackled later. I just want to be able to control the engine at first. Best part is I always have the stock computer as a fail safe. I will have to have a tune put on the stock ECM just to make compatible with the modded engine but not looking to trick it out - just a fail safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ktownsitdown Posted December 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 That looks to be a DOD delete kit. I would need what he would have taken off: dod lifters and valley cover/ gaskets. Not sure yet exactly how it works but I think I understand that the valley gasket on a dod engine has ports to transfer oil pressure to activate/de-activate lifters. It's controlled electronically with variations of throttle position and engine load. At this point though I don't want to buy anything for the engine. I don't want to buy the first part until I know all the parts that are going to be used - still planning motor. Where I'm at now on my truck is brakes and suspension. I am super excited to have found this site and did so looking for brakes. Found the z-06 upgrade doing my research on my foundation. Exactly what I was looking for - mostly GM parts. I have already been in touch with Rudy and the brackets will be my first purchase to my build and it's right around the corner. I will be documenting the entire build. The only things I've done so far has been clean-up and minor personalization to the truck as purchased used. Just about time for tires and rims. Will have all the pieces for the brakes within a month or two as well as 3/3 drop using djm lower control arms slight tweak to loosen torsion bars, 1 7/8 fr sway 1" rr. Lowering leafs for the back. Shims and lowering shackles come with the kit and are optional to tune final ride height. Then a trip to alignment shop. Gotta get her stopping and turning before I getter moving faster. It's a fun little truck bone stock can't wait to get her moving right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linzerella Posted December 20, 2013 Report Share Posted December 20, 2013 Maybe you should message or call Zippy on it. That Tahoe is my daily driver and it's a champ for sure. We literally put that thing together and went on a 5000+ mile road trip the next day. Never had a problem to this day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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