rcapone Posted February 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 Getting that part delivered tomorrow morning! Should be a very ease fix since I don't have the case in the truck yet anyway. Good lookin out Johnny! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcapone Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 So much for thinking the Sonnax Pump plate would be an easy swap! ...Total pain in the ass! Had to press off both the bearings and gear from the shaft just to get to the plate, then press everything back on. The length of the shaft was what made it hard. I also checked the clearance of the Converter and Flywheel and installed the bolts. Chris from Circle D told me between 150 - 175 thousandths clearance was ideal (mine ended up being 157) but could be as little as 120 and no more than 200. Also had to trim the Inspection cover slightly to get it to fit. Also I attached some vacuum hose around the two 80e cooler lines for protection. The new lines look much better than trying to spice the old 60 lines IMO. Easy swap and inexpensive too. Both lines cost me around 50 bucks. Here's a few pics of my progress today... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcapone Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downeast Johnny Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 So much for thinking the Sonnax Pump plate would be an easy swap! ...Total pain in the ass! Had to press off both the bearings and gear from the shaft just to get to the plate, then press everything back on. The length of the shaft was what made it hard. I also checked the clearance of the Converter and Flywheel and installed the bolts. Chris from Circle D told me between 150 - 175 thousandths clearance was ideal (mine ended up being 157) but could be as little as 120 and no more than 200. Also had to trim the Inspection cover slightly to get it to fit. Also I attached some vacuum hose around the two 80e cooler lines for protection. The new lines look much better than trying to spice the old 60 lines IMO. Easy swap and inexpensive too. Both lines cost me around 50 bucks. Here's a few pics of my progress today... I've been wondering if you had been able to tie up your bro's lift long enough to get the part. Must not have taken long to get the kit.? So, I guess your not so happy I mentioned it, now huh? I had never heard that it was such a pain to change out and I haven't done the swap yet, myself. Good pics you got of the parts. Good idea about getting the new lines. Who did you order them from? I like your idea of chafe protection. A prophylactic is always a good idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcapone Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 (edited) I got lucky we've had crappy weather (12" of snow) and business @ Firestone has been slow. I'll have it finished up today as there's really only the crossmember to bolt up, install T. Case, both driveshafts add fluids and upload the 80e tune. Luckily, there's a Sonnax dealer in KC that delivered the part to the store yesterday around 1pm - The Cooler lines I got from Chevy and listed the part #'s in an earlier post. I guess I could have shortened that one line that goes into the cooler, but then I would have had to find a way to either flare the end or attach a compression coupling - decided it was too much of a pain in the ass to do that after actually connecting the lines at both ends and seeing the clearance being around 1/8" of an inch away from the upper part of the stationary steering assembly. Decided to use a rubber instead so it would desensitize my pipe and avoid premature bursting of hot fluid all over her undercarriage! Edited February 5, 2014 by L8ERBRO (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JC03SS Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Coming together nicely. Gonna be a whole new animal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downeast Johnny Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Decided to use a rubber instead so it would desensitize my pipe and avoid premature bursting of hot fluid all over her undercarriage! Now that is descriptive, right there. Paints a vivid picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcapone Posted February 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Coming together nicely. Gonna be a whole new animal. Thanks Jason...can't wait to drive it - We got 12" of snow so I'm keeping her at the shop until the roads clear. Got completely finished up today but didn't get a chance to test drive due to weather. If anyone has any input on the one pic where the 80 cooler lines are near the headers...They look kind of close to me and was wondering if I should do something there to help prevent them from heating up. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downeast Johnny Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Thanks Jason...can't wait to drive it - We got 12" of snow so I'm keeping her at the shop until the roads clear. Got completely finished up today but didn't get a chance to test drive due to weather. If anyone has any input on the one pic where the 80 cooler lines are near the headers...They look kind of close to me and was wondering if I should do something there to help prevent them from heating up. Any suggestions? Looks like it would be a pain in the butt job, but you could try some header wrap in that area. Only other thing I can think of is to try to hang a shield in there somehow. Hopefully there is some air movement past that spot while driving. I'd be a little worried about long stop and go driving though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brentd Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 You could use plug wire socks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JC03SS Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 You could use plug wire socks. Good idea or header wrap. Something to keep the heat off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downeast Johnny Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Are the socks tubes? I was thinking wrap because you wouldn't have to remove the lines to get it over the oil lines. (Or you could wrap the header at that spot, or wrap both). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcapone Posted February 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Awesome, thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brentd Posted February 8, 2014 Report Share Posted February 8, 2014 Are the socks tubes? I was thinking wrap because you wouldn't have to remove the lines to get it over the oil lines. (Or you could wrap the header at that spot, or wrap both). Yeah, they are tubes, but I would think that they would be a better option. They would fit perfectly around the tubing, and with small crimp style hose clamps on each end to secure them it would make for a nice clean install. It would be worth it to disconnect the lines for a short time to run them over the tubing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aldofashow Posted February 8, 2014 Report Share Posted February 8, 2014 (edited) My lines do the same with the ARH LT I used a piece of header wrap starting the wrap in between the lines as to help hold the wrap and separate the lines also instead of squeezing the lines together like metal on metal with the wrap and after wrapping I used a zip tie before and after the header to hold the wrap tight unless your under the truck you can't see it and thats what worked for me. Edited February 8, 2014 by Aldofashow (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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