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4l80e swap before tune


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Fotunatly to replace that gasket you won't have to pull it apart as far to get a new one in there. I wouldn't recommend any sealer in there with it though. When it comes to gaskets you either use sealer or gasket, but not both. When gaskets companies want sealer on the gasket it'll come with it impregnated into the gasket or with special instructions on a specific location such as on the oil pan corners for the engine itself where a gap may be present due to tolerances. Make sure to use Dexron 3 in the transfercase also and not AutoTrak fluid.

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Fotunatly to replace that gasket you won't have to pull it apart as far to get a new one in there. I wouldn't recommend any sealer in there with it though. When it comes to gaskets you either use sealer or gasket, but not both. When gaskets companies want sealer on the gasket it'll come with it impregnated into the gasket or with special instructions on a specific location such as on the oil pan corners for the engine itself where a gap may be present due to tolerances. Make sure to use Dexron 3 in the transfercase also and not AutoTrak fluid.

:huh:

Lol. I do the exact opposite. I know my service manual says to use AutoTrak II. I've been using that forever.

Should I switch to Dex 3??

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Fotunatly to replace that gasket you won't have to pull it apart as far to get a new one in there. I wouldn't recommend any sealer in there with it though. When it comes to gaskets you either use sealer or gasket, but not both. When gaskets companies want sealer on the gasket it'll come with it impregnated into the gasket or with special instructions on a specific location such as on the oil pan corners for the engine itself where a gap may be present due to tolerances. Make sure to use Dexron 3 in the transfercase also and not AutoTrak fluid.

Oh hell, I used Auto Trak 2 in the Transfer Case because I read somewhere where it was better than the dex. Is this a problem...what will happen if it stays in there?

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did you make sure both mating surfaces were really clean and smooth? Also, depending on if you modified your existing cross brace or bought one from PATC like I did, there could be a slight mis-alignment between the Trans. and Transfer Case. I know with the PATC cross brace I used, I had to ream out the holes quite a bit to get the Transfer Case to sit right...this is why I suggested you remove the cross brace in my previous response. Now granted, I had a trans. jack to hold up the Case, mounted the Transfer Case to the Transmission, THEN installed the cross brace. If you do it like I'm suggesting, you'll be able to see if the holes in the cross brace need to be reamed out or not. This will fix your problem!

Edited by L8ERBRO (see edit history)
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Ok, you're right, I just looked at some of my pics from my swap...I remember now - it was my cross member that was getting tweaked because the holes didn't line up perfectly.

 

the only other thing I can think of then is either the mating surfaces aren't completely clean or maybe it's the way you've tightened the bolts, but i'm pretty sure you would have thought to do it in a star pattern.

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Sorry to hear about your bad luck once it comes to it still leaking. once you had the t-case off did you check each mating surface to make sure it wasnt damaged? Unless the bolts are not tight enough. If both mating surfaces are free of any defects then I'm not sure what can be done other than using RTV. I see some guys dont like using it. But I do and I never have leak's. I can not stand a vehicle leaking any sort of fluid.

 

Here ya go give it a try if you can't get it to stop leaking. Like I said I apply a thin layer to each side on the paper gasket and then install it. I wait tell the RTV dry for a few hours before adding any fluid. http://www.permatex.com/about-us/news-events/press-releases/176-gear-oil-rtv-gasket-maker-designed-for-use-on-transfer-cases-and-differentials

 

heres another RTV made for automatic transmissions. it designed to not break down. http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-automatic-transmission-rtv-gasket-maker-detail

Edited by shawnss (see edit history)
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If you have a service manual that says to use AutoTrak it is either a poorly written manual or you aren't reading it correctly. The GM manual shows Dexron 3 for the manual shift transfercase's, AutoTrak for the transfercase's with auto 4wd option, Dexron 3 for electronic shift transfercase's without auto 4wd (such as 2500HD and 3500 series trucks), and Dexron 3 in the AWD transfercase's. The Dexron 3 was later replaced in transmission use by the Dexron 6 so from GM you can still purchase Dexron 3 in the form of Manual Transmission and Transfercase fluid. The only AWD cases that use AutoTrak is the small run of Astro van and T series trucks/utilies built with the clutch system used in the AutoTrak cases that only applies when the computer calculates the rear tires spinning. The AutoTrak fluid and Dex 3 are so close in chemical base that you will see no problem at all in running it in place of the Dex 3. The AutoTrak fluid is basicly a Dex3 with some special friction modifiers in it and blue dye. I learned all about this as I was working at the dealer when this fluid was developed and took the classes on it as well as the Dex 6.

 

As for the leak, it sounds as if you may have a surface issue of it not being clean enough or it wasn't tightened without load on it. Another thing that can create a leak with it is if you use RTV on that gasket. I have had to fix a few that people have put RTV on that gasket during a trans swap and created a leak. If your two surfaces are clean and you tighten it well without load on it you should have no leaks. Make sure you don't have a leak on the case itself which can happen also.

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It could be the load part. I used a jack to lift it up in place, but after I got it in place with the bolts in and nuts started then I removed the jack so I could get to the nuts since I was doing it with the truck on the ground while laying on my back.

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