FalconPilot Posted October 20, 2004 Report Share Posted October 20, 2004 I can not take credit for this mod. It has been done before, but I have real numbers to back it up. The testing was done with a G-tech, averaging 4 bi-directional runs. I now have a sub 15 second SS with a cap on the back. The only other mod is a Westers tune. Average times: 0-60 6.45, 1/4 mile speed 93.5, 14.93 seconds at 50 deg f, 100% humidity, wet surface, 560' above sea level, 3007"hg altimeter. After messing around with different intake configurations, (stock and aftermarket) I finally came up with one that works. Remove the plate under the stock air box. Cut a 6" hole in the bottom of the box Run a piece of hose from this hole to the right "brake cooler scoop". (I used Scat tube from the aviation industry. It will not cave in under mild suction) This is the only intake mod I have ever done that acutally gave me a real increase in performance. Mileage figures will be posted after I get a good hold on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iudex Posted October 20, 2004 Report Share Posted October 20, 2004 Gave up on the King Kobra Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m396 #00-011 Posted October 20, 2004 Report Share Posted October 20, 2004 I just removed the bottom box and steel pan completely. I fastened a K&N drop-in filter to the top lid, and bracketed it in place. When I want to race, I pull the front headlight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6.0ss Posted October 20, 2004 Report Share Posted October 20, 2004 When I I had my Evolution I ran into this same problem. Aftermarket Intakes would actually make the car less powerful, in the K&N case I lost 26hp. You would think on a turbo car or in our case a deep breathing 6.0 that more air would be better, but none of the aftermarket intakes do much for us. What is the real reason here? Is it physics or vacume related in some way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deezel Posted October 21, 2004 Report Share Posted October 21, 2004 When I I had my Evolution I ran into this same problem. Aftermarket Intakes would actually make the car less powerful, in the K&N case I lost 26hp. You would think on a turbo car or in our case a deep breathing 6.0 that more air would be better, but none of the aftermarket intakes do much for us. What is the real reason here? Is it physics or vacume related in some way? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> The real reason is that GM and other manufacturers have improved their intake designs over time. An aftermarket manufacturer "might" be able to make an intake that shows minimal gains for one vehicle configuration, but it will not apply to all configurations of similar vehicles (engine size, emissions equipment, transmission, gear ratios, etc, etc). Their job is to sell you a bling-bling tube and cool filter for several hundred bucks. If they can produce ONE test on one vehicle showing hp gains then they can claim their product makes power. If their product FITS several vehicle configurations, then they can claim it is a product for those configs. BUT, rarely (if ever) do you see a product that was tested for each vehicle config it is sold for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Talker Posted October 23, 2004 Report Share Posted October 23, 2004 Did you block off the holes from the fender? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FalconPilot Posted October 25, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2004 Did you block off the holes from the fender? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yes. Duct taped them for now. Will build a plate later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan06SS Posted October 25, 2004 Report Share Posted October 25, 2004 Isn't this the same idea as the volant w/ scoop? Given this uses the stock box, but shouldn't you get about the same results... just with less pain in your wallet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimB Posted October 25, 2004 Report Share Posted October 25, 2004 This was done along time ago If you do a search I don't remember who did it but a few guys did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FalconPilot Posted October 25, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2004 This was done along time ago If you do a search I don't remember who did it but a few guys did. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I think that was the first thing I said Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dancar Posted October 25, 2004 Report Share Posted October 25, 2004 I finally came up with one that works. Remove the plate under the stock air box. Cut a 6" hole in the bottom of the box This is the only intake mod I have ever done that acutally gave me a real increase in performance. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Do you have a stock filter or aftermarket? Do you think a 4" tube would be as effective? Did you leave the mounting plate out? If so how did you secure the box? Do you seem to have the quicker response that everyone seems to mention about the more popular alternatives? Did you have your westers tune adjusted for a cai? Sorry in advance for all the questions. Thanks dancar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdss Posted October 26, 2004 Report Share Posted October 26, 2004 VDrumright has a great thread with nice pics of his dual pvc pipe ram air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimB Posted October 26, 2004 Report Share Posted October 26, 2004 I did not mean you were taking credit for this mod just wanted people who might want to do this there is some good instructions out there to do this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FalconPilot Posted October 26, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2004 Do you have a stock filter or aftermarket? Stock Do you think a 4" tube would be as effective? no. I didn't test it, but I would think bigger would be better. a 9" tube will just fit over the break duct. If I had one that big, I would use it. I did a little basic math. With no friction, or compressibility loss, the velocity of the air in a 4" tube with a 394ci engine at say 4000 rpm is around 60 MPH. With a 6" tube that speed drops to around 35 MPH. To me, that meens you need to be doing over 60 MPH at 4000 rpm to make true ram air with a 4" ram air tube. Increase it to 6" and you only need to be doing around 35 MPH. The ram air would become effective sooner, thus giving you more power, faster in your run. Did you leave the mounting plate out? yes. If so how did you secure the box? I didn't. It doesen't seem to move enough for me to worry about. I may build a bracket at some time, but I am not in a hurry to so that. Do you seem to have the quicker response that everyone seems to mention about the more popular alternatives? I don't have a calibrated butt. That is what I use the G-tech for. I don't notice any difference in tip in, or responce. Did you have your westers tune adjusted for a cai? no. I thought there was lots of room in the program for the small anount of air increase. that is what the mass air meter is for. Sorry in advance for all the questions. No Problem! Fire away! Tim B. No sweat. I just didn't want people thinking I stole their idea. I just figured it was time someone put some real world numbers down. dylanvonkleist, IMHO, you are right. The ramair Volant should be the same thing. I have not tested the Volant. I don't understand how it would be any better than the ones I did test. I don't understand why I never got a good power increase with an aftermarket system in THIS truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenKey Posted October 26, 2004 Report Share Posted October 26, 2004 Many others have done similar things to their airbox. Used to be one of the first thing everyone did. Good to see numbers difference though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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