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A Pillar Construction / Gage Pods


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Material List:

Home Depot/Hardware store

Fiberglass Resin

Fiberglass Cloth/Mat

Box of 50 Rubber Gloves

Extra Fiberglass Resin Hardener

1 gallon Tub of Bondo.

Bondo mixing and applying plastic spreaders

Light weight finishing filler, (5 oz tube)

40 grit sand paper

120 grit sand paper

320 grit sand paper

primer

paint

Small amt of 1/2 inch MDF Wood 4ft sq should be enough

Large Roll of Aluminum Foil

Package of Mixing Cups or SOLO cups,

 

Tools needed

POWER SANDER IS A BIG HELP

Scisors or razor blades

Jig Saw

Imagination

 

 

FIRST STEP: Making the Mold to build from.

 

Remove A Pillar Trim Covers.

 

Cover A Pillar Trim Piece in Aluminum foil, 2 layers should be good,

press the foil so there is no creases and it wraps the trim piece tight

 

Lay out dry fiberglass mat on Pillar, cut to fit shape,

2 layers should be fine to start...

(you are covering the outside shell, not wrapping it around

the back.)

 

Put on Gloves, Mix 5-10 Oz of Fiber glass resin in Cup

according to the packages requirements,,,MIX WELL.

 

Use your hands and work resin into the Mat, Continue to

make sure that the mat holds the shape that you are recreating.

 

DO this on both pillars and wait till they dry, 2-6 hours depending

on temperature.

 

Once dry, remove hard shell from original pillar trim piece and pick

the aluminum off of the mold you have made.

 

STEP TWO. Creating the shape.

This part takes some creativity on your part, Now that you have

seen how Fiber glass works, You need to learn and play with how

you want your pillar to look, are you adding speakers, Gages, Mounts

Displays, SAFCII Screen, MBC's etc.

 

Use the Wood to cut guides for your self. Our example will be tweeter POD.

 

Cut the wood to reflect a ring the size of which the tweeter

will fit in snug.

 

Use Small amt of bondo, (mix according to instructions on can)

to secure the wood to your New Mold. Mix the bondo HOT, or

add a little more cream hardener than your would for normal.

(this is just expierence, play with the stuff a little bit

before you start your project) You can see in this picture the

small plastic mounting ring that was used, see how it is atached

with the bondo to the mold!!

389369_6_full.jpg

 

Let dry, the HOT mix bondo will harden in about 3-5 min.

You will have to hold the wood in that spot until it drys.

 

Now Mix normal proportions of cream hardener and bondo and fill in

area behind the wood trim piece, use Gloves and use a bondo spreader.

(this will cause less sanding later)

 

Let this harden and continue to sand down and apply bondo until you have

the shape that is desired.

 

as you can see here, the plastic trim ring is now back filled and the middle

cleared out.

389369_7_full.jpg

 

 

Use Dremel tool or drill to remove excess bondo from inside the wood trim

ring, you can also put the tweeter into a plastic bag before bondo and put it

in the trim ring you made,then bondo around it, same idea as the aluminum

over the pillar trim ring, it does not stick but allowes it to be molded

around the part.

 

Part 3: Finishing the pillar.

 

At this point you should have a basic looking pillar with lots of

funny colors on it.

389369_9_full.jpg

 

Use your light weight bondo filler tube to fill in small irregularities on

the surface of your new Trim Pieces, Use the 320 grit to make is as smooth

and flowing as possible, you might want to lay another layer of fiberglass

mat over the project at this point to have a uniform surface and to add strength.

Bondo sands easier than resin and having the surface uniform with one product

will make it easier to sand and make just perfect.

 

 

next is to spray with primer and let dry, this will show

off the wavy or uneven parts. let dry and

finish sanding it down and filling imperfections and re spray with primer

until you have it as smooth as you want it to be.

 

Next hit the piece with SEM Texture coat spray, follow the instructions

on the can very carefully, dont rush this part. This will give the

New Trim Piece a texture that looks like leather or the factory plastic

dash texture. Follow the finishing instructions on the can

exactly so it turns out just right, remember at this point,

you can always sand it down and try again until it is just right

389369_11_full.jpg

 

 

Last part is to paint it what ever color you want!

and you are done

389369_31_full.jpg

 

TWO VERY GOOD QUESTIONS HAVE COME UP....

 

First Question is, did I mold onto the plastic?

 

In the Pictures I did mold to the plastic, But something that I would not recomend because it can crack, plastic is soft and flexable, bondo and fiberglass are not, so they don't last long with out cracking. The instructions I drafted up describe recreating a new pillar, not building off of the factory one, yet the pictures are my first go at it, the finished product picture is my final job at it and does not have any original factory pillar in it, so read carfully, take pictures as a slight guide to the words.

 

Second is how to attach the pillar once you make it?

 

You can secure the A pillar in three ways,

THe first is done buy molding or glueing the factory clip to your new A pillar,

Liquid nails works well for this!

 

The other that has worked very well for me has been clear silicone to secure it from the back side, to remove it use a heat gun.

 

I have seen people use screws and have built into the A pillar a deep counter sunkin portion for the screw to hide in and secure the pillar, this is the hard way, but the best way.

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I did not work any kitty hair into this set up! :confused:

 

Naw just kidding, I know what Kitty hair is and I did not need any, I used a product called vett filler in those pictures to keep the bondo and plastic from cracking apart. Awesome stuff. But You really should just make a mold which the pictures don't show!!

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Joe,

 

Is that your car?

 

That was the Evo VIII that I had before I got my SS, Its home page is at...

Evo Web Page!!!

 

I will build a small tutorial about building a sub enclosure as well if you guys want me to, I had lots of fiberglass work in that evo, I am getting ready to build a fiberglass enclosure for the SS, So I will just make a tutorial from that!!

 

Fiberglass is not hard to work with, It just takes some imagination and time!! :D

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Fiberglass is nice..........

 

But it's a pain in the ass. Nice setup though. :thumbs:

As a wise man once said, "if it is a pain in the butt, you are not doing it right!" :jester:

 

When I first worked with it I thought the same thing, but It is no harder than dealing with wood enclosures really!

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