Need Torque Specs

[shadowsniper3006]

hey guys

 

Tomorrow I'm pulling the heads off the truck and everything that goes with that. I'm not sure how to do the torque to yield head bolts though??? Is there a torque setting i can use that is close enough or i guess what is the right way to "torque to yield"? Also does any know the torque specs for the valley cover? Is there anything else i have to torque to a spec? I'm thinking stuff like valve covers is just tighten it and it's good enough. And the head bolts have to be heat cycled and then retorqued right?

 

Are there any head bolts i have to use sealant on? And I think TEA told me the intake studs for the rocker arms need to be sealed, right?

 

Is there anything else i should look out for?

 

I'm also going to try to make the mezeire pump, reichard racing idler pulley, ls1 comp cams belt tensioner and reichard tensioner pulley all line up as well. I heard about .5 an inch is needed to space out the water pump so i bought 2 sets of gaskets and got some aluminum from work to machine the correct size spacers for the pump so i don't have to stack gaskets, we'll see how that works...

 

 

Thanks a bunch

 

Brad

[Fireman31]

Cylinder head bolt tightening procedure....

 

1-Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a first pass in sequence to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) .

2-Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a second pass in sequence to 90° using J 45059.

3-Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a final pass to 70° using J 45059 .

4-Tighten the M8 cylinder head bolts (11-15) to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) . Begin with the center bolt (11) and alternating side-to-side, work outward tightening all of the bolts.

 

Note that J45059 is an angle meter. Make sure to use new cylinder head bolts, don't reuse the old ones. AllData does not mention using sealant on head bolts or rocker arm intake studs.

 

Intake valley cover bolts should be tightened to 18 ft. lbs.

 

Valve covers get tightened to 106 inch lbs.

 

Left side head bolt pattern......

 

Right side head bolt pattern.......

[wody]

FTMFW!!!

 

Snap-On TechAngle Torque Wrench

[shadowsniper3006]

Thanks for the help guys! Thats one expensive torque wrench..

 

I got the heads off and a bunch of other stuff today, no major problems but boy is it intimititing. I still have to pull the lifter trays and lifters out but tomorrow will be cleaning and getting new lifters and ls2 guides in and getting the heads back on. then i have to check for push rod length. How can i tell if the push rod length is right for non adjustable rockers. Should i put a dail indicator on one lifter and torque the rocker arm down and see if it moves .060?

 

I found out why TEA said to put sealant on the intake studs, the porting cut right into the thread.

[wody]

Thanks for the help guys! Thats one expensive torque wrench..

 

I got the heads off and a bunch of other stuff today, no major problems but boy is it intimititing. I still have to pull the lifter trays and lifters out but tomorrow will be cleaning and getting new lifters and ls2 guides in and getting the heads back on. then i have to check for push rod length. How can i tell if the push rod length is right for non adjustable rockers. Should i put a dail indicator on one lifter and torque the rocker arm down and see if it moves .060?

 

I found out why TEA said to put sealant on the intake studs, the porting cut right into the thread.

 

i was able to convince two other guys at the shop to buy one so that we could get a gp for 350.

[99lss1]

Cylinder head bolt tightening procedure....

 

1-Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a first pass in sequence to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) .

2-Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a second pass in sequence to 90° using J 45059.

3-Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a final pass to 70° using J 45059 .

4-Tighten the M8 cylinder head bolts (11-15) to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) . Begin with the center bolt (11) and alternating side-to-side, work outward tightening all of the bolts.

 

Note that J45059 is an angle meter. Make sure to use new cylinder head bolts, don't reuse the old ones. AllData does not mention using sealant on head bolts or rocker arm intake studs.

 

Intake valley cover bolts should be tightened to 18 ft. lbs.

 

Valve covers get tightened to 106 inch lbs.

 

Left side head bolt pattern......

 

Right side head bolt pattern.......

 

 

Very good info Fireman. Personally, I would invest in some ARP head bolts. they are a much higher quality product and you torque to spec. Hope all goes well for you.

[shadowsniper3006]

i was going to buy arp bolts but i spent too much already on other parts I'm changing to this year, so something had to give.

Thanks again for all the help guys.

 

Brad

[detjoe]

color half of the bolt...then just use that horzinonal line as your referance.

 

1st pass is a light torque

apply marker

2nd pass your line will now be vertical ie 90

3rd pass your line will be back horzional/your half circle will be upside down

3rd pass for the shorter bolts will be some angle in the middle of horzional and vertical

 

this method is also given in the LS1howto.com directions

 

 

did this with mine and it worked fine.

[shadowsniper3006]

i ended up using the torque to 22 pounds then getting an angle gauge that attaches to the ratchet and used that for the angle torque. It works ok but i would say 5 degrees is about as close as it gets.

 

Now I'm having troube finding push rod length. I put a dail indicator on the top of the rocker above the push rod. I can find 0 lash easy but with just the yella terra pedistal it goes down .120 before the bolt is tight, with the shim they give you in case this happens it only goes down .015.... so I think i need a .050 shorter push rod to just use the pedistal for the rocker with no shim. But thats just a guess.

 

 

Thanks

Edited September 16, 2008 by shadowsniper3006 (see edit history)