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Jeff B

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Posts posted by Jeff B

  1. Look under the hood do you have the vauccum assist canaster next to the master cylnder it's about 9 inches long 2 inches around has an electrical connection to it? That could be some of the issue I know those had issues in the past. As for locking the brakes I am not entirely sure what you are reffering to. The truck's don't have conventional brakes they have ABS so you will not be able to lock them up as you would with an old car that does not have ABS I hope that's not what you mean though.

     

    I do have the canister. Any idea what it does or if I can tell if it is bad?

  2. Look under the hood do you have the vauccum assist canaster next to the master cylnder it's about 9 inches long 2 inches around has an electrical connection to it? That could be some of the issue I know those had issues in the past. As for locking the brakes I am not entirely sure what you are reffering to. The truck's don't have conventional brakes they have ABS so you will not be able to lock them up as you would with an old car that does not have ABS I hope that's not what you mean though.

     

    Are you talking about the brake booster between the master and the firewall? Or is there a separate canister nearby?

     

    No I didn't mean lock up all fours. But in my other cars you can feel when the ABS kicks in and there is usually a shudder to the pedal as the brake controller modulates line pressure. I'm just not getting that with this truck. In a hard stop I just get a soft pedal and the truck eventually stops. I would think I would be able to feel the inception of lockup.

     

    I'll look under the hood tonight and see what is there.

  3. I have had my 2004 AWD SS for 3 years now and have never been happy with the brakes.

     

    My major complaints are:

     

    - Can't lock the brakes.

    - I hear a SHHH sound and get a squishy feel as I press the pedal with the engine running. I assume this is the booster doing something. I get a very firm pedal that doesn't move with the engine off, so I don't think there are any leaks. I also looked all around the calipers and lines and saw no leaks. Level is good in the master.

    - If I'm stopped at a light, I can push the pedal down far enough to where it feels like I hit a mechanical stop.

    - Can't do a brake stand. From a stop, with the pedal to the floor and foot on the gas, the car slowly rolls forward.

     

     

     

    Last year I installed braided lines and Hawk pads all around thinking that would help. It did help some, but I still have the same symptoms, I just get a bit more bite when I first step on the brakes.

  4. Yup to those that said it. The front is supposed to ride on the bump stops because it is a torsion bar suspension. It basically makes the front progressively stiffer the more you compress it.

     

    Your problem may also be the rear. Mine was lowered 3.5" in the back and the rear axle was sitting on the bump stop. I drove from SoCal to Seattle like that and my back was killing me when I arrived. I took out the bracket for the rear bump stop and attacned the bump stop directly to the frame. This gave me about 2" of clearance between the bump stop and the axle. The ride difference was amazing and the truck handles much better.

  5. Eventually I'd like to supercharge / procharge it. But first thing I'm gettin done is having a viper 5900 alarm put on it this thursday. Then I'm gonna drop it I'd like a 3/5 but I can't find a 3/5 kit for an awd Ss only for 2wd so prob a 2/3.5 - 2/4. Maybe some simple hp upgrades such as air intake, programmer.. for now anyways until then.

     

    On the AWD, you can't get much lower than 2 in the front without having vibration or binding issues. I have the McGaughy's spindles and lowered it more with the torsion bars. Had some pretty bad vibratoin at 70ish. Raised the front back up about 1/2" and now its good. I'd guess I am about 2.5" drop in the front now.

  6. thanks guys i just wanna drop it 2 maybe 3 inch nothin crazy

     

     

    If you are looking at an AWD, you can't go much more than 2.5" in the front. I have the McGaughy's 2/3.5 kit on mine with spindles, hangers and shackles. Rides nice. I decranked the torsion bars a bit and lowered the front an additional inch only to have some vibrations around 70. I raised the front back up about 1/2" and no more vibrations.

     

    Here's a couple pictures of mine.

     

    http://home.comcast.net/~baconjb/ss.html

  7. OK, I am going to be getting a boat in the near future and I don't think my spongy brakes are going to hack it. 2004 AWD SS with 60K miles.

     

    My plan is to do 14" powerslot rotors in the front, new pads all around and stainless lines, but have a few questions.

     

    What pads would be a good match for the powerslot fronts?

     

    Which stainless lines fit the best or should I have some custom made at the local hydraulic shop to match the stock rubber ones?

     

    I would also like to take care of the e-brake while I am at it. Right now the ebrake pedal goes to the floor and barely does anything. Is there a kit for this? New shoes? Not entirely sure how the ebrake works, but I am assuming it is the same as my corvette with a drum ebrake inside the rotor.

     

     

    Thanks

  8. First off, what is the difference, if any one knows, the difference between ls1,ls2, and ls3 corvette intake manifolds? Also, i read that an ls1 will fit a 6.0 silvy, so is that what the corvette and tbss have or are they two different manifolds? And is this a mod worth the time and money? and if it is, which one, if they are different is a better idea?

     

     

    LS1, LS6, LS2 have the same basic dimensions and would bolt to your heads. LS6 outflows LS1, I think the LS2 is pretty much the same as LS6, flow wise. Your 6.0L intake flows almost identical to the LS6 so none of those would be worth it. Another problem with these is they are pretty short and you have to use a car waterpump. Its not the easiest swap to do. TBSS is a tall LS2 intake, but only slightly different from the 6.0L intake. Minimal gains.

     

    LS3 intake is a short intake that will only work with the L92 heads. L92 intake is a tall version of the LS3 for trucks.

  9. So I am getting a very slight clunk when I first apply the brakes. You have to have the window down and be going fairly slowly to notice it. I also get a light clunking or rattling when coasting over bumps. Again you have to have the window down and be moving slowly to hear it.

     

    I first started noticing it after I stroked the steering shaft to get rid of that clunking.

     

    I am thinking maybe CV joints or propshaft/front drive shaft U-joints?

     

    I don't have any clicking or grinding that you would normally expect with CV joints.

     

    Truck is 2004 with 46K miles on it, McGaughy's 2/3.5 drop with spindles and the torsion bars adjusted for an aditional 1/2" or so to get it to sit level.

     

    I did a search, but couldn't find anything that sounded the same.

     

    Any ideas?

  10. Well I just rolled over 45K miles and should probably get some work done. I bought the car in Feb with 39K miles and don't know the service history.

     

    What is recommended at 45K miles and what else should I look at while I am at it since I don't know the history too well?

     

     

    Thanks

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