Jeff B

I do have the canister. Any idea what it does or if I can tell if it is bad?

I've read a few articles and I'm seriously considering it.

Who makes 14" rotor kits for the rear that fit an 04 SS with stock calipers? I have seen some 14" kits out there, but I'm pretty sure they are thinner rotors and not sure if they will work with the stock SS rear calipers. Thanks

Are you talking about the brake booster between the master and the firewall? Or is there a separate canister nearby? No I didn't mean lock up all fours. But in my other cars you can feel when the ABS kicks in and there is usually a shudder to the pedal as the brake controller modulates line pressure. I'm just not getting that with this truck. In a hard stop I just get a soft pedal and the truck eventually stops. I would think I would be able to feel the inception of lockup. I'll look under the hood tonight and see what is there.

Yes, Stock rotors

I have had my 2004 AWD SS for 3 years now and have never been happy with the brakes. My major complaints are: - Can't lock the brakes. - I hear a SHHH sound and get a squishy feel as I press the pedal with the engine running. I assume this is the booster doing something. I get a very firm pedal that doesn't move with the engine off, so I don't think there are any leaks. I also looked all around the calipers and lines and saw no leaks. Level is good in the master. - If I'm stopped at a light, I can push the pedal down far enough to where it feels like I hit a mechanical stop. - Can't do a brake stand. From a stop, with the pedal to the floor and foot on the gas, the car slowly rolls forward. Last year I installed braided lines and Hawk pads all around thinking that would help. It did help some, but I still have the same symptoms, I just get a bit more bite when I first step on the brakes.

Yup to those that said it. The front is supposed to ride on the bump stops because it is a torsion bar suspension. It basically makes the front progressively stiffer the more you compress it. Your problem may also be the rear. Mine was lowered 3.5" in the back and the rear axle was sitting on the bump stop. I drove from SoCal to Seattle like that and my back was killing me when I arrived. I took out the bracket for the rear bump stop and attacned the bump stop directly to the frame. This gave me about 2" of clearance between the bump stop and the axle. The ride difference was amazing and the truck handles much better.

I'm going to try to make it. I'm up in Everett on business, but if I am home (Gig Harbor) by then, I'll be there. I'd love to bring the 1970 Corvette, but the SSS is in some serious need of a good detailing. I'll probably bring the truck so I can ask some detailed (pun intended) questions.

I thought the powerslots were the 19mm thick ones not the 28mm ones like stock.

Who makes 14" or 15" rotors for the rear of the AWD's? Thanks

On the AWD, you can't get much lower than 2 in the front without having vibration or binding issues. I have the McGaughy's spindles and lowered it more with the torsion bars. Had some pretty bad vibratoin at 70ish. Raised the front back up about 1/2" and now its good. I'd guess I am about 2.5" drop in the front now.

If you are looking at an AWD, you can't go much more than 2.5" in the front. I have the McGaughy's 2/3.5 kit on mine with spindles, hangers and shackles. Rides nice. I decranked the torsion bars a bit and lowered the front an additional inch only to have some vibrations around 70. I raised the front back up about 1/2" and no more vibrations. Here's a couple pictures of mine. http://home.comcast.net/~baconjb/ss.html

OK, I am really confused. What is the correct part number for rear Hawk pads for an 04? I've seen a few different numbers posted here and don't want to order the wrong ones. HB496Z-640 (Hawk website for escalade AWD) HB385Z-640 (Posted here) HB324Z-673 (Hawk website)

Thanks, I wonder if it is even worth doing anything with the e-brake?

OK, I am going to be getting a boat in the near future and I don't think my spongy brakes are going to hack it. 2004 AWD SS with 60K miles. My plan is to do 14" powerslot rotors in the front, new pads all around and stainless lines, but have a few questions. What pads would be a good match for the powerslot fronts? Which stainless lines fit the best or should I have some custom made at the local hydraulic shop to match the stock rubber ones? I would also like to take care of the e-brake while I am at it. Right now the ebrake pedal goes to the floor and barely does anything. Is there a kit for this? New shoes? Not entirely sure how the ebrake works, but I am assuming it is the same as my corvette with a drum ebrake inside the rotor. Thanks

Because of the torsion bars, it is supposed to sit on the bump stops in the front.

LS1, LS6, LS2 have the same basic dimensions and would bolt to your heads. LS6 outflows LS1, I think the LS2 is pretty much the same as LS6, flow wise. Your 6.0L intake flows almost identical to the LS6 so none of those would be worth it. Another problem with these is they are pretty short and you have to use a car waterpump. Its not the easiest swap to do. TBSS is a tall LS2 intake, but only slightly different from the 6.0L intake. Minimal gains. LS3 intake is a short intake that will only work with the L92 heads. L92 intake is a tall version of the LS3 for trucks.

What is the diameter of the exhaust pipes coming into the muffler? I tried to measure a while back, but didn't have any calipers and measuring a round pipe with a ruler just wasn't cutting it. Thanks

Is there an easy way to replace it without tearing apart the entire dash?

Just within the past week or so, my automatic headlights are coming on whenever I start the truck. I assume this would be a bad sensor? Where is the sensor that triggers the auto headlights? Is it difficult to replace? Anyone have a part number? Thanks

What is the top left button on the steering wheel for? I thought it was for bluetooth pairing like my wife's Camry, but I can't find anything about it in the manual. Thanks

So I am getting a very slight clunk when I first apply the brakes. You have to have the window down and be going fairly slowly to notice it. I also get a light clunking or rattling when coasting over bumps. Again you have to have the window down and be moving slowly to hear it. I first started noticing it after I stroked the steering shaft to get rid of that clunking. I am thinking maybe CV joints or propshaft/front drive shaft U-joints? I don't have any clicking or grinding that you would normally expect with CV joints. Truck is 2004 with 46K miles on it, McGaughy's 2/3.5 drop with spindles and the torsion bars adjusted for an aditional 1/2" or so to get it to sit level. I did a search, but couldn't find anything that sounded the same. Any ideas?

Wow, thats great. Thanks.

Well I just rolled over 45K miles and should probably get some work done. I bought the car in Feb with 39K miles and don't know the service history. What is recommended at 45K miles and what else should I look at while I am at it since I don't know the history too well? Thanks

Mr. P Can you measure your wing for me? I am looking for front to rear, height of the vertical part in the rear and the pitch angle in relation to the top of the bed. Thanks