jbaker
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Posts posted by jbaker
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For 2003 SSS, summit lists the wrong numbers (or at least they did). At the suggestion of summit phone rep, I called Wellman products and got the correct info. The part numbers SS_BNOON_SS listed are correct.
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While I don't park the sss for the winter, I am in IA and have and deal with winterizing a boat. A fuel stabilizer is a good idea, especially put in that tank before filling up and leaving a vehicle for the winter. Extra space in the tank is just asking for condensation.
Fresh oil and fluids before storage is a good idea, too. Then run the vehicle once or twice in the spring and change them again.
A Seafoam treatment, especially in intake manifold and then burned off by a good drive before winter parking is also a good idea. Seafoam, I do believe, is a petrol product and some small residue is better than bare metal if left to the elements.
Park your vehicle hot / warm before parking. Don't leave condensation anywhere in the exhaust.
Some may object, but I also vote to not start your vehicle every once in awhile after storage, just wait til spring. A properly winterized vehicle will be fine for months.
Just my advice, thanks.
Jared
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Not sure about mileage, but I'm over a month on the new one (sss is my dd) w/ no clunks...knock on wood.
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Let me recommend that you NOT google the above term and follow the first link. DO NOT WANT!
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Nevr-Dull will scratch my Centerlines in a heartbeat - they are show chrome, not hard chrome finish. I hear you on the carbon causing the scratches, but that crap is cemeted on the tips, is there anything that will loosen it up first? OH just had a thought - SEAFoam
Mr. P.
Good idea. I also recently purchased a vapor steam cleaner and have been impressed with the number of places I've been using it. I already spent a little time under the hood and was pleasantly surprised with how it handled the gunk. I'll give it a try on the exhaust tip and report back. Hmm, maybe a little seafoam first, then hot steam???
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Wadding polish should contain a fine cotton and solvents, but shouldn't scratch. As with clay bars, any dirt on the surface of what you are polishing can scratch. Sensitive metals should be polished w/ a good polishing soap. Both types of polish have been used by the boating and marine communities for years w/ no problems - I'd be surprised to hear that exhaust tips or the chrome of rims is soft enough to be scratched by either of these unless the surface contaminants themselves were causing the scratching.
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I use Nevr-Dull.
Mr. P.
I'll second the vote for any of the good wadding polishes.
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Have the fronts ever been cut before? If not I would cut them as long as they don't have any signs of rotor rot. If they have been cut before or have signs of rot, I would replace them.
Sorry, removed due to double reply / post.
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Have the fronts ever been cut before? If not I would cut them as long as they don't have any signs of rotor rot. If they have been cut before or have signs of rot, I would replace them.
Yeah, I had the fronts cut and was already forced to replaced the rears. So I'm likely going to do what I should have done to start with
...and replace the fronts. This was supposed to be one of those 'start and finish last Saturday' kind of things that has lasted way too long.To recap...let's start with the stuck parking brake on the driver side rear - that quickly explained the noise I was hearing, but took a 7 ton puller to get it off. Then it took me nearly two quarts of new fluid to realize that the rear bleeder valves weren't sealing if I used a pump to suck fluid through. I had no clue where all of that air was coming from! Turns out once I bled them the old fashioned way I was done in 30 minutes. So anyone that uses a vacuum pump to bleed brakes - make sure you know that the threads around the (stock) bleeder valve are sealing well, or you may have fully bled the brake lines but are getting air in the line from the bleeder valve itself. Starting to think I should have just taken it to a shop to start with! Thanks again for the advice.
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check each pad to make sure they are worn evenly and that there are no burrs or cracks.....It may be best to do a light cut on the rotors to start fresh with a clean surface.......make sure you bed the pads properly this time
Good suggestion...I think I will proceed down this path. I did't replace the front rotors, so maybe I should just buy new ones instead of dropping cash on the old ones. Then I can have the rears (which I did replace w/ new ones) turned if the new fronts don't take care of the problem.
Thanks!
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First, thank you for taking the time to comment and help out.
I'm not sure where to go from here. There's no cracking in any of the rotors. As for 'enough' cooling down time...I'm not sure. I did follow the directions, but clearly there is something that isn't correct, so I won't be too confident that I bedded them in correctly.
In short, after reading and talking to a few folks I do believe there is uneven transfer of the initial pad material on at least one of the rotors. But I have been unable to identify what the possible solutions are. Do I need to have all of the rotors turned again? Also, I'm pretty confident I had the rotors all clean when they were installed, but I guess there's always a chance a drop of brake fluid came in contact with them when I was bleeding the lines. Obviously I can't be too sure as something isn't right. I guess this would mean, rather than an excess of pad material buildup, maybe there is a place on the rotor where no pad material is sticking?
What do you guys suggest? Take it somewhere?
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Help, I think I did something wrong - How do I fix improperly burned in pads?
The new Earl's ss lines are on as are the Hawk HPS pads. This noob had quite a time with a few things, but I'll save that for another thread.
*shout out - thanks, fast4popper for the help getting that stuck rotor off. And, btw, getting rid of that stuck rear parking brake has been the best performance mod yet (ok, maybe the only one I have done...)
Thus far - even without a rotor upgrade the lines and pads are a worthy investment for anyone in need of replacements.
Here's my question...
After the install I picked up the Hawk box and read the recommendation for bedding the brakes. I'm doing this from memory, but I recall something like 6-10 moderate brake pressure stops from 30-35 MPH and half that number of agreesive brake pressure stops from 40-45 MPH. I did this but now have what feels similar to a warped rotor, and what I understand to be a spot on the rotor that received more transfer of pad material than the rest of the rotor. Is this going to cause excessive heat buildup at that part of the rotor and cause warping in the long run? Is there a fix?
jbaker
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That's great! Looks like she even managed to kick you out of the garage. That was prolly just after she yelled at you for putting the tools away wrong.
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Hmm, wonder why I'm coming up with different part numbers for an 03 SSS. Anyone have any advise (related to pads..haha)?
HPS Pads for 2003 Silverado SS at Summit:
XXXXXX
I was going to go with the HPS pads since I'm sticking with just upgrading lines and turning the stock rotors. The above part numbers are different than SS_bnoon_SS listed and both seem to be the HPS ones.
Yes, I am replying to my own message.
As if he needed confirmation...ss_boon_ss numbers are correct for an 03 sss. The garbage that comes up on the summit site is wrong. Again, since others are driving on these pads already they don't need this confirmation, but just to be safe I have removed my references to the incorrect part numbers (in my previous reply) to avoid future confusion during other users (non) searches.
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LOL...You couldn't have planned better responses.
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I think it is interesting to play the what if scenarios with some of these ideas, expecially with people that can make logical arguements and see a symbolic and cyclical nature of things. I'm passionate about my spirituality, but not attached to anything other than the way I want to treat myself and others. I tend to think that those that are so entrenched in a specific idea or explanation are in for a surprise at some point (in this life or in another...whatever you believe). A shift in perspective and being willing to consider other paradigms can yield some really interesting ways that things start to fall into place (or reinforce what you already felt).
Anyone read "Anita's Legacy" by Gurpur Prabhu?
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Jbaker, we need to get together and do more shit like this, easy inexpensive upgrades!!
I'm all for it! LOL...you know, a few more of these and I might be able to warrant a sig of my own.
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Big thanks to fast4popper for hooking me up with his connection on these parts. Heck an even bigger thanks for even putting them on for me! Hands down, great bang for the bug. Shouldn't even be considered an upgrade...this is how the truck should have felt from the factory. Must do. Go get them.
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I ran some cheapie synthetic through the front as the drain magnet was hairy as all heck, so I wanted to flush out as much crap as possible before putting good stuff in there. I ran cheap synthetic for a couple hundred miles and then replaced front and rear with Royal Purple.
Big thanks to Mr. P for the how-to's!
I completely removed the rear cover and cleaned away the old seal - that was definitely the biggest chore. I haven't run the royal purple long enough to make any comments other than clean fluid is always better than dirty.
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Sounds good to me. I did just learn last night that a close buddy is making a move to Boston and leaving that weekend, so that would have to take priority but I'm not sure when he takes off yet. I sure am interested, though. Hey, and it'll be cool to show off my replacement steering shaft. DANG, it is a GM part, so I guess that still makes me a stock truck. CRIPES!
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3 piece slate tables virtually require pro leveling. For someone that is patient and persistent, you can level a one-piece table. All 8' and 9' tables I've encountered are 3-peice. Bar size tables (7') are mostly one-piece. While not as large or challenging, it is pretty easy to locate a modified coin-op table that has been converted for home use. The amount of space required for a table is shocking to most that have not owned before - to be able to use a standard 57" on all parts of a 7' table you need a room that is 12' 9" x 16'. Other than that, take someone with you if you aren't able to assess rail/bumber wear, etc. Be prepared to act a little more quickly and possibly shell out a little more cash - fall is a popular time to look for tables. Good luck! Sounds like your place will be the spot this winter.
Jared
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Wonder if he'd be willing to trade???
I have a nice turd I'd be willing to part with.
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The 01 PCM won't work for your truck. The 01 is a 512kb PCM with red and blue connectors. Interchangeable with 99-02 V8 trucks, 99-02 LS1 fbodies, 99-03 Vettes and a few other similar vehicles. Your truck uses a 1mb PCM with green and blue connectors and is compatible with all 03-07 NBS trucks, 04 Vette and GTO, and a few others.
Based on the above statement, is it correct that a 2004HD 6.0 PCM would be fine to use / send in for a custom tune to be put in a 2003 SSS?
(btw, is reviving an old thread the right thing to do if the line of questioning is the same???)
Thanks!
Jared
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Or the open source response..squid proxy. ACL's (access control lists) can be setup based on a number of 'types', such as:
- Source/Destination IP address
- Source/Destination Domain
- Regular Expression match of requested domain
- Words in the requested URL
- Words in the source or destination domain
- Current day/time
- Destination port
- Protocol (FTP, HTTP, SSL)
- Method (HTTP GET or HTTP POST)
- Browser type
- Name (according to the Ident protocol)
- Autonomous System (AS) number
- Username/Password pair
- SNMP Community
If you are really seeking to limit bandwidth per user (and you wanted to use squid), I think you will have to install squid with the delay pools option - most installations now do not come with this 'feature'. If you didn't care to 'limit bandwidth per user', you could set up windows of time when certain domains are or are not accessbile. There are ACL rules that can be added. IMO, for most applications, a fair balance between admin control and employee usability can be reached without having to specifically limit bandwidth.
- Source/Destination IP address
Rap/hip Hop
in Off-Topic/General
Posted
Aesop Rock - Fast Cars, Danger, Fire and Knives. Some genuine, quality stuff...pick this one up.
Blackalicious - The Craft or his Blazing Arrow
Michael Franti's (Spearhead's) old Chocolate Super Highway