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Rausche

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Posts posted by Rausche

  1. Hey there, Ladies!

     

    I leave for a few months and look what's happened... So much going on! I feel left out!

     

    Sorry I've been absent for so long, I've had a lot going on. Moved into a new rental house, dealing with various room-mates and their problems (which, of course, became my problems with a quickness), getting ready to head off to school at the end of summer, selling all my worldly belongings, and work! So much work...

     

    I figured I'd stick my head in the door here and let you all know that I'm still alive, well, and loving my SS. Although I haven't put any new power-adders in quite some time, I'm still shelling out $250 a month to have her detailed (gotta keep the bling shinin', right?).

     

    I plan to start checking in more frequently, I really want to get re-involved in the community here... I miss you guys! I am going to try my hardest to make it out to the LVD drags at least ONCE this summer... Money and time are very tight this year, but I value my sanity above all.

     

    Have I missed anything substantial? Are my old friends and site veterans still alive here? Is Dan still the post-whore of the century? What new things have I missed out on!!? Who's got the fastest truck now? Has Kevin raced with Project Black Widow yet?!

     

    Get me back in the loop, brothers.

  2. how tough is this to do yourself? i have the same code on my truck and want to get it fixed. also, how much did it cost when all said and done? I have also heard that the gas cap could be the problem, should i try to replace that first.

     

     

    It's a little tricky since you need to get on top of the gas tank. I chose to drop the tank, but it might just be easier to grab a couple buddies and lift the bed off the truck. Other than it's pretty simple and self explanatory.

     

    A gas cap shouldn't give you that code. Vent valve are extremely common on the 1/2 and 3/4 tons. The TSB referred to here has you relocate the new vent valve towards the front of the box. If I remember right the problem they were having was these things getting gummed up from being on top of the tank and dirt getting thrown up there. I'm at work now so I will see if I can pull up that tsb as well as some trouble shooting tips.

     

     

    I don't think a gas cap can trigger P0446... Any advice you could give me would be great, TIA.

  3. Alex, did you replace the vent solenoid valve itself too, or did you just relocate the vent tube? I just went through this with mine a few weeks ago, not only did we have to relocate the vent tube, but the vent solenoid valve was malfunctioning too, and needed to be replaced. FYI you are supposed to relocate the vent tube down the fuel lines to the top of the transmission tunnel above the transmission per the TSB.....and get ready for the cost of the vent solenoid, around $185. :freak: You should be okay to drive/race with that code, it really isn't serious, stupid emmision control stuff....I drove around like that for about a month, including a trip to and from Phili.

     

    I located the vent up above the gas tank... it's actually wire-tied to my fuel fill tube way up in the bedside.

     

    I did the vent solenoid valve as well... That's why I had to use this kit, on my '03 the vent was originally attached to the solenoid, now with this kit it's seperate. And the light is still on after the operation, that's why I'm bugged.

     

    I've been driving around on this for a few weeks now and just really want to see it shut off, I know it's not a serious issue but I feel like I'm neglecting the truck when I let things like this slide for so long...

  4. Alright guys... Go figure I'd return once I needed some advice, right? But that's what this forum is for so I hope you all can help me out some...

     

    A few weeks ago my CEL popped on... Aeroforce gauges say it's P0446 (Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit)... Alldata told me that there was a TSB out for 2500HDs for this code related to the Vent Solenoid, and that there was an updated part released to replace the stock hardware. I went out and bought the updated kit, which basically just makes the actual vent remote (as in, not directly attached to the solenoid, you use 5/8" hose and put the vent wherever you want).

     

    My mechanic and I put the kit in, I cleared the code, and it came back on a few days later... Other than just replacing the entire EVAP system piece by piece I figured I'd ask you all if you anyone has run into this issue before...

     

    I'd really like to get out to the drags on the 17th but if I can't get this code shutoff than I won't race the truck... HELP HELP!!!

  5. Alright ladies... Keep your pants on. I'm back.

     

    I'm know it's been a while since any of you have heard from me, that's absolutely my fault. I've been pulling 50-70 hour weeks since June and I'm totally trained all the time... All the money from those hours has been pouring into my Third Gen Camaro, which is getting an LQ9 transplant :D .

     

    I haven't been out to any of the meets because I haven't modified the truck in any way since the last time I dragged, so I'm still thinking that I'm sitting around 14.4... But I messed with my 3-4 shift pressures, so I'm a little curious.

     

    I'm putting money aside for this meet... If you can put me down with a (?) next to my name that would be suhweet. There's a decent chance I'll make it out there, but I have a lot to prep first...

     

    I'm pulling a P0446 that I can't seem to kill, but I'll start a new thread about that.

     

    Hopefully I can find the funds to get out there, I miss you guys!!

  6. Hey Everyone,

     

    My friend went off and built himself a 350 for his 1983 Caprice, and now he's having some trouble tuning it (go figure). I'm looking for any kind of referral to a decent speed shop in Massachusetts (the closer to Cape Cod the better). I'm specifically looking for a good over-all dyno tune, but really anything works.

     

    If anyone knows what's out there, PM me. Motor Specs available upon request.

     

    Thanks Guys!

  7. i found that one. just type in led in the search over there and it should be the first thread to come up. doesn't look too bad. I have an 04 so not sure of the differences. he did everything on one truck over there. gauges, window controls, heater controls, radio. looked great. i want to know how it is to do the steering wheel controls as well.

     

    Just fired off an e-mail to the guy. Since my SSS is sittin pretty in storage my now, it would be the perfect time to gut it for a project like this.

     

    I'll let you know what I hear from him, Keith.

  8. :noway: REALLY?! Anyone got a part number or lead on this kit?

     

    Mr. P. :)

     

    Obviously now that I'm looking for it I can't find the PM... I recall seeing it on GMPD as basically a PN that included all the parts (basically the window and switch).

     

    I'm curious now that I'm thinking about it, if the wiring is pre-existing for it...

     

    Let me do some more digging Steve, I'll let you know what I find...

  9. From the topic title I thought you might be getting a divorce! Glad to see it's nothing like that!!

     

    I know you've certainly answered some of my questions on here, and I've certainly referred people to your threads before. You've been a great service to the site and Thank You for that!! You're making a totally respectable decision and I'm sure nobody who understands will think any differently of you because of it. :thumbs:

     

    Make sure you get pics up of the SShaving!!!

  10. I am actually trying to get the solid rear window to go down like a normal window. Similar to the tundra's.

     

    Reminds me of the trucks that Marlboro (the cigarette company) made. They were early modified early 90's Syclones (like found here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Marlboro-GM...%3A1|240%3A1318 or eBay item number 330302400433. They had a slide down rear window, I never found out who made it though. Might be a good starting point :dunno:

  11. Thought about using the motors from the back side windows a mini van to open and shut the windows prob would be pretty easy. Change out the switch pannel on the driver's door pannel and wire in the lil motors. They are like little actuators that open to vent the window.

     

    This has been thought of before... From what I remember the mini-van solenoids were either too big or there wasn't a suitable way to mount them (same problem I guess). It was also thought of to make the rear windows slide downwards like a crewcab, but that would have to be 100% custom and I'm pretty sure there's next to no room in the door for that...

  12. Has anyone ever thought of trying to make the solid rear window in the SS a power window, similar to some new trucks on the market? Just thought it would be something new and unique. I know it would be a pretty big project but i figure if you can get all the parts from a newer truck, I am sure something could be fabbed up.

     

    What does everyone think? :confused:

     

    GM sells a kit for it.

     

    It was actually an option for the SS, AFAIK the colder climates got solid windows with defrosters, and warmer climates got power sliding rear windows. The switch for them mounts where the blank panel is to the left of the passenger airbag switch. I believe a couple members on here even have them and have pics up...

  13. When you drop it off, tell them you do not want the PCM touched, plain and simple......

     

    I always tell them the same things when I go in for service: Do not reflash PCM/BCM, Do not rotate tires, Do not grease (I have my own synthetic grease for all the joints).

     

    My dealer knows why I say these things, but nothing is official and they still gladly grant me warranty work. :dunno:

  14. FWIW, I took a good comparative look at my Aeroforce and my stock temp gauge this morning: The stock gauge read a little over 160* when in reality the aeroforce reported 140*.

     

    I don't know whether the data comes from the same place or not (maybe cylinder head / radiator / lower block coolant passage / etc), but keep in mind it's possible for both readings to be accurate.

     

    As far as I can tell once the stock gauge gets over 170* or so it becomes much more accurate... My truck runs at 174*-176* normally, and the stock gauge never goes over that...

  15. AFAIK the only way to do this is with a pass-through adapter (eg: http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/pag...prod/prd109.htm, see: SEN-01-4160 - 8K pass-through pulse generator with adaptor cable for GM transmissions with cable drive speed output.). This will allow you to keep the cable drive attached and also allow a pulse to be generated for an electronic speedometer. The only issue I see with this one in particular is that your gauges might not use the 8k pulse. In either case, you should be able to calibrate the electronic speedo to be accurate.

     

    Before you go ahead and order that... Why are you going to be installing an electronic speedo? I don't understand why you would do that over the cable drive w/o replacing it? What kind of gauges are you going with anyways?

  16. I know there are a few members out here running dual batteries, I'm sure they will chime in.

     

    I myself have looked into it, I went to the dealership and got a layout of secondary battery system on a similar truck (I think it was an '03 Silverado HD). I'm trying to go as stock as possible, and I'm working with my parts guy to get all the PNs and pricing I need.

     

    To answer your question, theoretically you wouldn't need a new alternator, but why would you move straight to dual batteries without getting a stronger alternator first? Depending on what you're trying to accomplish, a second battery might not be the smartest move (money wise).

     

    Hope that helps! :thumbs:

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