BigTex

Yes they are Kev. Look almost new. Intake runners are near spotless. Obviously the exhaust and chambers have a little combustion residue. The surfaces are perfect. None of the gasket material stuck to them when taking them off. They are packed back in their original TEA box and packaging, ready for shipping. Richard

lucky7_93021 - MPG loss is hard to say. To be honest, its possible to gain MPG from heads and cam at certain rpms, because the engine is working more efficiently. Then again, with your foot into the gas pedal, it can also eat more gas. Realistically, if you are putting highway miles on it, you may notice very little loss in MPG. In stop and go traffic, the effects may be a bit more noticeable. Now, cost for install.... Check around with some reputable LS1 speed shops. I can't say what some would charge. I installed mine myself, as well has many other guys on here have. You best bet would be to get a buddy to help adn set aside a day and do it yourself. There are many "how-to" guides on the net. Not too many special tools are required and the experience you gain is somewhat worth the effort, not to mention that its free to do it yourself. RevolutionRaceWorks - Let me know if you have any more questions. I'll be happy to answer them.

JF-03-SS - I don't have a pic of the complete exhaust installed. For reference, the X-pipe is directly above the torsion bar cross member. I had a side exit muffler on at one time too. The cats I used are roughly "14 long, with slip fit connections on each side. ItsJac - Fans have all the wiring and stuff needed to install. I also have the instruction manual for it. Lets say $20 for shipping. If its more than that, I'll eat the rest of the shipping cost. slyder7 - What kind of pictures would you like to see? It looks just about like THIS. Here is another view of a Polished Radix. I can get some pics of my specific model if you want. adams2003 - sent reply. RevolutionRaceWorks - The front pipes meet in an X-pipe. That X is sitting right above the torsion bar crossmember. The two front pipes have "slip fit" connections into the X pipe with band clamps holding them together. From the X-pipe back, its up to you how you want to configure it. I think you'll have plenty of room to hook up the Corsa. lucky7_93021 - I had these heads built to work on a maximum effort 6L motor or a stroker motor. You will see gains with just the heads, but I highly suggest you install a good camshaft at the same time. A cam install at the same time will be pretty easy. The camshaft along with the heads will make a huge difference in your truck. If you are serious about the heads, I'll make you a sweet deal on a perfect cam to go with this. The headers were built to run as a true dual exhaust. The X-pipe end has dual 3" pipes back to the muffler. If you have a dual-in muffler on your B&B setup, then I don't think it will be any problem to hook it up.

I put the high flow cats after my X. That let the exhaust equalize between the two different cats instead of having one dedicated per side.

Fans are a direct fit for the SS trucks. Its a prety easy install. They were designed for teh GM trucks, so the install is very clean.

Bill - trans is yours. I probably spent near $500 on the throttle body parts, maybe a tad more. All parts were purchased new direct from the GM parts house.

I'm taking my SS back to stock and am moving on to a different project. (Jeep Wrangler with a LS2 and 6-speed) I've got all the parts removed and they are looking for a new home. Most of this stuff can be ready to go out this week. I have a paypal account. Polished Radix supercharger - SOLD!!!! Appx 20K miles. 3 pullies - (3.3 3.0 2.75). Upgraded large water reservoir. Ported intake to fit either a stock 78mm TB or an upgraded 90mm TB. 42# injectors and inline fuel pump. 2 belts. Runs great. Basically everything you'll need except the stock handheld programmer. Finishline Performance 4L65E transmission - SOLD Appx 2000 miles of use. Bought for a friends escalade project that was cancelled before it was finished. I kept this for my truck but don't need it now. Vacuum modulated and works great. Nice crisp firm shifts. TEA stage 2.5 6.0L heads - PENDING Less than 1000 miles of use. Comp cams double springs. TEA's competition hand finished porting. Intake flow is ~330cfm at .600 lift and exhaust is ~280cfm at .600 lift. 2.05 intake and 1.60 exhaust valves. 69cc chamber. I had these designed to run with a high end 6.0L motor or a stroker motor I was planning on building. PIC1 PIC2 PIC3 90MM throttle body "KIT" - SOLD 2005 SSR 90mm Throttle body, speartech harness adapter, and proper TAC module. Everything needed to swap over to a 90mm TB. Fual and Boost pressure gauges with overhead pod - PENDING Autometer electric C2 gauges for fuel pressure and boost mounted in polished aluminum overhead gauge pod. PIC1 PIC2 ASM headers with custom dual 3" pipes - SOLD Appx 2500 miles of use. Custom 3" ball and socket flanges. Dual 3" front pipes from 3" mandrel bent tubing. 3" X pipe. Good shape. Has extra O2 sensor bung (w/ plug) already welded in for a wideband meter. PIC1 PIC2 Pair of 3" high flow cats - SOLD Like new with about 2000 miles of use. These are the high quality metallic substrate converters similar to Random Tech, but are in a much better polished stainless steel case. These are designed for high horsepower uses and should stand up well to forced induction. I did a back to back dyno with and without them and showed only a 4 rwhp drop in peak power with them installed. PIC Flexalite electric fans - $275 Set of flexalite 280 electric fans for the large core SS radiator. Working upgraded controller and lots of wiring. Great shape. PIC1 Drag strip wheels and tires - $500 plus shipping ($450 if you pick up in DFW area) Set of Nitto NT-450 tires on Sportmetal Axiom 17" chrome wheels. Tire size 275-50R-17 VR rated. All matching with lots of treadwear remaining. These are a much lighter and lower profile setup that I used at the drag strip or around town when racing. The Nitto tires have very good traction. With the gearing and weight reduction, I think there were easily worth .3 in the 1/4 mile. Wheel PIC For clarification - This is a set of FOUR wheels and FOUR tires (not just two).

They aren't supposed to be identical voltages between sensors, but they are supposed to be very similar readings. Those sensors read the angle of the throttle blade. If the blade is at 75%, the sensors would output a certain voltage. If the blade is at 25%, the sensors would output a completely different voltage. The readings of the blade angles are compared to the reading of how far the pedal is depressed. Those readings should also be close to one another, but not necessarily identical. If they don't match, the PCM detects and error and puts your truck in reduced power mode until you fix the issue and clear the code.

Let me add a little something to this thread: For some tech info on the workings of these TBs, see my post here: http://www.SilveradoSS.com/forums/index.ph...ndpost&p=236974

Glad I was able to help without knowing I was actually helping. I think.

Looks good. I noticed the breather on the valve cover. What are you doing with the PCV system?

I know no one has a good plan for an AWD 4L80 upgrade yet. I don't think you need a $5K trans or even a $3.5K trans. I'd look into a mildly built 4L80, which aren't too expensive. Speartech sells a harness to control the 80E. The crossmember takes some minor fabrication. Then its on to the transfer case..... How about a manual selection 4wd case from a HD pickup? You can keep it in 2wd for normal driving, then move it to 4WD when you need traction. This should handle more torque than you can give it.

The stock truck TB bolts on just fine to a FAST 78mm intake. There is no aftermarket 90mm truck style TB out that I know of. Here is a 78 FAST, and if you look hard, you'll see its using an 03 truck TB.

Did you say C5-R or C$-R. Thats going to be sweet. Is this going to be a FAST intake? What are you going to do for a throttle body? The FAST is manual and the current vette's TB is a differnet config than the trucks.

I'd really like to see some pics of this.

Holy Crap Jeff......!!!!! I've seen you talking about a stroker. I just didn't know you were jumping right in. I need to get off my butt. I've got a stroker kit and new heads sitting in my shed. I just haven't taken the time to get it built. Seeing your pics makes me want to get it underway. What sized cam? Whose heads are you going to run? Richard

I posted this in the other thread, but it might be helpful to have its own thread for future reference: BTW - Gm says the viscous coupling is not serviceable. This doesn't mean the transfer case can't be fixed, just the viscous coupling needs to be replaced. This part is #2 in the first picture. So if you did happen to ruin the AWD tcase by doing a dyno, it can be easily fixed. ******************** NVG 149 Transfer Case Description and Operation The RPO NP3 is a single speed, single mode transfer case. The mode is full-time all wheel drive. It has a planetary differential gear set that splits the torque, normally 38 percent to the front wheels and 62 percent to the rear wheels. The NVG 149 utilizes magnesium housings. Proper fasteners, brackets, and fill/drain plugs must be used to prevent galvanic corrosion. The planetary differential uses the carrier (6) as the input. The annulus gear (4) connects to the rear output shaft (5) and rear wheels. The sun gear (3) connects to the front output shaft (7) and front wheels through the chain (8) and sprockets. The viscous coupling (2) consists of a sealed housing filled with a high viscosity silicone fluid and thin steel plates alternately splined to the inner and outer drum. The inner drum is connected to the input shaft (1), and the outer drum to the sun gear (3). Whenever there is a speed difference between the front and rear wheels, the inner and outer plates of the viscous coupling spin relative to each other and the silicone fluid provides resistance. The resistance was tuned to be high enough to bias power quickly to the wheels with traction, and low enough to prevent binding in a tight turn on dry surfaces. This is the most common way the viscous coupling is activated, the shear mode. If the speed difference is high, the coupling can lock or hump. This "hump" occurs when the heat generated, expands the fluid inside the housing, changing the fluid dynamics between the plates. This results in pressure between the plates, forcing them into contact with each other, similar to a clutch pack. In the hump mode, the coupling can bias torque 100 percent to one axle, if required. Situations requiring this are extreme such as backing up a steep gravel grade or climbing over off-road obstacles. The viscous coupling is not serviceable; it must be replaced if defective. This is because each viscous coupling is calibrated for optimum vehicle performance for both the shear and hump modes. If the viscous coupling is in the "hump" mode too long, severe damage will occur. To prevent damage to the viscous coupling, DO NOT: Tow with only two wheels down Drive without one propshaft Drive with a "donut" spare tire for an extended period of time Power Flow - No Wheels Slip During normal operation, 100 percent torque is delivered to the input shaft (1) from the transmission. The torque is split to 62 percent to the rear output shaft (2) and 38 percent to the front output shaft (3), by the planetary differential. Because there is not a loss in traction or slip in the front or rear wheels, the viscous coupling is locked in place and there is no "shear" mode or "hump" mode involved. Power Flow - Front Wheels Slip When traction is lost at the front wheels, the viscous coupling works in conjunction with the differential to bias the torque more to the rear wheels. The rear torque goes higher than the 62 percent, and up to 100 percent torque to the rear output shaft (2). The torque at the front output shaft (3) is lowered from the 38 percent, to as low as 0 percent torque. Power Flow - Rear Wheels Slip When traction is lost at the rear wheels, the torque is biased to the front wheels. The torque to the front output shaft (3) goes higher from the 38 percent, up to 100 percent torque. The torque at the rear output shaft (2) is lowered from the 62 percent, to as low as 0 percent torque. Customers may have concern that the transfer case is not operating properly because one set of tires spun for a brief period. It is normal for one set of tires to spin until the viscous coupling engages. Turning off the traction control switch, if equipped, enhances the function of the viscous coupling. The viscous coupling, as described above, engages by heat. Allowing one set of tires to spin or slip for a brief period will generate heat in the viscous coupling. The engine speed should be kept at a constant speed during the brief spin of the tires. Pulsating the engine speed or hard acceleration will not allow the viscous coupling to operate properly. © Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved. Document ID # 873908 2003 Chevrolet/Geo Chevy K Silverado - 4WD ****************** Transfer Case Viscous Coupling Test Tools Required J 45382 Transfer Case Tester To determine if the viscous coupling is operating correctly, use the following test procedure. Testing the viscous coupling operation by removing a propeller shaft and driving the vehicle will cause the viscous coupling to fail. The test will determine if the viscous coupling is faulty from a totally locked up failure, or if the viscous coupling fluid has leaked out from being severely humped. Important The Viscous Coupling Test is very sensitive to the temperature of the transfer case. If the transfer case is very hot, the time to turn will be faster. If the transfer case is cold, the time to turn will be slower. 1. Operate the vehicle for 24 km (15 mi), or until normal operating temperatures are reached. 2. Set the parking brakes for the rear wheels. 3. Position the transmission in NEUTRAL. 4. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information. 5. Remove the front propeller shaft. Refer to Propeller Shaft Replacement - Front in Propeller Shaft. 6. Install the J 45382 into the transfer case front output shaft. 7. Using a torque wrench at 11 N·m (100 lb in) on the J 45382 , turn the front output shaft 90 degrees. 8. Note the length of time it takes to turn the front output shaft the 90 degrees. * If the front output shaft turns slow, and takes at least 10 seconds, the viscous coupling is operating correctly. * If the front output shaft will not turn, the viscous coupling or the planetary carrier assembly could be locked-up. * If the front output shaft turns easily, and the 11 N·m (100 lb in) cannot be obtained, the viscous coupling is faulty. © Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.

Bear, I hope you aren't getting your info from an article in the March (or Feb) issue of GM High Tech Performance magazine or the book "Chevy LS1/LS6 Performance", both by the same author- Chris Endres. I have some concerns about that source. I have yet to see an 035 head. I've looked on SSs and Escalades and have not seen one. My LQ9 has 317 heads. Does anyone here have 035 heads on their SS?

Not quite correct. Hypereutectic flat top pistons on the LQ9, cast dished pistons on the LQ4. Same heads on both motors. If you have an LQ9, look at the casting number - 317. Same as on the LQ4. The stated HP numbers from GM are sort of a game anyway. Look at how they rate the LQ4 on the other platforms. They rate different HP on the Denali vs the trucks, but its the same physical motor. Same thing they did with the Z28 and Camaro SS. Same physical motor, one has a differnt air intake - instant 20 HP ratings.