southga03ss

lol...I guess so, every time I post something it does that for some reason...guess it's this company issued POS computer.

Just like the title says, I'm looking for a stock intake. Let me know what you got and what you want for it. Thanks

Don't have a picture right now, I'll get one this afternoon when I get home and post it tonight.

Thanks alot, those 100 posts looked bad!

I just re-opened the website and saw that. I didn't even hit post, I was proof-reading the post before submitting it and it automatically submitted. I don't know what happened.

Hey guys, I have a triple gauge pod with speaker hole that I want to trade for a stock one. If you have one, I'll trade straight up if you pay the shipping for yours to me and mine to you. The pod also has two holes for the small lights that were used for methanol "arm" light and "warning" light. Looks great, just don't have gauges anymore.

Fluid doesn't smell burnt and it is filled to the correct level. I don't understand why 4th would fail and not 3rd along with it.

Alright guys, I did a search on here and read many things that could be the culprit of the problem I am facing. After the tranny was built and put in, the 3-4 shift was very mushy and the converter wouldn't stay locked up in 4th for very long if i set the cruise control. It wanted to downshift. I got up Sunday morning, and had no 4th at all. So, I'm driving around with 3 gears that work absolutely perfect. The tune on the truck is stock, I installed a PI 3000 stall converter, pinless accumulator pistons, corvette 2nd servo, superior 4th servo, Alto carbonite band, larger boost valve, HD pump spring, alto red eagle 3-4, alto 1-2 clutches, beast shell, and Tru-Cool max cooler. Any help would be appreciated, this is getting to be a PITA! Thanks!

How much?

Guess it was the pump afterall, I was riding around last night, truck shut off running about 50 mph. I replaced the filter while on the side of the road, no luck. Turned the key on and off several times to see if fuel would come out of the line with the filter off, got nothing. Sucks! One question, could I place an inline electric fuel pump on the truck without replacing the stock pump? Just wondering if the pump would allow the fuel to flow through it. Thanks!

Yes. The aftermarket pinless pistons have many advantages over the stock. They are not made of plastic, you don't have to worry about the pin bore wear, they are double sealed, and the larger design prevents the piston from cocking inside the piston bore. I do have a question on these pinless accumulator pistons though as well. When I took my valve body apart, either the 1-2 or 3-4 stock accum. piston came with an inner and outer spring. The Pinless pistons I bought included only one spring, are you supposed to re-use the stock inner spring along with the aftermarket outer spring or leave it out?

I will definitely clean it this weekend and see if it helps. Thanks alot!

Yes I can hear it run when the key is first turned, I guess I haven't listened close enough to tell if the tone changes signaling it is primed. I have changed the plugs and wires, fuel filter, air filter, and MAF (maybe a few times) since this started and nothing changed. Could it be a fuel pressure regulator or something like that? The truck has about 200,000 miles on it, and (knock on wood) I've never been inside the engine. As for the tranny, it has been inside of a dozen times or so. I had nitrous on it at one time and all the bolt on bells and whistles until I bought my SSS, which at that time I went back to stock so that I could drive it to work everyday. I didn't change everything all at one time, it was a progressive change over a few years. I have no clue what this could be.

I replaced the pump about two years ago and before I replaced it, it made a very loud whining noise when the truck ran and when it primed; and the fuel gauge didn't work. My fuel gauge has since quit working again but the fuel pump is not loud like before and that is why I thought it may be something else.

I have a '99 Silverado RCSB with 5.3L. No tune, and only a few bolt on mods (shorty headers, electric fans, 160* stat). The truck has had a problem starting for the past year or so when you first get in it. It acts like you have to prime the pump or something to start. If you jump in and turn the key it will just turn over; turn the key again and it will just turn over, then finally on the third round it will start. The way I've been dealing with it is turn the key on and off a few times before trying to start it to let the fuel pump run. Is there a simple fix to this problem?

In 4L60E units it is common for the plastic or alloy forward accumulator piston to wear or crack. This causes a fluid loss, resulting is delayed engagement, slips, burned clutches and/or band. Repeated reciprocation of the accumulator piston causes the piston pin bore to wear. Fluid loss through the piston pin bore or cracks causes forward clutch to slip. After this wear reaches a critical point, fluid loss through the piston pin bore cannot be compensated due to lack of pump volume. The pinless forward accumulator piston kit eliminates these problems by eliminating the pin bore. Dual seals stabilize and completely seal the bore and provide a tight seal even after thousands of cycles. I just rebuilt my tranny and replaced all of the accumulator pistons with the pinless. They aren't that expensive so I believe if you are upgrading, you might as well go with them. And I believe the kit I got had the same pistons for 1-2 and 3-4.

Well I got the tranny out over the holidays and broke it down. Sure enough, the 3/4 clutches were burnt up. Good thing is, that was the only thing wrong inside the whole tranny. But, I couldn't see going through the whole thing without beefing it up. So, after I tore it down, I replaced the 1/2 clutches with Alto high performance clutches, same for reverse, replaced the 3/4 clutches with the Alto Red Eagle 9 friction pack, corvette 2nd servo, and Sonnax 4th gear servo, beast shell, larger boost valve, upgraded the pump spring, pinless accumulator pistons, Alto carbon fiber wide band, and transgo valve body plate. I haven't completely finished yet though, because I was sent the wrong filter. While I am here, I was reading about fluids. I read alot of posts where people say to stay away from the synthetic fluids because of slippage, but they normally produce lower heat. I am thinking about using the Amsoil super shift, raptor blood, or the BTE super shift fluid. I did purchase the Tru-Cool Max cooler and I am replacing the factory fluid lines with teflon lined steel braided hoses so that I don't have to worry about the lines blowing off ever again. I also have the PI 3000 stall triple disc converter that will be installed. What do you guys think about the fluid? I don't want to have to go back in and replace clutches when I could have extended the life by using different fluids. I know alot of people are running the Amsoil but I was wondering if anyone had any opinions on the BTE. It is $15.50 per gallon and the Amsoil is $10.XX a quart. Thanks for the help!

That's what I bought and have sitting in the shop, but after reading the posts suggesting non-synthetic fluid, it got me wondering what is best. Thanks for the input!

Well I got the tranny out over the holidays and broke it down. Sure enough, the 3/4 clutches were burnt up. Good thing is, that was the only thing wrong inside the whole tranny. But, I couldn't see going through the whole thing without beefing it up. So, after I tore it down, I replaced the 1/2 clutches with Alto high performance clutches, same for reverse, replaced the 3/4 clutches with the Alto Red Eagle 9 friction pack, corvette 2nd servo, and Sonnax 4th gear servo, beast shell, larger boost valve, upgraded the pump spring, pinless accumulator pistons, Alto carbon fiber wide band, and transgo valve body plate. I haven't completely finished yet though, because I was sent the wrong filter. While I am here, I was reading about fluids. I read alot of posts where people say to stay away from the synthetic fluids because of slippage, but they normally produce lower heat. I am thinking about using the Amsoil super shift, raptor blood, or the BTE super shift fluid. I did purchase the Tru-Cool Max cooler and I am replacing the factory fluid lines with teflon lined steel braided hoses so that I don't have to worry about the lines blowing off ever again. I also have the PI 3000 stall triple disc converter that will be installed. What do you guys think about the fluid? I don't want to have to go back in and replace clutches when I could have extended the life by using different fluids. I know alot of people are running the Amsoil but I was wondering if anyone had any opinions on the BTE. It is $15.50 per gallon and the Amsoil is $10.XX a quart. Thanks for the help!

I have a '99 RCSB 2wd and the radio took a dump on me. I have the factory radio single CD out of my SSS and I was wondering if there was any type of wiring conversion plug that would allow me to use the SSS factory radio in the '99. There may not be such a thing, but I just have the other factory one sitting around, so it's worth a try. Thanks!

Sold!

Replied

I have a TBTC that I bought on here last month from Mad Max. I bought a PI 3000 triple disc last week so I no longer need the TBTC. I'll take $150 shipped to your door O.B.O. He told me it had around 35K miles on it. It's gotta go, make me an offer.

Thanks guys for the help, I don't plan on towing anything, but I went ahead and bought a 10.5" with 3000 stall. Got a good deal on it and I'll take lots of pics and update everyone once I get started.

Update: I have ordered the parts to build my tranny: Complete gasket kit, filter, Red Eagle 8 frictions with 7 full thickness Kolene steels, 29 element sprag, Alto Carbon fiber wide-band, Beast reaction shell, superior 2/4 servos, 0.500" boost valve, pinless accumulator pistons, 1-2 accumulator spring, 13 vane pump rotor kit, Tru-Cool Max transmission cooler, and Transgo valve body plate. I did purchase a TBTC about a month ago when the tranny first went out, but I'm really wanting to get a Vigilante. Now, I'm unsure about a few things. I want a 3200 stall P.I converter. I know a guy that has a good deal on a 9.5" Vigilante with 3200 stall that was in a 4L60E in a late model camaro. Will this converter work? Everyone that has a Silverado that I have looked at on the web runs a 10.5" converter. I, myself, don't know the difference. Can someone explain to me why I would need a 10.5" and not a 9.5." I plan on re-building this tranny myself over Christmas break. I have a good friend that is a mechanic and we've rebuilt a 4L60E once before. I have 3 manuals and pictures, so I think we can handle it. I don't want to skim out on the converter, I plan on selling the STS kit I have and spraying the guts out of it once I get it back together. Hell with the turbo. I love nitrous, have ran it on many vehicles before, and even on my SSS before the turbo.