toxic donkey

received my headers last week, and immediately dropped them off to be coated. my question is do i need to get the flanges machined after i get them back? is this necessary with dynas? would the coating cause a problem as far as making them untrue? dont want to waste timr though if its not essential. thanks

thanks guys , just making sure. dropped them off to be coated this afternoon. hopefully ill get them back before next saturday, thatll give me time to get a wheatley pcm. by the way, this is where i picked them up. still quite pricey, but a little better than summit...http://www.autoanything.com/exhausts-muffl...A0A2430010.aspx

just received my dynatech supermax system,part # 115-841350. i was tiold this was right for my truck, but they came with a place for an egr valve on the passenger side header. of course my truck does not have one on the stock manifold that i can see. i got a tech from dynatech on the phone who said thats how they come now, if your application doesnt use egr just leave the plug in. i dont remember seeing this in any pics. is this something new that they are doing , ?? anyone who recently boght these get the same thing?? just making sure i got the right stuff. and it looks terrible just sticking out there for no reason.

whos got the best price on those fireman??

damn im late , but still a good read. just clipped a high manhole cover at work today , f#%k my 3 week old magnaflow dual in/out muffler and bent the flanges on the driver side down pipe from the manifold! good excuse for new long tubes and full system all the way back!!!

very very nice, u deserve

yeah, thanks, wonder why volant didnt think that was important.....

i installed my volant this afternoon with scoop, got cai on clearence from performancecenter.com for good price. install was pretty straight foward ,but one question... the way the air box sits againstthe wall is not airtght. even the stock air box was fitted with foam gaskets and fit snuggly against the wall where it sucks. would it benefit the volant to silicon or foam this area for a better seal? doesnt sucking air from the engine compartment completely defeat the purpose of the system, or am i being overly analytical about the thing??

no disrespect, but this may be a bit misleading. most powdercoating shops do have amedia or sand blaster. problem is these machines strip paint, rust etc very well but have extremely hard time stripping powder coat. ive had numerous sets of my mortorcycle rims coated over the years and ran into just about everything. in my experience, the best way to remove powder is to take your wheels to the local chrome shop and throw them a few dollars to drop them in the chemical bath they use before the chroming process.doesnt cost much and it gives your powder coater an extremely clean canvas to start.just my 2cents, good luck.

where did the covers come from? by the way , blacked out is trick!!

dude i got a hand ful of these gappers, but ive never gapped a plug with such a fine pointed electrode, and im breaking them off. its obvious that i cant gap them the same way as regular plugs.

is anyone running the ngk tr5ix iridium tip plugs? if so how the hell do you gap the damn things?? already popped the tip of the electrode off 2 of themm( 6.70 a piece)!! gap is .040 . please tell me the trick before i chuck the rest of them over my neighbors house.

that shit made my night!

they look really good on old schools when painted. id like to see them on an ss!

welcome

OKAY, before install rear was 1.5" higher than front.after install rear was .75" lower. after moving the 2 plates from the top to the bottom of the leaf, the rear is 1" higher than the front. so as of now it turned out to be about a 2/2.5 drop. if i calculate right , if you put 1 plate on the bottom and left 1 on top the truck would be almost exactly level. since i stripped out the pins that allign the individual leaves together, i might try that set up when i get new pins,just to see. but i think i need to leave it a little higher in back because i haul a motorcycle pretty regular. again fellas thanks for all the input.

thank you! just got back from doing EXACTLY this and it definitely rides better.still a little stiff coming home but nothing like it was. and i am running stock shocks. i know i need to change but i was told that there was enough travel in the stockers to keep them for a while. now that i put the top plates on the bottom(after stripping out the threads on both pins and nuts) it raised me up to where it looks level. started raining so i havent measured yet. now the air shocks may not be necessary for lift unless it really softens the ride. i was thinking about some belltech shocks since i got everything else from them. by the way gentlemen, i could never have gotten this far listening to some cat behind the parts counter. thanks alot!!!

yes most of you are right, it is riding on the bump stops, i did change to the new ones but put them in the stock spot. iwill move them now.also on stock silverados there is a polyurethane block between the leaf spring and the differential. iwas thinking of putting one of these on m,ine to get that extra inch i lost, only looks like i would need longer u bolts because there isnt enough thread showing on the ss u bolt. anyone know what im talking about??

i thoght about this, but the ass end rides so hard...and doesnt turning the keys cause other problems(thought i read that some where)?

put my belltech drop on this weekend. spindles on front and multipack leaf springs on back. thing is the back leafs were supposed to be 3" drop and ended up being about 4.25". this put my rear about 3/4" lower than the front. this is not what i was going for. now the setup doesnt look too bad but i tell u the ride is pretty bad. the back rides way too rough for my liking. i did expect to sacrifice a liittle comfort but not that much. id like to bring the back up at least an inch and soften the ride. would air shocks help me? or do i have to spring for an air bag setup? im starting to think i should have just used shackles out back. any suggestions gentlemen?

is the radis a roots type or screw type charger??

can the screw type superchargers( i.e. whipple) compare to either of these setups? i too am searching for the best set up.

OH S--T!!! IT ALMOST LOOKS LIKE THOSE DUDES STEPPED ON LAND MINES!!

thanks for that info. i wonder why the belltech site lists those coil spring kits for the ss. or did it matter the year and wether 2wd or awd??

yeah, thanks man