bobwrench

Need an easier way to get them beer cans in the bed? Bob

I'd also like to introduce myself, and hate to barge in on anothers post, but I can't for the life of me start a new topic! Every time I attempt to the topic page will come up, then I get a "internet explorer has encounterd a problem and needs to close" message and BAM whole forum's gone. What's wrong? How do I fix it? At the moment I could really use some advice interpereting a code, check engine light has come on twice, next door used car dealer has read and turned out light twice now. code is "PO446--EVAP vent system performance" What part/parts do I need and where are they located? Any help would be appreciated, don't want to hijack this thread, If someone could start another thread I'd find it, or PM me. Thanks, Bob

"well might not belong but i like it" Looks good to me! Bob

Didn't the old Impala and Chevelle Super Sports have their own, similar crossed flags? Bob

Pull the accessory drive belt and take it for a quick(SHORT!!!) drive. If it's gone, cerefully inspect and spin all front of engine accessories by hand. A rough bearing can usually be quickly found. Bob

U-joints often "squeek" when first going out because lubericant has gotten past bad seals and needle bearings are rusting. "Clunk" is soon to come. Unfortunately for most home repairmen, almost all GM u-joints are held in place with melted nylon injected into matching grooves in bearing cap and shaft hole. This nylon must be melted and caps driven out while still melted without getting shaft too hot. New caps are held in place with standard retaining clips. This all applies to steel driveshafts, aluminum still use retaining clips. If equipped with aluminum shaft, a C-clamp style press as also used for ball joint replacement can be borrowed(leased) from parts store. EXTREME caution must be used to prevent damage to aluminum shaft though,,,,it's a lot more tender than the u-joints steel caps!

Kind of a balancing act between the actual latch and the bump stops at front corners. Lowering or raising the latch can cause hood to be lower or higher than fenders. Raising or lowering bump stops can cause hood to be higher or lower than fenders. BOTH must be adjusted to keep tension on corner bumps (what actually keeps hood from shaking) and height of hood in relation to fenders. Bob

I'm a tire shop owner/operator. Just bought my SS couple weeks ago (barefoot). Chose Cooper Discoverer H/T plus. FINE lookin tire! Excellent ride, low noise, just had a 6-8 inch snow yesterday and they stuck like glue. Non-directional so rotation can be from side to side which I prefer, since it helps shooth any irregular wear patterns that develop. http://www.coopertire.com/Flash/index.aspx Take a look Bob

Hope you'll pardon my ignorance, but why convert? Am I reading this right that you're going from disc to drum? Why? Feel like I've stumbled into some sort of secret scociety here! What's the special handshake,, or do I need a decoder ring? Bob

There are 2 totally different lines of genuine AC Delco oil filters on the market. One is a traditional build, metal center tube style,,,only problem they're made in Mexico! The other (my personal preference) is the built in US version actually manufactured by Champion Labs (Champ) with their radical plastic center tube design. While this is the EXACT same as Walmart's "Super Tech", they are one of the best built filters available. Bob

Where you at for shipping? How much? Bob

DRUGS Bob

Just bought mine last Friday with 120,000+ mostly teenage driver miles! Know nothing of past maintenance or if it's ever had any major parts replacement. Need gauge replacement, all other systems work excellent, engine still strong,tranny shifts well. Will drive as a daily driver and expect to bust 200,00K without anything major. Have driven '95 S10 Blazer from 170k to 230K over the past 4 years. Drove a '78 F150 4X4 for 17 years prior to that (that I gave $750. for at a salvage yard). GAS 'EM, SERVICE 'EM, GO!! Bob

Way I understood original post, he plans to keep all four the same as each other, just go to different diameter for all four. This should be perfectly acceptable, other than speedo won't be correct. Most later computers allow you to change tire diameter in their programing to compensate for this, don't know about one in SS though. As long as all four corners are the same, no real problems. Different size front to rear and better grab your wallet! This will even come into play if one tire in a 1/2 worn set is damaged and must be replaced with a new one,,better buy all 4. Bob

"is there an easy way to replace the lower ones at home without removing the lower control arm? " As I've already posted, rent/get loaner C-clamp press from parts store. If one parts store doesn't have, check till you find one that does! I'd still really recommend MOOG brand. Bob

Quite a coincicence! First job in the door this morning was a upper rt. ball joint on a '04 Silverado 4X4. Because of operating room, it was easier to remove upper arm completely (since alignment was also part of repair ticket), beat 'er out with BFH, then press new one in with floor press. Was impressed with quality of replacement Moog part. Much better than OE or parts dept. GM. Lower replacement is still a different story though. Bob

Certainly won't hurt. If your gonn pay for a product be a much better idea to go with the Techron. Bob

Just bought my truck (04 SS 120,000+miles)Friday from an individual. 37 miles range when I took posession, so first stop was fuel pumps. Had no idea 'till I flipped the fill door open and there was that big ole sitcker !! Figured, WTF,, I've just bought my first toy since the 70's (allways been a Ford man, BTW) If I can't afford to feed it, why'd I buy it? Stuck that PREMO nozzle in 'er and never gave it another thought. Bob

Actually, SnapOn also need to go back for re-calibration occasionally(not covered under lifetime warranty). Been fairly impressed with imports from Home Depot. For lug nut use total accuracy isn't as important as repeatability from one lug to the next. Clicker is actually better than digital for wheel use, because all ya gotta do is listen for the click! Bob

Feel a bit foolish here! NO, I guess in the past I HAVEN'T done a '99 or up Chev 1/2 ton 4X4! Went to Moog site and looked 'em up, sure enough,,"K6292" is rivet in part for '94-'99 trucks, "K6540" is press in for '99-'04s. Since wheel alignment should be checked immediately after suspension part replacement, removing upper arm for professional help would be acceptable. Still maintain removal of lower arms would be a nightmare for amateur. "the newer trucks it is common practice to replace the WHOLE Upper A-ARM. jus for the ball joint." Riddler Actually a pretty good idea as this would also supply you with new bushings properly installed also. Respectfully, Bob

How does one remove cats and keep rear O2's from throwing code? Problem at hand, also bet there's interference somewhere on exhaust system. Get underneath and feel for any area where you can't fit a finger between pipes and body parts. Also visually inspect for shiney spots (rub marks). Bob

Evidently, nut has been loose for a while! Yep, new alternator on the short list. Belt damaged? Quite often when things swarm belt will get a cord pulled and won't stay on under stress afterward. Look it over closely before re-use. Also inspect idler and tensioner pulleys for runout, loosness before putting back in service. Bob

Still be really fast to set electric impact to lowest "on" setting, snug 'em up, then finish off with torque wrench. Own a tire, muffler shop doing multiple sets of tires every day,,,,EVERY one of them is finished off with a torque wrench. Guessing you're speaking of installing slicks or similar at drag race? Not NASCAR wheel change? Best, Bob

"to do so yes you have to unbolt the control arms from the truck and take to someone with a press and have them remove & replace the joint but the labor to do this is usually pretty minor." As a newbie, probably shouldn't step on any toes, but as a automotive service technician for the past 35 years, and a front suspension/alignment specialist for the past 12 years,,,, THIS IS INSANE!!! The upper balljoints are held on with rivets(originally, replacements come with bolts) while hard to remove, a press has nothing to do with the process. Best home removal would start with drilling smaller than actual diameter holes through all 4 rivets holding BJ in place, then redrill with larger bits untill rivet is almost completely removed. Then cut off lower rivet head with chisel, and chisel/hammer rivet shells out as ball joint is removed. At my shop, all this is done with a heavy duty SnapOn air chisel. Lower balljoints are pressed in, but lower controll arm isnever removed for replacment. a C-clamp style press is used (available as a rental from most parts store chains) to remove and replace. If lower controll arm is removed, torsion bars must be completely backed off to relieve tension, then ride height must be reset! Getin' pretty DEEP here!! Respcfully, Bob

"you guys changing full synthetic at 4K are wasting money....Even Mobil says 5K " Have to agree here. Syn's advantages over conventional oils don't begin to show untill after conventionals have started to degrade, which isn't usually till 3,000 or more miles. Those who race regularly need to follow a completely different schedule. Just bought a well used 04 SS, expect to use Phillips 66 Synthetic blend,,,,, turns up some of the best UOA's and is CHEAP! Oil life thingy will be totaly disregarded, with 3,500mi service intervals. Bob