SilverBullet6.0
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Posts posted by SilverBullet6.0
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Year of truck:2005
Model:GMC Sierra 1500 RCSB
Trans:4L60E w/ Corvette and Billet servos
Converter:Stock
Gear:3:73
Tires:275/55R20, soon to be 275/45R20
List of current mods:LQ9/LT's/no cats/dual exhaust with single flow 40/K&N CAI/160* Thermo/Custom Tune
Possible future mods:243 heads/TB Stall (unlikely, but possible)
Goals for truck: DD'able/375rwhp cam only, 400rwhp cam&heads/Choppy idle/off-idle to 6200ish powerband with good low end torque, but plenty high end pull
Uses of the truck: DD, Tow 16ft bass boat, haul harley sportser, would like to be able to tow another car
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Thanks guys!
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Thanks! I'll get an idle clip tommorrow!
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Here's my cam/bolt-ons v-max
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Yea, krambo, i dont mean to doubt your tuning how-to, but for some reason the idle-airflow.cfg didn't work for me??? the histograms gave me bigGer braf numbers than I actually needed. Also, the first week of driving this truck was mostly agressive driving. WOT runs and burn-outs, so the problem may have been there, but I didn't notice it lol. But I did tweak the ve table a lil, just didn't think about it messin with the braf table. But, the headache's over now! Thanks for all your help in tuning this truck!
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Man I've dialed in my base running airflow, played with the throttle follower and cracker tables with no improvement. Any other ideas?
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My ccsb has a LQ9 with bolt-ons and a TR224-112 cam. I tuned it last week and it has ran fine! Well tonite, I'm driving along doin 60 and I leftoff the throttle to slow down, but the truck keeps goin. It doesn't slow down. Same rpms, same speed. I can force it to slow down with the brakes. It feels like cruise control is on. It does this at slower speeds (35 in town) too. I have my base running airflow table dialed in and I tweaked my throttle follower/cracker tables. Any tips or advice?
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I have the obx and sent them to jet-hot for their sterling coating. Never will I buy any other brand of headers for a full-size truck. They are half the price of dynatech, and that'as including the coating! Mine fit perfect and perform good. And the burning spark plug wire problem isn't hard to solve. I already had red msd wires on my truck which barely burnt a tiny grey spot after about 3-4 months, so I called CC Performance and he hooked my up with 2 wires that were only 1 inch longer, and they go around the "hump" primary with plenty of clearance. The original MSD's never burnt completely through the outside coating or malfunctioned, but I knew they would eventually. And the best part is, I don't have to rig up lil brackets or wire ties. The wire fits perferctly like it's supposed to.
BTW, I've done 2 sets of these on 2 different trucks and have never had a single problem.
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I have a TR224/224-112 on the way here for an 06 60 LQ9. I have done a few stock internal tunes, but no cam tunes. What are the main things I need to do? I know how to do ve and spark, but how do I get it to idle good with or without the a/c on? What's the ideal afr for a cammed 6.0 with headers?
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The numbers you are looking at are Airflow Modes that correspond to the General Airflow vs MAF table (HPT > Engine > Fuel Control > OL&CL > General > Mode vs. Airflow). If you look at this Mode vs. Airflow table, you will see the numbers 0-16 are used for the cooresponding g/cyl. Depending on the airflow your motor is pulling at any given point determines what airflow mode (0-16) the O2 Rich/Lean vs. Airflow, bank 1 and 2 use. Typically when cruising (each set-up is different keep in mind) you will be pulling between 20 and 40 g/sec. So armed with that info, go to the General Airflow vs MAF table (HPT > Engine > Fuel Control > OL&CL > General > Mode vs. Airflow) locate the 20 - 40g/sec columns and see what Airflow modes you operate under those conditions (glancing at my file, I operate under modes 6-10 for 20 - 40 g/sec). Now go to the O2 Rich/Lean vs. Airflow, bank 1 and 2 tables (the ones you posted a screenshot of), correlate the cruising Airflow modes you just determined to the fixed number on top of the table and enter 350 in those cells FOR BOTH BANK 1 AND BANK 2. For me, I would enter 350 in the cells that correspond to Airflow Modes 6-10. For the lower airflow modes (2 - 6) you can enter 375. These represent idle and off idle areas. Again keep the higher modes (12-16) stock at 451 . Save under a different file and flash the new tune. Go gas up and drive as normal for the full tank and see what differences you have.
You can scale the Mode vs. Airflow to suit your needs as well. This will give you a broader range that you can mess with in the O2 Rich/Lean vs. Airflow, bank 1 and 2 however keep the higher airflow numbers richer. I know some people just put 375 across the board (for the O2 Rich/Lean vs. Airflow, bank 1 and 2) however when more airflow enters the motor, you really do not want to be too lean. That is why you take the time to focus on just the cruising and idling cells. You will spend most of your time in there anyway and should see the greatest impact.
If you try this, post up your results!
Thanks a lot! I'll post up results within the next week! ;)
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There is a way to alter your cruising AFR (in closed loop) even though we do not have the ability to enable "lean Cruise Mode". You go to the O2 rich/lean vs. airflow and enter a leaner number in there such as 375mv (vs. ~500 stock) for the areas of cruising speeds. Many have found several MPG increase doing this. I for one do not wish to run any leaner than "stoich" at cruise in my truck. Now, a commuter car, I would consider it.
I am curious about doing this to my tune. But, my table is 1 row with 9 columns labeled 0,2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16. Which cells do I apply the 375 number to? Right now my cells are all 451 in both banks. Attached is a screenshot of my tables.
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What temps should I be worried at??? How much pressure can I safely add?
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I tuned my truck with HP Tuners saturday. It's an 06 6.0 HO motor trans in a 05 reg cab. I cut tm and shift time by 50%, and added 10% to the line pressure. Before the tune, my trans temp never reached over 140-150, after the tune, it's staying around 170-180. This is all with normal small town driving. 4-5 stoplights, and about 75% throttle take off to sqawl the tires a bit twice. Is this temp increase normal? Also, is there anything else I can do to my trans tune for better performance? Can I decrease tm or shift time further? What about line pressure? Can I add anymore? Keep in mind, I want a SAFE tune. It's my DD truck, and probably will be for a while.
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I tuned my truck today with HP Tuners, the only things I tuned on the trans are: cut torque management by 50%, cut shift time by 50% and multiply the shift pressure by 1.10, so I added 10% to the table. Driving around tonite, my trans temp gauge reached around the 175-180 area, but before the tune it hardly ever got above 150. Is this increse in trans temp normal after a tune? This is on a stock trans. Thanks!
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Ok, I just ordered HP Tuners. I've watched a buddy of mine tune numerous cars, and I know my way around the software. I would like to get some advice before my software comes in. The only part I still need help on is knowing my limits. For example, I have a 2005 GMC Sierra reg cab with a 6.0 HO transplanted into it that I'll be tuning first. It has a K&N CAI and flowmaster muffler. I know I want to up my timing a bit, delete toruqe management, and make my sure my afr is right. So, as far as timing, what is the SAFE limit? What should my afr generally be? Also, when increasing shift line pressure, what is the SAFE maximum there? I know how to use the scanner to log real time data. I do not have a wideband, nor do I plan to buy one. I know they come in handy, but I'm doing basic tuning and don't feel as if I need one. I have heard that many people just copy the high octane table and paste it into the low octance table. In many of the screen shots I've looked at, there is a little box pop up when you put your mouse over something that tells you what it does and minimum and maximum. Can I generally follow those min/max reccommendations? I've heard afr should be around 13-14, is that true? Thank you for any help! I really appreciate it!
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Nice looking truck. I also agree on ditching the chrome molding on the doors and also replace the rear chrome bumper with a painted one like the SSS or a roll pan. Would SSS cladding fit on the truck without alot of custom work? That might match up the front fascia a little better? Not sure if it would fit though.
I'm not 100% sure, but I think the cladding should fit with little modification. The cab corners would be the hardest part. The only reason I haven't put on a sss rear bumper cover or roll pan is because I USE my truck a lot, and the painted roll pan/cover wouldn't look good long.
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Ive been debating takin off the chrome moldings...I think it would look better without them. I'm going to use ms paint to get a general idea.
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I got to see this truck in person in your dads garage about 6months ago,, I thought it was pretty cool then. I bought that 06 Intimidator off your Dad,,I took all the remaining Earnhardt stuff off so it just looks like a normal SS now,,,other than the little accident I had a few weeks ago,,I'm looking for a passenger side rear door at a decent price if you or your Dad run across one,,so did ya use an SS rearend under that thing?
Hey man! The read end is just a 3:73 posi unit. I'll let you know if we get a door in!
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yeah if you like it thats all that matter. personally i like the denali cover the best . or stock 03+ gmc front all painted but just my opinion
are they both alvage title? also if you dont want to post can pm me on the money they cost? i just want to get an idea of cost for building something like that
I like the denali covers too, but there's a billion trucks around here with denali conversion front ends, and I wanted something different. I like how the truck turned out, so that's all I care about. I admit the bumper looks a lil outta place since it hangs lower than the rest of the truck, but I like the way it looks fom the front, so I can live with it looking outta place from the side.
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Great looking truck, I like it if you do. I agree with chase, not a big fan of that front end, but I believe it's the chrome vs. paint color, just doesn't seem to work together. That, and the whole exterior of the truck seems to have several conflicting themes going on.
I would like to see a picture of the rear of the truck, and maybe some more of the interior if you can
What do you think is conflicting? Here are some pics from the back.
These are the only interior pics I have right now. I can take some more pics tommorrow if you would like? What interior pics do you want?
This ones at an angle, but it's just to show my jack in the stock location and my re-located tools
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The only thing different than stock on the rear of the truck, is the plastic piece on top of the tailgate, it has the black piece off of a regular chevy truck. I didn't have a gmc tailgate at the time, plus I use my bed a lot. The chevy piece is beefier, the gmc piece is kinda like the sss, it's more for looks than protection. It's just a thin cover, whereas the chevy offer more protection and actually kinda looks like a small spoiler, kinda like the intimidator, but nowhere near as sexy lol. It's a chevy tailgate with gmc badges. the interior is standard black cloth. Only thing not stock inside is the gauge cluster and subs.
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yeah if you like it thats all that matter. personally i like the denali cover the best . or stock 03+ gmc front all painted but just my opinion
are they both alvage title? also if you dont want to post can pm me on the money they cost? i just want to get an idea of cost for building something like that
The reg cab truck was salvage, the ext cab ho was junking title, meaning you cannot legally license it to drive on public roads. You can however use parts from the vehicle. Now that the truck is built, it has been inspected by mo highway patrol, and has a good title with a small brand that says prior salvage in the bottom corner of the title. It's just there to keep people from lying about if it's been wrecked or not. I'm at a family members house right now, but later this evening I'll go home and check my record and pm you how much it cost to build.
Looking back, I kinda wish I woulda put the motor in a 4x4 reg cab because this truck burns tires like crazy.
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Well, I don't really wanna say, but I'm in it pretty cheap because of being able to pull parts from my junkyard. I'm actually in this truck cheaper than what most SS's go for. Bought both trucks at an auction. The donor truck had a junking title, so it was cheap. I wish I had some side skirts to go with the bumper cover, but I haven't seen any for regular cabs that I like... The cover looks a lil outta place hanging lower than the rest of the truck, but I like it, so it works for me lol.
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Im a new member on here, and thought I would post some pics of my ride. Washed her today, so I decided to snap some shots. Built her here recently. 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 with 2006 Chevy 6.0 HO motor/trans. Mods are in sig.
She started life as this:
Here's the donor truck:
Now for the final product:
Guess My Hp/tq Numbers?
in Engine Tech And Modification
Posted
Well, since my dad is a rebuilder, we are always tinkering with something or building some project. He has an 05 Chevy SS Intimidator that's hit in the front. So obviously, it's a 2WD LQ9 6.0/4L60E. He wants to build a bad N/A street truck that he could DD if he had too. So, I sat down and compiled this list of motor/trans modifications. Could you guys and gals give me a estimate of hp/tq numbers as well as 1/4 mile times? Thanks in advance!
Circle D 278MM Street Series Torque Convertor
Texas Speed 228R Cam Package
243 Casting Heads
Sonnax Aluminum Accumulator Pistons
Transgo Separator Plate
Transgo HD-2 Shift Kit
Vette Servos
TruCool MAX Trans Cooler
Custom Wideband Tune
Coated OBX Long Tube Headers and Piping
Moroso Spiral Flow Mufflers
Volant CAI
160* Thermostat
8.1L Marine Injectors