SilverBullet6.0

Well, since my dad is a rebuilder, we are always tinkering with something or building some project. He has an 05 Chevy SS Intimidator that's hit in the front. So obviously, it's a 2WD LQ9 6.0/4L60E. He wants to build a bad N/A street truck that he could DD if he had too. So, I sat down and compiled this list of motor/trans modifications. Could you guys and gals give me a estimate of hp/tq numbers as well as 1/4 mile times? Thanks in advance! Circle D 278MM Street Series Torque Convertor Texas Speed 228R Cam Package 243 Casting Heads Sonnax Aluminum Accumulator Pistons Transgo Separator Plate Transgo HD-2 Shift Kit Vette Servos TruCool MAX Trans Cooler Custom Wideband Tune Coated OBX Long Tube Headers and Piping Moroso Spiral Flow Mufflers Volant CAI 160* Thermostat 8.1L Marine Injectors

Year of truck:2005 Model:GMC Sierra 1500 RCSB Trans:4L60E w/ Corvette and Billet servos Converter:Stock Gear:3:73 Tires:275/55R20, soon to be 275/45R20 List of current mods:LQ9/LT's/no cats/dual exhaust with single flow 40/K&N CAI/160* Thermo/Custom Tune Possible future mods:243 heads/TB Stall (unlikely, but possible) Goals for truck: DD'able/375rwhp cam only, 400rwhp cam&heads/Choppy idle/off-idle to 6200ish powerband with good low end torque, but plenty high end pull Uses of the truck: DD, Tow 16ft bass boat, haul harley sportser, would like to be able to tow another car

Thanks guys!

Thanks! I'll get an idle clip tommorrow!

Here's my cam/bolt-ons v-max

Yea, krambo, i dont mean to doubt your tuning how-to, but for some reason the idle-airflow.cfg didn't work for me??? the histograms gave me bigGer braf numbers than I actually needed. Also, the first week of driving this truck was mostly agressive driving. WOT runs and burn-outs, so the problem may have been there, but I didn't notice it lol. But I did tweak the ve table a lil, just didn't think about it messin with the braf table. But, the headache's over now! Thanks for all your help in tuning this truck!

Man I've dialed in my base running airflow, played with the throttle follower and cracker tables with no improvement. Any other ideas?

My ccsb has a LQ9 with bolt-ons and a TR224-112 cam. I tuned it last week and it has ran fine! Well tonite, I'm driving along doin 60 and I leftoff the throttle to slow down, but the truck keeps goin. It doesn't slow down. Same rpms, same speed. I can force it to slow down with the brakes. It feels like cruise control is on. It does this at slower speeds (35 in town) too. I have my base running airflow table dialed in and I tweaked my throttle follower/cracker tables. Any tips or advice?

I have the obx and sent them to jet-hot for their sterling coating. Never will I buy any other brand of headers for a full-size truck. They are half the price of dynatech, and that'as including the coating! Mine fit perfect and perform good. And the burning spark plug wire problem isn't hard to solve. I already had red msd wires on my truck which barely burnt a tiny grey spot after about 3-4 months, so I called CC Performance and he hooked my up with 2 wires that were only 1 inch longer, and they go around the "hump" primary with plenty of clearance. The original MSD's never burnt completely through the outside coating or malfunctioned, but I knew they would eventually. And the best part is, I don't have to rig up lil brackets or wire ties. The wire fits perferctly like it's supposed to. BTW, I've done 2 sets of these on 2 different trucks and have never had a single problem.

I have a TR224/224-112 on the way here for an 06 60 LQ9. I have done a few stock internal tunes, but no cam tunes. What are the main things I need to do? I know how to do ve and spark, but how do I get it to idle good with or without the a/c on? What's the ideal afr for a cammed 6.0 with headers?

Thanks a lot! I'll post up results within the next week! ;)

I am curious about doing this to my tune. But, my table is 1 row with 9 columns labeled 0,2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16. Which cells do I apply the 375 number to? Right now my cells are all 451 in both banks. Attached is a screenshot of my tables.

What temps should I be worried at??? How much pressure can I safely add?

I tuned my truck with HP Tuners saturday. It's an 06 6.0 HO motor trans in a 05 reg cab. I cut tm and shift time by 50%, and added 10% to the line pressure. Before the tune, my trans temp never reached over 140-150, after the tune, it's staying around 170-180. This is all with normal small town driving. 4-5 stoplights, and about 75% throttle take off to sqawl the tires a bit twice. Is this temp increase normal? Also, is there anything else I can do to my trans tune for better performance? Can I decrease tm or shift time further? What about line pressure? Can I add anymore? Keep in mind, I want a SAFE tune. It's my DD truck, and probably will be for a while.

I tuned my truck today with HP Tuners, the only things I tuned on the trans are: cut torque management by 50%, cut shift time by 50% and multiply the shift pressure by 1.10, so I added 10% to the table. Driving around tonite, my trans temp gauge reached around the 175-180 area, but before the tune it hardly ever got above 150. Is this increse in trans temp normal after a tune? This is on a stock trans. Thanks!

Ok, I just ordered HP Tuners. I've watched a buddy of mine tune numerous cars, and I know my way around the software. I would like to get some advice before my software comes in. The only part I still need help on is knowing my limits. For example, I have a 2005 GMC Sierra reg cab with a 6.0 HO transplanted into it that I'll be tuning first. It has a K&N CAI and flowmaster muffler. I know I want to up my timing a bit, delete toruqe management, and make my sure my afr is right. So, as far as timing, what is the SAFE limit? What should my afr generally be? Also, when increasing shift line pressure, what is the SAFE maximum there? I know how to use the scanner to log real time data. I do not have a wideband, nor do I plan to buy one. I know they come in handy, but I'm doing basic tuning and don't feel as if I need one. I have heard that many people just copy the high octane table and paste it into the low octance table. In many of the screen shots I've looked at, there is a little box pop up when you put your mouse over something that tells you what it does and minimum and maximum. Can I generally follow those min/max reccommendations? I've heard afr should be around 13-14, is that true? Thank you for any help! I really appreciate it!

I'm not 100% sure, but I think the cladding should fit with little modification. The cab corners would be the hardest part. The only reason I haven't put on a sss rear bumper cover or roll pan is because I USE my truck a lot, and the painted roll pan/cover wouldn't look good long.

Ive been debating takin off the chrome moldings...I think it would look better without them. I'm going to use ms paint to get a general idea.

Hey man! The read end is just a 3:73 posi unit. I'll let you know if we get a door in!

I like the denali covers too, but there's a billion trucks around here with denali conversion front ends, and I wanted something different. I like how the truck turned out, so that's all I care about. I admit the bumper looks a lil outta place since it hangs lower than the rest of the truck, but I like the way it looks fom the front, so I can live with it looking outta place from the side.

What do you think is conflicting? Here are some pics from the back. These are the only interior pics I have right now. I can take some more pics tommorrow if you would like? What interior pics do you want? This ones at an angle, but it's just to show my jack in the stock location and my re-located tools

The only thing different than stock on the rear of the truck, is the plastic piece on top of the tailgate, it has the black piece off of a regular chevy truck. I didn't have a gmc tailgate at the time, plus I use my bed a lot. The chevy piece is beefier, the gmc piece is kinda like the sss, it's more for looks than protection. It's just a thin cover, whereas the chevy offer more protection and actually kinda looks like a small spoiler, kinda like the intimidator, but nowhere near as sexy lol. It's a chevy tailgate with gmc badges. the interior is standard black cloth. Only thing not stock inside is the gauge cluster and subs.

The reg cab truck was salvage, the ext cab ho was junking title, meaning you cannot legally license it to drive on public roads. You can however use parts from the vehicle. Now that the truck is built, it has been inspected by mo highway patrol, and has a good title with a small brand that says prior salvage in the bottom corner of the title. It's just there to keep people from lying about if it's been wrecked or not. I'm at a family members house right now, but later this evening I'll go home and check my record and pm you how much it cost to build. Looking back, I kinda wish I woulda put the motor in a 4x4 reg cab because this truck burns tires like crazy.

Well, I don't really wanna say, but I'm in it pretty cheap because of being able to pull parts from my junkyard. I'm actually in this truck cheaper than what most SS's go for. Bought both trucks at an auction. The donor truck had a junking title, so it was cheap. I wish I had some side skirts to go with the bumper cover, but I haven't seen any for regular cabs that I like... The cover looks a lil outta place hanging lower than the rest of the truck, but I like it, so it works for me lol.