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BenKey

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Posts posted by BenKey

  1. If you want to read plenty on HS or YT rockers, go to LS1 tech and search. There is a lot of good and bad about both. Whichever ones you go with don't forget to get another set of springs - so add another $150.

     

    Why not just get a cam cut to the spec you want and up your duration and lift that way? It will cost about the same as your cheapest route for the other way and you will get more power out of it.

  2. I have installed dozens of cams, although only 1 in a LS1 engine. Never have spun a cam bearing. I would say it wasn't your fault unless you severly over revved it. Most likely the oil pump let go and took the cam bearing. Dosen't the LS1 engines have priority main oiling? If the cam gets oil last maybe that could be a factor as well. At least you were able to get a warranty. Good luck

     

    Dave

    Stock cam bearings are crap. Like I posted, I saw copper showing through on my brand new block. One ding to a cam bearing in the wrong place and potentially you can loose the bearing. I don't think over-revving is the problem. For mine it was prolonged heat and thinning oil + dinged up bearings.

  3. If you are concerned about the intake, put the stock one back on. What does it take, 10 minutes?

     

    Personally, I wouldn't take it to anyone other than the dealer. You have already paid for a fix - somewhat. Keep going back until they take care of it the way they should have in the first place.

     

    A code reader will not read a code that doesn't stay, or doesn't show as a pending code. I have never been able to scan a flashing SES after it went away - it means misfire. What more do you need to know?

     

    If someone had logging software you could go to that cylinder, but that is it. Almost sounds to me like your injector harness has been mis-matched.

     

    If it is something more serious, then it is the dealer that is going to have to fix that in the first place. Keep going back and you'll have a good case for the lemon law.

  4. The filter seal can be a pain. I have gone without replacing it just for that reason. Usually comes fairly easily with some needle nose pliers by bending the edge in toward the opening. To get the new one in I have used round pieces of wood to tap it in, or something similar. Try lubing the outside of it, just in case the opening no longer has fluid in it.

  5. Been there.  I put 3 (cams) of them in.  Like I mentioned about the stock cam bearings, they are cheap.  No matter what build you get, get the cam bearings changed out to Durabond bearings, even if it is a new block.

    The problem with just going in a changing your IFR, you'll change your fueling across the board.

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