SUX2BU

Well, i finally got my truck running so i'll post up some pics. I still have a few things left (methanol install, tuning, waste gate outlet to exhaust). But i'm actually driving it now so i'm happy. It's taken me 7 weeks to get this far, 60 hours a week, 15 hours at school and modding Wii's has only let me work on the truck about 3-4 hours a week. Some details are it's a KB racing log, stock driver side manifold, TiAL 50mm blowoff valve, TiAL F46 wastegate, T-76 ball bearing Turbonetics turbo, big ass intercooler, Eboost 2. At first i had just welded the 3.5" down pipe to the stock catback to get it running, but with cut outs closed it felt to restrictive and open it was way too loud, so i bought a Magnaflow and some pipe. came out pretty good, i think.

That pic was mid install, fans go on just like normal.

So i finally got around to installing my 40,000 GVW Tru Cool transmission cooler. I put it after my radiator because this is such an efficient cooler that if mounted up front like most people do my tranny would run at about 150* and that's a little too cool for me. Plus mounting it after everything i'll get better A/C performance and my motor will run quite a bit cooler, since i by passed the stock radiator in tank transmission cooler and removed the front auxiliary cooler. Tranny temps before were about 200* and coolant was about 189* with about 103* ambient temps in stop and go driving. After temps with about 102* ambient temp stop and go driving were about tranny 180* and coolant 177*. Stock auxiliary cooler Tru-Cool 40,000 GVW cooler.

Don't think so. i hang with folks off of LS2 and DFWstangs mostly.

Yeah the whole RKC crowd is pretty retarded. I have a few friends that go to that meet so i went to hang out for a bit, since i start classes again next week. Not really i try to stay away from LG. Met Lou a few times, he seemed ok, reminded me of my friend John Ipolido. Speaking of LG, just today they charged my friend $95 or so to look at his car to try to figure out why it was misfiring. They couldn't figure it out and said they needed more time with it. I fixed it in 10 min. LOL.

Just noticed you're in Wylie. I'm in Sachse. You going to the RCK meet?

Give them a few minutes. Highway punch Warm idle

Did something VERY similar years ago on my SS. Hell that type of set up is even called the "SUX2BU ram air" set up over on LS1Tech. Lots of people laughed but i laughed last when i swapped my fast toys ram air for this ram air. I added about 120 lbs in rollbar, re installed the A/C ands still dropped a tenth and gained 1 mph.

Jeez who peed in your cheerios?

I didn't mean check book racer as an insult. Some people don't like to get dirty and just pay someone to do all their mods for them. I prefer to do everything myself and as cheap as possible so i can spend the cash on other mods. My truck is tuned for the fans to come on sooner ans i know all about closed loop, and an engine's best operating temperature. What you have to understand is I'm in Texas and have a 6,000 lb SUV with a 3200 stall that see's 90% stop and go traffic with the A/C blasting on max at all times. So the 95* air first goes through my tranny cooler (which is working overtime with this stall, got my 40k on the way), then gets heated even more gouing through the condenser and my radiator also has the two coolers in it on either tank (primary tranny cooler on passenger side and the oil cooler on the drivder's side). So my radiator see's ALOT of heat. With a modded stock thermostat (should be equivilent to about a 180* thermostat) ny temps were at 210* at night. With no thermostat they are at 200* in the middle of the day and about 190* at night. I know that taking out the thermostat may over cool the engine, but that is not a problem in my case. I constantly have my Tech 2 hooked up to it monitering my IAT's, engine and tranny temps. So i really do know what i'm doing. And i really don't mean to sound like an ass, or anything. I just like gettting into debates about car stuff.

Just driving around with a PT3200 stall Open cut outs Closed cut outs

It's not stretched, it just didn't have a bend there. So it looks funny. I'm gonna twist it a little so it doesn't look so funny. I've been working on these motors for about 10 years so i know what I'm doing. BTW that's not how a thermostat works. A thermostat keeps coolant from circulating through the radiator until it gets up to a certain temp. then the thermostat begins to slowly opens to start circulating coolant through the radiator. The hotter the motor gets the farther the thermostat opens. When the motor cools off the thermostat closes a bit to reduce the flow of coolant through the radiator. Yes, the water pump neck can be turned, but not angled down without cutting and welding. i've done this to a few truck water pumps to put in F bodies. I don't care what my truck looks like under the hood. If painting my motor pink and putting dog poop all over it would make my truck faster then that's what I'd do. I'm a do it yourself budget racer, anybody can be a check book racer. Just though i would share my ideas.

Oh i also repositioned the neck on my water pump because the radiator hose was on the bottom of my intake tube, which would heat it up. Also went ahead and took out my thermostat today and it's running quite a bit cooler, so my IAT's might have come down even more.

So i installed this $60 Ebay no name intake a few months ago. CAI And i always wanted to seal it off from the engine bay, just never got around to it. Well my buddy was tuning it and told me if i got my IAT's down he could add a little more timing (idling for 20 minutes or so in the Texas heat with the A/C on full blast my IAT's were at 135*). So he suggested i seal off the air box. I did one better and made a crappy little scoop that gets fresh air from under the front bumper. Well i tried the idle for 20 min with A/C blasting test (outside temp was about the same) and my IAT's came down to about 115*. Even better is once i start moving they drop down to outside temp in a few seconds. Before at a stop light they would climb from 90* to about 117* then very slowly drop back down when i started moving. Now they climb from 90* to about 95* and drop back down to 90* in about 4 seconds after i start moving. I know it looks goofy but i don't care, it works. All i used was some waxed cardboard i had laying around, flashing tape (you use this stuff to seal around doors and windows in your house) and some thermal barrier stuff. Spent like $20 total.

Oh ok, that explains it. You need to let that motor breath man!

So this was in a 408 RCSB Silverado?

Updated my sig with all my mods.

Best before with only a tune and no cats was R/T-----.069 60'------2.343 330'-----6.601 MPH-----54.44 1/8------10.051 MPH-----70.29 Best at the cruise was R/T-----.249 60'------2.046 330'-----5.824 MPH-----60.01 1/8------8.976 MPH-----77.16 Only got three runs in before i had to leave.

Kinda. Coulda gotten it done in one day, but i'm married.

So i was pretty nervous since i haven't tore into an auto tranny since my ATI days about 9 years ago, so i was triple checking everything i did. Didn't wanna start it up and the thing not move or make some crazy grinding noise and lock up. Installed a Yank PT3200 Transgo hd-2 shift kit, aluminum forward accumulator piston, aluminum 1-2 accumulator piston, Transgo seperator plate, Corvette 2nd gear servo, Sonnax Billet 4th gear servo, new filter and pan gasket. Truck actually drives VERY well. Taking off from a light only went up a few hundred rpm's. Backing up into the driveway feels funny. Now just waiting on my valve springs.