beingblueeyes

This is how I installed a Hayden 678 trans cooler into a 04 silverado rcsb 5.3 Fallow at your own risk, I take no responsibility for damages or deaths or anything ells Back round: I’m not planning on doing a ton of toeing, maybe 1 or 2 times a year of a wood chipper or other light stuff and a little racing now and again but heat dose kill auto trans and I want my 4l60e to last as long as it can so a better/lager atf cooler is in order. The Hayden 678 is about 2 times the size of the stock cooler Total cash invested: Around 60$ from summit racing Tools and things needed: Smallish flat head screw driver Cutoff wheel or a hack saw Crows foot std. Wrench set or a adjustable wrench 10mm socket and driver Tin snips or a razor blade 3 plastic ziplock bags 1 or 2 zipties Time required: Took me 30 minutes Let’s get started 1: take off the upper radiator cowling between the grill of the truck and the radiator support. This is done by removing the plastic hold downs with your smallish flat head screw driver. Set aside and put plastic hold downs in one of the ziplock bags 2: remove front gill, it is held on by 6 metal snaps (for lack of a better word) 2 at the top that you can see after you remove the upper radiator cowling, 2 at the end of the long chrome plastic peace that has the emblem on it right below the head lights and 2 at the bottom of the grill. Set aside 3: remove the stock atf cooler by un-screwing the inlet and outlet fittings using your Crows foot std. Wrench set or an adjustable wrench. Then take your Smallish flat head screw driver and carefully/gently pry out on the tabs (one per side) on the side of the stock cooler mount the hold the cooler in place and remove the stock cooler 4: remove hood latch using the 10mm socket and driver and move to the side 5: using the Smallish flat head screw driver take the c clips out of the stock atf cooler fittings and pull the fittings off 6: take the 2 ziplock bags you have left and use them to cover the atf lines so plastic shards from the next part doesn’t contaminate them 7: using the Cutoff wheel or a hack saw cut the webbing out of the bottom of the stock cooler support 8: insert the Hayden 678 cooler into the stock location and push it down past were the waffling you just cut out was 9: reinstall hood latch to check for clearance at the top of the cooler and move the cooler down or up depending on how much or how little clearance you have. The two tabs on the stock cooler mount will hold the cooler in place but a ziptie from the top of the cooler to the hood latch will prevent it from going down any due to excessive vibrations 10: Cut hose that comes with the Hayden 678 trans cooler kit with Tin snips or a razor blade put and 2 of the worm drive clamps that come with the kit on each line and attach the lines to the Hayden 678 trans cooler and to the stock cooler lines 11: tighten down worm drive clamps 12: start and check for leaks and replace the atf the might have drained out of the oem cooler 13: reassemble front of truck I recalled this from memory so forgive me if my descriptions are not 100%. I will try to foot any questions if anyone has any

bump for pics and more info on diode dam i feel stupid, the computer i was on didnt show the pics....

do they fit a 5.3, also can you post pics of the hole thing