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90zxdriver

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Posts posted by 90zxdriver

  1. OEM brakes on my 03 were horrible, especially under emergency braking situations. The original breaks are tiny on the early model Silverado with SS being no exception which is GM put bigger breaks on the 05+. The vacuum booster setup is horrid. I upgraded to the hydroboost system and it was 100% improvement. The brakes bite so much harder (hydroboost has more clamping force). I then did the Z06 conversion with SS lines and this thing will stop like a sports car now.

  2. About 6 months ago, while putting my foot into the gas pedal, as I merged onto the highway, my CEL light came on and threw a MAF code. I toof the MAF out, sprayed it with the cleaner, checked the connection and cleaned/greased my K&N filter. I then puled the negative battery cable for the night and the CEL went away. Well, today, same thing while getting on the highway and the same CEL code. I'll try cleaning it again but does this mean it's time of a new MAF or something else I can check?

  3. I vaguely recall reading something awhile ago about there being a voltage issue with the DRL circuit. That is why the majority of trucks (Silverado, Sierra, escalade, Tahoe, Yukon, Avalanche, ect) have at least the driver side DRL burnt out or both sides not functioning. I know I replace the DRL bulks a lot more frequently than any other bulb in this truck. Heck, most of my bulbs are original. Maybe that is why your led ones are frying?

  4. I went with all OEM stuff when I changed out plugs/wires. Note, bring your truck to the dealer to verify which plug wires you need. There are two sets with different lengths and its depends on what coil packs are installed on your truck. Year or vin doesn't matter, you actually have to look at and verify the coil pack. Ask me how I know...

     

    I figured if the original stuff lasted 100k miles, why mess with what is proven. Also agree with replacing all fluids and filters. Truck should be ready for another 100k.

     

    Also, as mentioned above. If belts/tensioner are original, might want to inspect/replace those while your under the hood.

  5. I know a while back someone on here had mentioned there transmission cooler failed in their rad and caused the milk shake effect in their coolant, what if you eliminated the rad completely and installed an external tranny cooler instead, would this be advisable ? Just looking for input or if someone has done this already.

    That was me. Ended up replacing the entire cooling system. Adding a new external cooler is next on the list although my transmission recommended adding a larger capacity plan saying it will give me lower operating temps than a larger cooler will.

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