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Ahhh yessss!!! Thank you for that sir! I shall relocate the existing fan to one side and add a second fan... its funny because before the accident i had an s-blade fan on there (had no problems with temp) and it seems theyve replaced it with a straight blade fan. Buying an extra fan is alot cheaper than replacing a water pump though so ill do that and hopefully problem solved... update after pay day. Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Theres no coolant on the ground where i park and my coolant level has been at the exact same spot since i replaced the tstat.... my oils not milky either. Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk Edit: could it just be a bad coolant temp sensor? Maybe this was damaged in the accident. Anyone know where the sensors located? Ill search and see if i find anything on it.

Did you even read my post?? I changed the tstat already. I have a scanguage2 thats connected to my obd port so it pulls the temp straight from the pcm so i know my temp is correct. Its not hot outside its quite cool like i said in my post... jeezus man could you read the post before replying to it please?? Anyone else? Also if my water pump was bad itd be leaking and/or making noise right? So is it safe to say its not the water pump if its not doing either of those things?? How else could i test the pump to be sure its good? Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Lately my trucks been running a little hot... the temp has been getting up into the 220-240 range. I check coolant level, it was good. Checked for leaks. None found. Gave the whole coolant system a once over checking for kinked hoses etc. My truck was just in a front end collision but nothing was damaged past the bumper, grill, and headlights. Then i felt the upper radiator hose... burning hot. The lower radiator hose that runs to the tstat was a little cooler... shouldnt they be pretty much the same temp?? I checked my efan to make sure it was moving air the right way because they replaced this. When they did repairs because the force of the impact jarred it loose and it broke (it was held on with those zip tie type things that go through the radiator fins) So not knowing what else to do i changed the tstat and put in a brand new 160degree. Changed the coolant. I followed the usual proceedure for this task and its still running hot... if im driving down the road it runs around 185-190 and when im idlin (ac off) it heats up to 220-240. The air temp here lately has been around 40-60 so its not hot outside... i have no idea what could be wrong. Everything i know to check ive checked it and everything seems fine but temps are still way too high. I did feel the hoses and i cant really tell if coolants flowing or not. My coolant level doesnt seem to change and it doesnt look like the coolant in the reservoir is moving at all... is this a problem?? Any help would be greatly appreciated. And for those who will surely suggest using the search... i did and found a few things about airlocks but im sure i can rule that out since i drained and refilled the coolant when i swapped stats. Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Well i used the diode method and connected the lows to the highs and then the drls to the lows that way when my lowbeams are on my drls are on and when my highbeams are on my lows and drls are on... looks pretty sick imo!! But they dont blink... i decided not to try and hook them in with the blinkers just for the sake of simplicity. Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Thanks for all the compliments... and for those of you dont like it f**k off!! Just kiddin... i never in my lufe saw one of those ford thingamajuggers till yesterday and i saw a red one here on ft lewis. Pissed me off so bad i wanted to take a can of flat tan spraypaint (ive got some in my tool box) and paint his whole truck with it!! I still love my paint. And sometime later on ill be carrying the scheme up the hood. Most likely summer 2012. Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

I actually have that pic printed out in my electrical box... i didnt realuze i had to use blinker sockets but i found them at autozone for like 9$. I already replaced the passenger side one cuz when my truck got wrecked it ripped out one of the wires so ill go down in a few days and get the other one. I got the diodes yesterday. What im gonna do it just connect the 85 on the highs to the 85 on the lows using the diode trick, then connect the 85 on the lows to the 85 on the drls and ill play around a bit to figure out which leg of the blinker relay will make the drls blink also... should be the 85 on those also right??? Ill post some pics and let yall know what i did once im done and have everything working properly. What would be really cool is if i could get the drl to come on then the blinker everytime i switch on the turn signal sorta like the newer mustangs do with the 3 tail lights. Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

THANK YOU THANK YOU AAAAAAANNNNNDDDD THANK YOU!!! If anyone has some photoshop skills itd be interesting to see what this paint scheme would look like on a blue ss and a black ss (the go-tee on the black could be red!)

im going to do something custom with the grill, cant tell yet cuz i want to be the first one to do it just like the go-tee!!! thanks for the compliments though yall!!!

Recently i was driving down the interstate when some dumb ass chick decided she wanted to save gas an have me push her along. she entered the interstate onto lane one, i moved over to lane two from lane one because she was going slower and i didnt feel like slowing down, then like i said before, i guess she wanted to save some gas because she came on over into lane two about 5 feet in front of me and i didnt even have time to tap the brakes before my front was all up in her rear. i thought i was gonna be screwed because normally when you rear-end someone youre at fault. luckily there was a WASP (washington state patrol) on the other side of the interstate who saw the whole thing. her insurance assumed liability and i took my truck to the shop. the shop owner called me and asked me to send him a picture of what the front end looked like before the accident so he could purchase the correct bumper cover for me and i guess i may have sent him the worng picture!!! I had a buddy from xr-underground.com (a toyota x-runner forum) do a photoshop for me when i first got my ss. heres what happens when photoshop comes to life: Photoshop: The Real Deal!!

I know there are tons of topics about making the drls come on with the headlights and theres one or two about having them come on with the turn signals but i cant seem to put the info together in order to do what im trying to do. nothing is very sonclusive. heres what i want to happen 1) I want my DRLs to come on when my headlights are on.... 2) i also want them to flash in unison with my turn signals/4-ways. 3) and id like to have all four headlights on when my high beams are on the only way i can think to do this is to use the diode trick to connect the drl relay to the turn signal relay and the headlight relay. and connect the high beam relay to the low beam relay. i dont really know enough about this kind of thing to be able to do it without consulting the community here so yall feel free to chime in and let me know how this should be done... also what is the purpose of adding the diode in between the connections? is this so the electricity will only flow one way? i know thats a noob question but like i said, dont know enough to do this on my own. and if anyone has pictures of this please post them so i can print them out and take them outside when i put everything together... thanks in advace yall Chris

might look cool over the rear wheels similar to the dodge daytona trucks only you wont have that rediculous wing!!!

Well it brings me some relief knowing such knowlegeable folks had the same problem as I have. You are exactly right mr p, the 2nd intermediate servo was canted inside of the bore due to my own inexperience. I too was not able to seat the semi-circular retaining ring around the cover but instead of corrosion being the issue, clearance was the issue. I thought I had the ring in evenly all the way around in the groove when in all actuality it was slight out of line on the top. When I got the truck back to the shop to do a teardown/reassembly and "check my answers" so to speak, I had everything out from the separator plate to the pan and when I was attempting to remove the vette servo and found it impossible with the tranny in the truck. I knew at that moment I had phucked up and the only answer was to take it to a professional. The transmission shop (meridian transmission in puyallup wa, very good guys they really hooked it up) confirmed what I had thought and what you guys have said. When the servo gets cocked in the bore like that it digs in because the case is so precise and rather soft, and when its cocked while the piston is depressed or applying it engages bands when they shouldnt be and burns up clutches, pumps, bands, scars the drum, and ultimately causes the tranny to need a rebuild. Gears affected be this are 3rd, 4th, and reverse. In conclusion, after tearing the tranny down completely they decided that I could either purchase a new/rebuilt transmission or have them rebuild it for around 2,500$!!! I told them to rebuild it. The rebuild includes a 2400-2600 stall the re-installation of my shift kit (inluding the clutch drag fix kit that goes inside the drum) polished case and valvebody, what the owner of the shop calls performance clutches and bands (kevlar or teflon I dont remember) as well as front diff fluid change with "performance" gear lube and b&m trick shift tranny fluid! The owner had an sss he bought in 03 and sold in 05 so he sorta knew how I feel about my truck and knew by looking at the time/money ive put into my vehicle that I would want those things. The best part of it all, he gave me the performance parts at cost and gave 10% military discount! Anyway, ive already written a damn book on this topuc so ill end by saying this WHEN INTALLING YOUR OWN SHIFT KIT ONE OR BOTH OF THESE TWO THINGS MUST BE DONE 1) REMOVE THE TRANNY SO YOU CAN ACTUALLY INSURE THAT LITTLE RING AROUND THE SERVO HOUSING IS SEATED PROPERLY OR 2) HAVE A BENT SCREWDRIVER OR SOME OTHER DEVICE TO ALLOW YOU TO APPLY PRESSURE TO THE RING ALL THE WAY AROUND. DO NOT GET LAZY HERE FOLKS IT WILL COST YOU SOME MONEY AND SOME PRECIOUS TIME! I feel that transgo should add this disclaimer to there instructions and video lol! Thanks folks! Sent from my Samsung Vibrant using Tapatalk

Well I got the truck back in the shop and I took the valvebody out for cleaning and teardown, I went to remove the vette servo out to make sure it was installed correctly and I got the cover, gold rings, eclip, spring, washer out but I cant get the piston out. It wont turn wiggle or budge at all.... My questions are could that be my problem? And how the hell do I get it out? Has anyone else had this problem? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! I really need some help on this! Sent from my Samsung Vibrant using Tapatalk

Installed my transgo shift kit today, followed all instructions to the letter. Now I dont have overdrive, drive, or 3rd gear. Please call me if you can offer advice or you can at least give me the number to someone who can help. 580 919 6955 Sent from my Samsung Vibrant using Tapatalk