codyruane

Well at the beginning and end of every shift we do we have to calibrate our devices using tuning forks (they work off of vibration) which is enough for the courts. On top of that, the radar is also matched to our speedometers, Computer GPS, and on top of that our watchguard video system GPS. The computer, watchguard, speedo, and radar are 4 different speed devices that are all at the exact same speed, those matched with the calibration check and you are SOL every time. It is hard to compare a Tom Tom or Garmin to multi-thousand dollar systems built into the cars. Hate to say it but he was much more likely to be spot on. Many people have a tendency to tap their brakes just before looking down (subconsiously) and see a reduced speed from what is "trapped". I can explain further through PM if you want but unfortunately it was most likely either you or the truck that was off, not the Troop. Sorry bro.

Too funny man. That is my partner! I told you to be careful on my highways! anything 10 - 19 mph over is only 40 bucks but the killer is the 3 points on your license. Talk to the judge about attending an alive at 25 program. Usually they will dismiss the ticket if you attend and pass the course, it is one day for 4 hours. I used to teach it til I got over here to Afghanistan. That sucks, but it is kinda funny. Seriously though, check out that class if they let you.

I am located at Camp Leatherneck which is also connected to Camp Bastion, 30 minute flight south west from Kandahar

Welcome to the site. Nice lookin SS and should be fun to start moddin when you get home. I am currently in Afghanistan too - Leatherneck, but I have only been here about 2 months, still have 10 more to go. Again welcome and congrats on the purchase.

I am not sure about Texas, as it does not specify placement in that post. I work in Montana and the Montana Code Annotated specifically states that front and rear plates are required and must be firmly affixed to the exterior of the vehicle. I stop many people on it but have never written a citation for that offense yet, more or less it led to arrests for other offenses. Just read a little further into the codes as it may be explained further elsewhere or just stop at the local cop shop and ask, I have tons of people do that at my office. Saves a lot of headache guessing yourself and risking the chance of getting stopped later.

I am having the same issue on the drivers side. The front edge of the lower dooe cladding rubs against the fender causing warping and chipping. I have gotten estimates but am being told the cladding piece is over 500 bucks! I found one on saeparts.com but it is for RH, can't seem to find the LH anywhere. So hopefully a reasonable solution can be figured out soon. Good luck on your end!

Been in the Army for 8.5 years now, E-5 (waiting on a slot to open to promote to E-6) Reserves the entire time with a 15 month deployment to Iraq in 2005-2006, and heading to Afghanistan starting this Saturday for 400 days. I am both 88M and 88N, transportation - essentially an operator and dispatcher. Plan on being a lifer for the benefits, only 11 years to go.

You get home about the same time I get over to the hell hole there, I hope my year's trip is as successful as yours. Stay safe your last month! It should be fun coming home to your truck and doing everything you have missed.

A Chevy engine in a Ford is blasphemy. It would be like putting a 5.0 into a Corvette! Made me sick to see a Skyline motor in a Mustang during Tokyo Drift.

First off changed my name from hi-line-ss due to not living on the hi-line of Montana anymore. Figured it was appropriate. I know that many on this site are die hard Chevy fans but I love all vehicles. I have attached my main project, a 1965 Mustang Coupe, that I have rescued from a junk yard about a decade ago. I had it painted black with silver stripes (yup I am a Raiders fan), took out the 289 and put in a 347 stroker in which I expect 450 to 475 N/A horsepower at the flywheel (I can share some specific specs later if anyone wishes) and also have a Paxton SC waiting til after fire up and break-in. I put in subframe connectors, polygraphite suspension, thicker front/rear sway bars, put in 3.89 Richmond gearing in the rear, with a Borg Warner T10 4 speed. I can only build for so long or put a limited amount of money into it as my wife does not view the project as a financial priority (hence over 10 years now). The yellow car in my back is my old man's. It is a 1970 Torino Cobra that he bought from the factory new in 1970. It has 31000 original miles. It is well equipped with the 429 Super Cobra Jet, Ram Air, and Drag Pack. we had the engine built several years ago and it dyno'd at 598 HP N/A at the flywheel. I wish I had the paperwork on it but he has it with him in South Dakota where he resides. I just keep his car in my garage! ;-) Just thought I would share my pics and progress...enjoy (had to make a photobucket account as my pics were too big) http://photobucket.com/gymratss

Norcal sold me my Belltech's and I couldn't be happier. Hoping to save some cash after my brake purchase to get the swaybar kits and a stall. My truck is currently at stock height and I like it that way.

So I installed my new Belltech Street Performance shocks on a day that finally hit above 60 degrees, and they went in very well. Two of the old shock bushings were torn up pretty bad, and the feel of the new shocks is outstanding. The is no more excessive bounce or roll. However, while having all of my tires removed I checked the brakes. The rears are tore up! The rotors literally have tons of scratches and even small chunks of metal missing. The pads are worn down to virtually nothing, I am surpirsed I could stop at all, and also surprised I never heard any grinding noise. I am looking into R1 and Hawk HPS pads. Noise and dust aren't an issue, just want good stopping power without destroying my bank account. Guess the stall has to wait another few months.

Actually Butte does not use Magnesium Chloride. Butte and the rest of Montana uses a non-corrosion inhibited rock salt (sodium chloride). The difference is that Magnesium Chloride and Calcium Chloride are highly soluble in water compared to rock salt creating a "spray" of corrosion under the vehicle in a way that rock salt does not. Rock salt of course is still a corrosive material but is far less intrusive than that of the other options. I have yet to have any type of rust or pitting on my vehicles. Just need to keep them clean regardless. I posted a link below for those in Montana to show the Montana Department of Transportation current practices of winter maintenance. http://www.mdt.mt.gov/publications/docs/brochures/winter_maint/wintmaint_whitepaper.pdf

Well the one good thing about Montana is that salt (magnesium chloride) is not used on the roads, so rust and pitting usually aren't an issue if you keep your wheels clean. A ton of dirt is usually used but the roads remain fairly icy. Being all wheel drive helps a ton, but nice street tires, although nice for dry and wet conditions, are minimal for ice and snow. I still have the Falken Ziex on my truck from all winter long and it faired really well, and when I finally muster enough money to do a wheel tire combo, I am really liking the Nitto's and expect them to do better than the Falken's by far. Just make sure you have enough tread. Siping really helps but doesn't look very good on street tires. But the chrome shouldn't be an issue here as long as you wash them off every few weeks.

Well I used a clay bar, a finishing compound, and a buffed like crazy. When all was said and done it actually came out and looked great, the words are no more (hopefully soon to be the same of the dicks that did this). I appreciate the quick responses and the help. You guys never fail to amaze. Thanks again. I am just glad I did't have to sand or go to an extreme to save my baby.