holdenhunt

Take it from me personally. Paying 400-$500 for a header install is rediculous. With a a few basic tools and a few hours to spare there is no reason why you cannot do the install yourself. Get in touch with a buddy that has a wire welder and maybe he can weld up the cats to the headers for you if he is a better welder than you. I have personally went with high flow cats and by deleting the cats altogether. I have a g-tech and I make runs after doing every individual mod and running no cats cut off 2 tenths of my quarter mile run, the high flow cats made no difference. I personally would not install the cats and just go with a good tune and you will be fine.

I am running that cam in a 5.3L truck. It is a good cam in that you dont loose any low end torque with that smaller duration and pulls well for a smaller cam. They have it in a low and high lift version, I would definitely recommend going with the higher lift version because it is a small enough cam as it is and Im sure you would wish you were running the higher lift version soon after if you went with the smaller one. Also I did springs and pushrods with it to. Hope this helps

What exactly is DEI?

Yea I can see why this wouldnt be such a good idea after all but it still sounds cool lol. Does anyone know of a way to rig up a system that would produce similar gains as to supercharging?

Ok guys I know this may be the stupidest idea ever put on this site but I just have to have some opinions. I was thinking about rigging up a 20 or 30 pound air bottle and filling it to 100 psi or so and then attaching a regulator in front of a ball valve (hand valve) where it would be coming out of the tank. Picture this setup being inside the cab while taking a long ass air hose and running it from the bottle through the firewall and plumb in a nozzle to the air intake tube directly in front of the throttle body. In theory whenever you manually crack open the valve from inside the cab you have instant compressed air being forced into the engine and you would be able to regulate the psi by having the regulator to play with. I know most of you are probably laughing after reading this but is it at least possible? I just think it would be so cool and redneck as hell if this produced the same results as a blower.

Will these injectors work with boost or are they for NA only?

Ok guys so my question pertains to a 5.3L vortec, with that being said I am wanting to make a move soon on either getting some cyliner head work or just different heads altogether. The truck is an 05 regular cab 2WD and it currently has the 862 heads on it. Ive spoke to a very reputable builder in my area and he recommends staying with the 862 heads and doing what he calls a bowl job and mill them down slightly, he claims i shoulld see around 40-50 horse gain with these heads along with my current mods. The quote for the head work is around $700. I already have a 212/218 high lift 111 lsa cam, full exhaust/no cats,intake and a tune. My question is, is this worth the money or would I be better off using a different head. Now I do know that there are better aftermarket heads out there but Im not looking to spend $2500 or so either. Im wanting to stay with a factory GM head for the money, just need to know my options. Im not wanting to spend over $1000 so Im not looking for people to tell me to change the cam and heads etc. Just looking at what is best for the money with my current setup.This truck is my daily driver and I plan on keeping it N/A. Any advice is much appreciated.

I had one on my truck before I changed to Nelson. A slight increase in mpg and power with the Bullydog but nothing compared to a custom tune.

The thing is though that it is already tuned for the converter.

I meant it locks up at 45 mph right after it shifts into OD and that is if I very slowly accelerate, if I really step on it it doesnt shift into OD until much later. Sorry for the confusion.

Ok guys so I had my tranny built about a month ago and when it was in the shop I also had them install a 3000 PTC 10" single disk converter. The first few weeks the truck ran like it had a big stall in and i mean it would rev up to 3000 before even beginning to move at all. During the past week the converter acts completely different as in it seems to have broken in and it doesnt require as many rpms to get the truck rolling and it is shifting at a lower rpm and also cruising at lower rpms. I do like that the converter has a more mellow feel to it now but it has started to stall out occasionally when i will slow down and pull up to the stoplight the rpms will surge down low like 300-400 briefly and then die, then when i restart it and put it in gear it will act fine again. So I dont know if it would be the tuning or converter that is causing this but I would like to know because it is a pain in the ass. The truck is tuned by Nelson and it goes into lockup at about 45 mph if that helps.

I have the same cam and would also like to know if this combo will work

The truck is tuned by Nelson and im having it rebuilt because I have noticed that the slipping has been getting more obvious and it often holds the shift points out too long. Im not completely sure of all the parts that will be used in the build but I do recall that he mentioned the upgraded sun shell, input sprag, kevlar clutches, vette servos, and a shift kit and this is only a few of the things he mentioned I just cant remember what all else. And the stall is a PTC, I called him back just to make sure. Thanks for the help

So I dropped off my truck today at a tranny specialist and they are gona build my tranny and install a PTC converter. He told me it would stall somewhere between 2600-3000 but I wont know for sure until its installed. Also it is going to be a 10" single clutch unit. My question is my current tune was set up to run my 222/224 cam on the stock converter, and am currently running no torque management. With the new combo is it necessary to retune, I do not want to if it is not necessary, but if I will be risking the life of the tranny for some reason I need to know. Also, has anyone ever used a PTC converter? I was told that they are a great converter and have read of many people running them on forums. Thanks

Well i have plenty of options to consider now! Thanks for the help im sure it wont be the last time I need to ask.

I dont have a stall yet but im awaiting funds to build a tranny and do the stall all at once so thats next on the list, i also dont have the injectors i was just wondering if they would be ideal, and as far as doing the heads what would be a good choice with this cam? And would it be worth the dough to port and polish the stock ones?

Ok so i see i misdefined full boltons, I have longtube headers and full exhaust, BBK 80mm tb, ram air intake, and a160 t-stat. And if im not gaining more hp by swapping out these injectors then i guess I may have asked the wrong question. I am looking for the next cheapest way to add more hp while also adding more room to grow on for future mods. I know the common weight shaving strategies but dont want to do any of that I want my truck to be practical. And i plan on keeping the truck NA. Thanks for the help!

Ok guys so I recently did a cam swap using a 222/224 on a 112lsa. The setup is currently running fine but I am wondering if upgrading my injectors to slightly bigger ones is the right next move. I have full boltons and also the BBK 80mm tb, will the 8.1 injectors be sufficient? I dont want to get to radical or expensive on the price because I plan on staying NA and the only other changes I might have in the future would be a better set of heads. And will the stock fuel pump be sufficient with an injector change alone? I am also curious as to how much hp I will gain with these injectors.

Well I found the culprit, at least on the engine temp anyways.I mistakeingly purchased Dexcool that was not already mixed 50/50 and it was just straight antifreeze. So i drained and refilled the radiator to a 50/50 mix and instantly my temperature dropped back down to normal within 175-180. I just hope that by running it for 3 days before i found the problem did not damage my cooling system. As for the transmission Im just gona slap a Trucool 40k in it and be done with it.

Ok guys so tomorow the track opens up and I am going to run the SS for the first time. I recently did a cam swap, a 222/224 and had it tuned to run on the stock converter. I know my launches are gona suck but what is the best way to maximize what I already have? What would be the best way to launch?

Yes I had it retuned already and the cooler lines are close to the header but not touching id say it has about an inch of clearance.

Ok I just finished a cam swap three days ago. Since then Ive noticed that my engine coolant temp is peaking around 210 at times and this is with a 160 thermostat. Before the swap the hottest temp I would ever see is 190. I have idled the truck up to normal operating temp and then opened the coolant resevoir in hopes of getting air out of the system which did not help. Whats going on? Also since I installed headers 3 weeks ago Ive noticed that my tranny is running hotter close to 200 degrees but just shy. I even wrapped the tranny cooler lines with the high temp rubber houses included in the pacesetter kit. Do any of you have similar problems? Is this normal for having headers and a cam or what?

So I just received a set of blue ls6 springs from TSP to go along with my new cam 222/224 .566/.568 .I know that there is blue and yellow springs but is there a difference? I want to make sure I dont get valve float with too soft of a spring.

Im about to order this cam along with springs but I have heard both yes and no as far as needing to go with a hardened pushrod. Someone please tell me if it is really necessary or not, and if so what length do I need? Im using yellow LS6 springs.

Im looking for this cam along with springs and pushrods. If anyone has this and is willing to sell let me know.