Atomic

The same will be the same, ist just a billet piece instead of cast or forged. As a side note, I dont really think its needed unless you plan on locking the converter under power, which I also dont recommend.

The one on the rear? Maybe from the bottom. It will be a bitch with 4wd/awd though. You can rent a puller for free from autozone.

The position will affect ride as well as preload. Changing the angle of the bars changes the "instant center" of the suspension setup. This all has to deal with where the force is applied from the tire through the car. The steeper the angle towards the front the harder the suspension will "hit the tire". The shallower the angle, the slower it will hit the tire. idealy you want the force applied from the tire to the ground to travel in a line that goes exactly through the center of gravity of the car. If the line is above the CG you will spin the tires before you should, if it is below you will pick the front end up. Since I race a 4wd (AWD is the same), you want to plant the rear as hard as possible to let the front tires do some work, which is why I have mine set the way I do. The risk with hitting it too hard is the tire will spin easier, but you dont waste as much energy in compressing the suspension. With it too shallow you can leave some power on the table. Its a fine balance obviously. The settings may differ side to side as well since the engine rotates to plant the back right tire harder than the left side (same reason it will want to pick up the front left tire first).

I keep mine in track position because im lazy...bottom hole in the back, top hole in the front (most aggressive). I may as well not even have rear suspension when they are preloaded lol

I have a 28" tall tire and I want to say the fender straight up from the center of the wheel is 32". I will double check this evening. CV angles are slightly negative.

Cool! Make sure to refer to the "install" pdf I posted in the first post, it should help out a lot.

Coming your way!

Yea I think everyone so far has used QA1, but others should work since they are all about the same size. The important part is 1/2" ID hole for the mount, and 2.5" springs. I just took mine off this weekend after ~2200 miles for inspection and they look perfect.

PM sent!

I had mine aligned at a local shop. I told them it was modified but once they got it on the lift they laughed at said no kidding lol. There is still room to get to the camber adjustment nuts/bolts so it aligns just like stock. The first tech didnt want to do it, but another more adventurous tech did it just fine.

So anyone want to give it a shot? I really think you guys that are lowered and strapped on the front end will really like it.

powerband probably 2400-7000, youll want a 3000 stall torque converter and valve springs rated to at least .650 lift

Thank guys, im shooting for a 5.99 this season if I ever find time to make some changes. Might have to put it on a diet to get there, weighs right at 5000lb with me in it right now, could loose a couple hundred pretty easy. It rides suprising well too, except when I have the traction bars in the rear turned up. Im thinking about making a coilover type setup for the rear.

I think aftermarket knuckles will work, but am not positive. I dont see any reason why they wouldnt. Heres a video I have launching at a track. Cant remember what time I ran but I usually run in the 6.5 range with around a 1.4x 60ft time. It spins the front about 50ft out which is why its a little squirely, but is extremely controlled coming back in. Heres one at a "street" race event,

My setup certainly works a lot better with coilovers, even when I had limiting straps on the front with the tbars. The entire tbar setup (shocks, keys, bars, crossmember, and bolts) is about 71lb. My coilover stuff weighs about 30 pounds, so there is some weight savings there.

The 2wd tahoe guys have done this since they still use a torsion bar setup. I imagine the truck LCA is the same as the tahoe LCA since they are both torsion bar setups. If you can post a picture of your LCA I can say for sure, but am 98% sure it will work.

No, it only works with factory LCA. With that said, you could probably achieve the same amount of drop with coilovers and the factory LCA as you could with tbars and the DJM arm. I have looked at the DJM arm and if you have the skills to reinforce the shock attachment area then you may be able to get that LCA to work for the purpose of coilovers.

Hey guys, I am mainly on performancetrucks.net so youll have to excuse my low post count here, but I thought some of you guys would be interested in the brackets I make to convert 99-06 4wd trucks and suvs to front coilovers. The whole thing is a bolt on deal just requiring a little trimming in one spot. I think a couple of guys that come here have tried it so far. This is to bring the conversation to this forum since I know a lot of your AWD SSS guys probably want something better than messing with strapping down the front end. I attached a write up I did ton this swap in a PDF and also an installation guide I made. I also added the spreadsheet I made that helps in picking out what shock and springs you need. The "main measurement" is from the middle of the lower shock bolt to the top of the frame shock perch with the truck at the ride height you want. Let me know if there are any questions! You can download them here: PDF Explaining the swap: http://www.mediafire.com/view/e19jgdo2yaesia7/coilovers_about_v13.pdf PDF Explaining the installation process: http://www.mediafire.com/view/1xpc1d63xfw95fw/coilovers_install_v13.pdf Edit: Updated PDFs and added latest spreadsheet Shock-Springv5.zip

Is the front diff not different between the AWD and 4wd trucks?

Bump, still have this

Sold

Tuscaloosa, AL

I figured I would put this up for sale. Its my full exhaust from downpipe back to the tip. A nice stainless 4" v band welded on to the end. It starts right after the trans crossmember and exits behind the passenger corner. All pipe is stainless 4" and use mandrel bends. Mufflers are magnaflow 14153 (5x8 oval x14) and 14163 (6" round 14" long), and the tip is a 5" stainless slant. This is a direct fit on a nbs ext cab or crew cab (dunno about the super short bed guys), would need to be shorted for a regular cab. Way too long to ship this thing but I can meet you halfway within reason of Tuscaloosa, AL. Only about 200 miles on the mufflers. I didnt have it long enough to get a sound clip but it was moderately aggressive but very tame at highway speed. This is a direct bolt on for you turbo guys, but can be made to work with anything with a flowmaster merge pipe or similiar. SOLD

sent you a pm

Thanks, the downpipe is actually 4", but that should be more than adequate. This is priced at basically $500 off a brand new kit so I can move it, and the hot side is already wrapped for you!